false uncoupling

[bob kaplan]

Purchased a Bachmann set and an uncoupling magnet to see how HO performs.   It was the ECHO VALLEY
I have large scale set up presently.   Engine was not dependable and was sent for repair.   It has been gone several weeks, so impatience got the best of me and I ordered a 4 6 0.   Much more dependable.   Runs very smoothly.  BUT no matter how smoothly the engine moves at slow speeds, there is a LOT of false uncoupling with the cars when they pass over the magnet.   If this is a common occurance with HO, I would find it really irratating.  Can anyone speak from experience and tell me if this is common with HO scale?

[Flare]

Is this an older set without springs on the sides of the couplers?

The Mark II couplers are more reliable.

[richiy]

Use a coupler height gauge to check the couplers out. Usually it is the glad hand height. Should be a standard check with new rolling stock.

richiy

[HoModeler]

Like richy say's get yourself a coupler gauge. Personally I don't use un-coupler magnets I think there more of a hassle than there worth. If you remove the magnet all together your issue will almost correct it self right away

[Len]

Or use a Kadee magnet for Code 83 track. They're not quite as high, but still work with Code 100 track if you stop directly over it.

Len

[ZeldaTheSwordsman]

By "false uncoupling" do you mean:
The cars briefly coming uncoupled while the train is in motion?
or
The cars failing to uncouple when you want them to?

It sounds like you're actually talking about the former.

[richiy]

If any slack occurs with maybe a slow moving train, uncoupling can occur.

richiy

[bob kaplan]

by false uncoupling I mean: when the train is moving slowly, the cars will UNcouple, breaking up the train.  When looking closely at the cars, it is apparent that the cars do not move smoothly.   There is a small change in tension at the couplers as the cars roll "unsmoothly." I have done a bit of reading and many modelers do not recommend lubing the axles because this eventually leads to collection of dirt and dust....and oil drips on the track.   Any advice? 

[richiy]

If the couplers seem ok, get a truck tuner from Micro Mark. Check the rolling stock.
Make sure they are weighted to NMRA standards.
I bought a digital scale some years ago from Amazon for about $12.00 and had very good reviews.

http://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight

Our club has all members convert their rolling stock to Intermountain all machined metal wheels but that is our way. Not everyone would agree. Many times the truck tuner would help.
We also use the truck tuner. We have found offending trucks at times. Al the trucks are plastic frames, not metal. The few all metal are ok.

richiy

[ZeldaTheSwordsman]

It's perfectly fine to lube the axles so long as you use suitable oil - and don't overdo it. Just a tiny drop on the end of a toothpick.

I would check to see if the wheels are able to freely spin (this much you can do by spinning them with your finger). If not, there may be crud in the axleboxes. Or there could be mold flash (excess plastic left over from the manufacturing) getting in the way, in which case you'll need to relieve the axleboxes with either a fine sharp knife or a small drill bit.

[bob kaplan]

As Flare pointed out....I don't think there are springs on the couplers. When using a magnifier, I cannot see any springs on the couplers.  ( I am still used to working in Large scare) I remember.....back in the day, Kadee's did have springs.   There are none on the side of the couplers included in the Bachmann set that I have.  Is This the reason there is a bit of trouble?

[richiy]

It's perfectly fine to lube the axles so long as you use suitable oil - and don't overdo it. Just a tiny drop on the end of a toothpick.

I would check to see if the wheels are able to freely spin (this much you can do by spinning them with your finger). If not, there may be crud in the axleboxes. Or there could be mold flash (excess plastic left over from the manufacturing) getting in the way, in which case you'll need to relieve the axleboxes with either a fine sharp knife or a small drill bit.

It is called a truck tuner. Works very well.

http://www.micromark.com/ho-truck-tuner,8241.html

richiy

[Len]

As Flare pointed out....I don't think there are springs on the couplers. When using a magnifier, I cannot see any springs on the couplers.  ( I am still used to working in Large scare) I remember.....back in the day, Kadee's did have springs.   There are none on the side of the couplers included in the Bachmann set that I have.  Is This the reason there is a bit of trouble?

Probably. The original EZ-Mate couplers had a plastic tab on the side to keep the knuckle closed, like this:


The problem was the platic tab could take a 'set' in the open position, leading to random uncoupling. Which is why the later EZ-Mate Mark II changed this to a metal spring, similar to Kadee couplers, which do not take a set:


If you couplers have the plastic tabs, or they are broken off, switching to a coupler that uses the metal knuckle spring should eliminate your problem.

Len

[bob kaplan]

Thanks all...looks like I have an answer!!

[jbrock27]

While you are at it replacing the couplers with ones with metal springs, I would put a small drop (teeny tiny) of CA Gel glue on the spring at the end closest to the shank.  This will help keep the spring from spronging off; they are a PITA to have to replace and you're better off not having to.