Couplers

[DTrain]

All but one of my trains use the same coupling.  The trains that are the same use a horn hook coupler (at least that's what I found online).  The one that is different uses a knuckle coupler.

How hard is it to change the couplers?
How is it done?
Where can I buy horn hook couplers?
Are knuckle couplers more common than horn hook couplers?

Thanks in advance.

[ebtnut]

The horn-hook coupler has a somewhat tarnished history.  I won't go over all of it, but in essence it was developed as a way to make a cheap, simple coupler for the train-set crowd back in the late 1950's.  Back then, you kind of had a choice of a working knuckle coupler (DeVore or Roundhouse) that was fussy and proprietary, a simple dummy coupler, or the Mantua loop-and-hook (also fussy and proprietary).  The horn-hook was actually a pretty good coupler, but a real finicky un-coupler.  Also, of course, it looked nothing like the prototype.  Kadee developed their working knuckle in about the same time period, which eventually became the "standard" for the serious scale modelers. 

When some of Kadee's patents expired, other suppliers started making their own versions of working knuckle couplers (McHenry, Bachmann, etc.), and they have collectively become the new "standard".  Kadee still makes a wide variety of couplers to fit almost anybody's rolling stock, so it is usually a pretty simple matter to covert.  In general, almost all of today's knuckle couplers will mate with each other.  I personnaly still prefer the all-metal Kadees for strength and durability. 

[bevernie]

One very simple way to "mix" the use of both types of couplers is to have a car with a different type at each end, and using it to "integrate" the two. Of course, since you only have the one "outlaw", it would be a very simple step to just replace the one "outlaw"! ... But, hang onto it, in case you ever want to make an "integrator"!!
                                                                                          THANX!!
                                                                                             Ernie

[SteamGene]

As the Nut says, knuckle couplers are the standard for the serious modeler and become the standard for everybody - almost all new kits and quality RtR come with a knuckle coupler now.
While a transition car is a solution, to really switch cars around the couplers should be the same.  I don't know how many cars you have, but here is my recommendation.
If you have cars whose coupler pocket is easy to open - that is Athearn or any with a screw or removable post, buy a bulk pack of #5 Kadees, which will give you enough couplers for either five or ten cars, depending on which size bulk pack you buy and buy one envelope of Kadee #5s, which will equip two more and give you instructions.  You should also get an NMRA gauge and a tube of silicone lube.   You will need a small, fine file and a pair of small needlenose pliars as well.
Here's what you do.  Take one coupler.  The end with the hole in it goes into the coupler box, of course.  With the file remove the paint on both sides of the coupler around the hole.  File perpendicular to the coupler shank.  The curved piece of metal is called the glad hand.  With the pliars, bend the tip of the glad hand up just a bit.  This will insure clearance of switches, grade crossings, and anything else that is supposed to be between the rails.  Place a spring - the brass boxy thing in the coupler pocket with the floor of the spring against the floor of the car.  Put a dab of the silicone lube on it, then place the coupler in the pocket and fasten the cover.  The screw should not be so tight as to keep the coupler from moving.  When you have couplers on both ends of the car, check their height with the gauge.  MOST of the time they are in gauge.  The most common out of gauge is too low, which can be cured by putting small washers (which Kadee makes) between the truck and the bolster.  If it's too high, you will have to trim the bolster.  Again, this is rare. 
After a couple of cars, you can change couplers in five minutes or less.   In most cases, it's easiest if you remove the trucks to change the coupler. 
If the couplers are mounted on the trucks, a Talgo mount, the same process is followed, except most experienced people will cut off the Talgo pocket and glue a Kadee coupler pocket (found in the envelope of couplers) to the car floor bottom.  Shimming may be necessary.
This is all a lot easier than it may sound.
Gene

[rogertra]

There is only one brand of coupler to consider.

Kadee.

The rest of the clones come nowhere near Kadees for durability and reliability

[RAM]

Kadee has a web page that tells what couplers to use for any brand of cars.  Most car are simple to change.

[newguy]

Dtrain,

Sometimes you have to get a little creative when replacing horn hook couplers with Kadee #5 couplers. Some of the older and less expensive or low quality rolling stock may have not only horn hook couplers but they may have cheap plastic wheels and trucks and the couplers may not be body mounted. I think it is kind of fun to take these and upgrade their parts. Body mounting the couplers is a big improvement as well. I wouldn't ever use horn hook couplers if I had a choice.

To be honest though, I have found that you get what you pay for and I have completely stopped buying the fix 'er uppers. Bachmann has a great line of "Silver Series" rolling stock that is affordable. They roll great  and look great. Right now that's all I will buy. I do however still replace the couplers with kadee #5's. They are extremely easy to change. Bachmann makes it's own brand which are ok but I like the Kadee's better (all due respect to Bachmann).

Clearly there are even more expensive brands that are of excellent quality out there but I think the Silver Series is great for my purposes.

P.S. The most affordable websites to buy silver series or any other brand of rolling stock are wholesaletrains.com or ebay.

Best regards,

new guy

[kevin2083]

I use mostly the Bachmann mark II couplers with the metal springs. All of my lcos have KD's , bot only a few cars. If I had the tme and money I would completely change to KD, but I don't see it neccesary since I'm not runing 89 car trains, causing many collisions, or having the trains dive to the floor, where an all-metal coupler would be best.

[Beatle (TrainBrain)]

Kadee, definatly.

[bevernie]

Kadee has a web page that tells what couplers to use for any brand of cars.  Most car are simple to change.

PLEASE tell us the ADDRESS!!
                                                                            THANX!!
                                                                               Ernie

[WoundedBear]

http://www.kadee.com/conv/ho.htm

Sid