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"Pliobond Cement"

Started by SteamGene, November 22, 2007, 01:55:16 PM

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r.cprmier

Gene;
If you are looking for a good track adhesive, use either Weldwood@ contact cement or this blue adhesive that comes in a tube.  I have used both and actually lilke the blue stuff a bit better.  lay out a bead, take s spatula and spread it, and lay your track.  With contact cement, it is really permanent-PERMANENT!  You coat both objects.  Just make sure you have it all set up proceedure wise.  Don't screw it up; it is murder to backtrack (excuse the pun).

Rich
Rich

NEW YORK NEW HAVEN & HARTFORD RR. CO.
-GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

SteamGene

Rich, the track in question will go on a bridge.
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

r.cprmier

Gene;
No biggie, but I have a suggestion if you haven't thought of it;
Central Valley has a bridge tie system that is compatible with about every plastic bridge structure out there (but especially Central Valley's).

To secure rail to ties,  Iwill use some form of contact cement, such as Pliobond or Goo.  A long long long time ago, there was an adhesive called "instant grip" and it would have worked like gangbusters.  Maybe the lawyers screwed that up, too.

At any rate, most tie strips such as rail line, atlas, etc, are made of an acetal plastic such as delrin, and it is a b***h to secure to anything sans a good contact cement.  Central Valley, on the other hand, is styrene.

All of my bridgework (I sound like a bloomin' dentist, don't I)? employs Jack Parker's bridge tie assemblies.  They look like a million pre-1920 dollars!

RIch
Rich

NEW YORK NEW HAVEN & HARTFORD RR. CO.
-GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

ebtnut

Adhesive come in a myriad of varieties, depending on what you want to do.  Back in the Jurassic times, about all we had for attaching non-similar materials (like wood and metal) was either Goo or Pliobond.  Both do the same thing.  Goo was a bit of a pain to work with because it was thick and it tended to string when you pulled the tip away from your work piece.  Pliobond could be heat-melted after application, which made it nice for hand-laying small rail.  You put a thin coat down on the ties, and let it dry.  Put your first rail down in position, then run a soldering iron over the rail slowly, which melted the Pliobond and bonded it to the rail.  When that set, get your track gauges out and lay the other rail in the same way.  I did about 40 feet of Code 40 this way once upon a time, and it was quite satisfactory. 

For the guy laying the track on the bridge, I would consider using one of the gap-filling ACC's today.  Quick, and generally permanent. 

Re: Silicone--be careful about what you get.  Some are intended more as caulks and fillers, and may not be has "adhesive" as you would like. 

SteamGene

That would be me, Nut!  I think that gap ACC would work, too.  Again, what started this whole thing was a specification for a specific brand - not a type, but a brand, which I'd never heard of because it's not available around here. 
Gene
Chief Brass Hat
Virginia Tidewater and Piedmont Railroad
"Only coal fired steam locomotives"

Loco Bill Canelos

Loco Bill,  Roundhouse Foreman
Colorado & Kansas Railway-Missouri Western Railway
Official Historian; Bachmann Large Scale
Retired Colorado RR Museum-Brakeman-Engineer-Motorman-Trainman
There are no dumb or stupid questions, just questions!

Woody Elmore

I noticed that  the local Staples sells little jars of Elmer's rubber cement.  The jars have a brush for application. The price locally is $1.79. I'm sure that it could be substituted for Pliobond.

Jim Banner

Pliobond is an old product that has been in hiding for years and has only lately re-emerged (at least in Canada.)  Much stronger than Elmer's rubber cement, it does not harden and let go like Goo.  It can be painted, unlike silicone, does not require a good fit like ACC, does not require mixing like epoxy, and in many situations, allows repositioning, unlike all the others. 

For best bonding, apply Pliobond to both surfaces, let dry, recoat one side, and press together.  The tack is instant, like contact cement, but allows repositioning for a short time, unlike contact cement.  The only down side is its odor.  It smells rather like uncured phenolic, probably because of a long term adhesive component not found in other rubber cements.  I suppose you could say Pliobond is just another rubber cement with some extra stuff added.  Just as you could also say a fine Chardonnay is just a bottle of water with some other stuff added.

Personally, Gene, I cannot think of a better choice for bonding your track to the top of your viaduct.  Neither, apparently, could the kit manufacturer.
Growing older is mandatory but growing up is optional.

taz-of-boyds

Jim,

Thanks for the low-down on the glue-down.  And to everyone else too, I was not the one asking, but I was watching. Getting the right glue for the job can be a big pain, and I have no experience with Pliobond.

Thanks,
Charles

Bill Baker

Gene and others,

A while back there was a discussion of glue on this forum and some nice soul provided a website in which you could index your various materials and it provided the best effective glue.

Click below:
http://www.thistothat.com/

Bill

r.cprmier

  Just as you could also say a fine Chardonnay is just a bottle of water with some other stuff added.

Curb thy tongue, knave!

(hic) Rich
Rich

NEW YORK NEW HAVEN & HARTFORD RR. CO.
-GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN!

Bill Baker

LOL!

Ahhh, right you are Rich.  I really should have looked more closely at that website....it really doesn't give that much information.  It just popped in my mind and I forwarded out.

Oh well, there still are a few slow freight trains running. :)
Bill