Bachmann Ez-Track Compatibility

[RkyGriz]

Hi all. I am normally a G Scale railroader, but I have recently started buying and running HO Scale as well. A couple of years ago, I bought a used Bachmann DeWitt Clinton set in good condition at a thrift store for the incredible price of $9.99. It was complete with a little damage to the tender cage, but it otherwise runs like a little  champ. So, after finding and buying this set, I also added an additional 6 straight tracks and now I have a small HO Scale track. Here's my problem:
I have been buying vintage HO Scale locomotives and rolling stock on Ebay. All of which has been from other manufacturers. All have ran well with no problems until this latest purchase. I recently bought a 4-6-0 Rogers HO Scale (Sierra Railway #3) locomotive from the manufacturer who's' name starts with a T and ends with an O. While it runs extremely well under static test with lots of power (and a blindingly bright headlight!),it doesn't seem to make good contact with the rails has a tendency to jump the track on the wide curves. Is this an issue caused by the locomotive or is it a compatibility issue between the size of the curves/rail thickness? Do you think that it would run better on an older,more vintage track ? I have some older "T__"track in storage ,which is currently some 200 miles away, so I can't check on this myself at the moment.
Any ideas guys?
Thank you in advance!
Andrew
Here's a link to a video I posted of the DeWitt Clinton if you'd like to have a look at it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAUw7gH_YCE

[ACY]

Not sure if you are referring to Tenshodo or another company. But at any rate I don't see that as being an issue, Bachmann EZ Track is code 100, I could see an issue if say you were using Code 83 or something other than 100 but that is not the case.
It sounds like you should check everything on your locomotive and if necessary take it in to a proper shop for someone to look at it if necessary.

[Len]

A lot of this manufacturers 'Rogers' locos had problems with their motors. Just to be sure, pull the motor and roll the loco to make sure there is no binding the the mechanism. There probably will not be any, but it doesn't hurt to check.

If not, put power to the motor while it's out of the loco to see how it operates. If there's any 'cogging', over heating, or other indications of problems, it should be replaced with a modern can motor.

You can find the instructions, including exploded diagrams here: http://hoseeker.net/mantuainstructions.html

They're in the 12th row, 1st column. Click on the pull down and you'll see links to all 5 pages. You have to pull them up one at a time.

Len

[RkyGriz]

Hi , Len. Your suggestion hit the nail on the head. The motor, while it starts off starts off strong and runs great during static tests, quickly over heats and dies when put under even a slight load. It takes about 2-3 revolutions around the track and then it's done. This caused jerky operation and caused it to derail on top of dying.Thanks for the link to the parts diagrams, by the way. You mentioned re-motoring this unit with a modern can motor. How is that done ,and where can I find the motor and other parts necessary to accomplish this? What kind of expense are we talking about if I have to have someone else do the necessary work?0
This is a really nice looking loco and tender, and I'm making a project of it. It needs decals and perhaps repainting first to turn it into Sierra #3 as someone already lettered it as Virginia & Truckee #25, which while a 4-6-0, is a Baldwin loco and not Rodgers! LOL! I have the Bachmann V&T #25 4-6-0 as a custom Anniversary Edition loco and tender and a customized Bachmann Standard 4-6-0 #26 that I customized with paint and decals ( decals courtesy of Stan Cedarleaf  ) and added an Anniversary chassis to. I also have made 3 customized V&T flat cars (not made by Bachmann) and one V&T boxcar(made by Bachmann), road  #1015 . I always have some kind of rail road project going on whether it be G , HO, or O scale!
Anyway, thanks for the help. You were spot on!
Looking forward to hearing from you regarding the remotoring project for the Sierra #3!
Later!
Andrew

[jonathan]

RkyGriz,

Don't know it they're still in business, but there is a company called "Yardbird Trains".  They specialize in new motors, and motor-mounts, for older locomotives, like Tyco, Mantua, Varney, etc...

I use to call on them all the time.  That was years ago, though...

Also, Bowser has a parts department, that sold a very few kinds of motors, some open frame replacements as well.

Like I said, it's been years, and some of these old locos are as old as I am, so there might not be a market for these kinds of specialty parts anymore.  But it never hurts to ask...

Finally, NWSL (Northwest Shore Line) sells many sizes of motors.  It's up to the modeler to determine the size and how they will mount the new motor.  In this case it's also up to the modeler to figure out the worm gear needed and how to press on the new gear.

Regards,

Jonathan

[Len]

You'll need to take measurements from the old motor, in particular the shaft diameter if you plan to reuse the worm from the old motor. Once you have the measurements, the sites mentioned above are your best bet for a replacement.

Len

[RkyGriz]

Hi all. Thanks for the replies! I checked with NWSL and they have a remotoring kit for my loco. It's priced at $42.95 plus shipping, which is more than I spent on this loco in the first place, but I'll probably go ahead and order the parts.
Thanks you for all of your help!
Andrew

[RkyGriz]

Hi guys! I was just checking out how to accomplish this remotoring process. The new kit comes with a new drive gear. So, do you think that it would be necessary to change out the factory gearfrom the axle shaft and install the new gear on it? If so, what tool would I need ? NWSL offers a puller kit for the gear shaft, but I couldn't find a tool to press the replacement gear on to the shaft. Someone on the Bachmann G Scale forum suggested using a small socket with a hammer to gently tap the new gear on to the shaft for a broken 4-4-0 G Scale Spectrum  loco that I bought on Ebay a few months ago. It proved to be unnecessary advise as Bachmann still offers the complete drive shaft for sale on their website. Is this doable ,and safe for the gear, or is there a better way-ie proper tool- for doing that ?
Thanks again !
Andrew

[jonathan]

RkyGriz,

The "Puller II" will pull off gears and wheels, AND it will press on gears and wheels.  Instructions with the tool will show you how, but as you are an experienced modeler, it will probably make sense as you study the workings of the tool. Basically, you pull from one direction and flip over the wheel/axle to push back together.

You should make a mark or etch on the axle so you get the new gear centered correctly.

There is another tool called a quarterer, which helps align the 90 degree angle for the drive rod holes.  However, some modelers prefer to mark, or etch the wheels prior to pulling off the axles.  Then you can match the marks when you put the whole thing back together. Hopefully, this won't spark a debate, but I prefer to mark the wheels.  I have a quarterer, but find the tool, oh..., a bit awkward to operate.  Could be I'm an idiot, though. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[RkyGriz]

Thank you for the tips, Jonathan. I put an order together on NWSL to see how much it will cost and it wiil cost me about $70.00 for the parts and tool needed to do this project. I'm not in a hurry and it will probably be done within the next month or three. My G Scales are the priority right now ,and I'm currently working on building up my South Pacific Coast G Scale line. Cars lettered for this railroad are rare, hard to find, and some are quite pricey. I just picked up a new  Aristocraft SPC box car on Ebay for $45.00 with shipping. Not too bad for a brand new G Scale car considering the last one of these I saw would have cost me $80.00 if I had bought that one!There's also another one from Bachmann for around $30.00 (starting bid/shipping) and even though I already have one just like it, I'm considering buying it and changing the number. We'll see.
Anyway, thanks for your help.
Take care.
Andrew