Coca Cola Christmas Train

[James in FL]

Oy vey!

@manofthesea
Let's go back to the beginning of the post.
I have to agree that the problem is probally from not properly cleaning of the wheels (including lokie) and the track.
ALL contact points must be cleaned. (This includes track, wheels, contact strips, wipers, and commutator).

Do not lubricate anything without a thorough cleaning first.
Lots of posts here on how to do exactly that.
From the power pack to the motor.
Basically the entire "flow path" of electricity.
Only then can you lightly lubricate.
Do you have access to, and know how to utilize a multi-meter?
Yes, No?
Using only your multi-meter, you can determine if it's a contact (electrical) problem or a mechanical (binding. i.e. dried, caked, lube) problem.
Await your reply.


Now the hard part that has me shaking my head;
@WilsonProductions2,
I don't really know where to start,
No cleaning, no lubing, ever.
Make it a practice to remove all old lubricant before applying any new.
The OP states the "clerk" gave the lokie a smell, but didn't offer comment after doing so.
You replied ...

Maybe that was to see if was leaking oil or not. That is my best guess as to why he smelt it!

Umm...
If any lokie is leaking oil you have BIG, BIG, problems.
This is not a problem with the lokie, but rather a problem with the owner (or whoever lubricated it).

I would surmise the "clerk" smelled the lokie to try to determine if the motor windings were burnt (shorted) (wire insulation), or if the commutator was loaded with oil (the smell of burning oil).
Two very different odors.
This is common practice and gives you a starting point on where to look when troubleshooting.
If he only smelled a slight ozone odor, or nothing at all, he would know that is normal and there are no problems with the motor, therefore offering no comment.

Wow....is there ever a pile of junk for sale there.....lol. I can see all of it being future garage sale inventory

P.T. Barnum

[WilsonProductions2]

^^ The tablet I was using to view the original link was my Apple iPad too and it didn't work. Same happened when I turned my HP Pavilion laptop on, that is running Windows 10, using Microsoft Edge to view it.

[jbrock27]

Await your reply.

I hope you are not holding your breadth James 

[manofthesea]

Great post. Thank you. I shoot high grade lubricant occasionally, but have never cleaned the track or wheels. The wheels are metal btw. I just received another car in the mail. It seems much lighter than all of the others and with just the loco and the new car, the train runs great.

I do have another question however. My set consists of 1 loco, 8 cars and an engine. The engine is as heavy as the loco but does not provide drive power. It just coasts along with the cars. Is that normal?

Thanks to everyone.

[manofthesea]

BTW, I do have a multimeter and basic electrical understanding. Are there certain readings that I should look for concerning the track and controller?
Thanks.
I am really busy with work and family and rarely check my email and this forum. I appreciate the help and really love my train set.

I have a small xmas tree set up on a table with the train running around it. It's great.

[James in FL]

but have never cleaned the track or wheels

That's the best place to start.

I shoot high grade lubricant occasionally

As previously stated, it's good practice to clean and remove all old lubricant before applying any new.
Depending on the viscosity of, and placement of where you are "shooting high grade lubricant" you may not be doing yourself any favors.
Many good threads both here, and on other forums, about cleaning and lubricating.
Also check out YouTube, lots of good videos on how to do it.

Are there certain readings that I should look for concerning the track and controller?

Not really unless you notice something that's just not quite right, but many of us continually monitor volts and amps on our layouts.
Pretty much a necessity on our test tracks for troubleshooting.
Current spikes and/or drops are an indicator of something amiss.

Slipping, or what appears to be slipping, has several causes.
Clean your wheels and track first and report back, and we will go from there.

Also, I do not see anything in the link provided that would indicate that the "Issue two" is anything other than an unpowered F7?B unit.

[manofthesea]

but have never cleaned the track or wheels

That's the best place to start.

I shoot high grade lubricant occasionally

As previously stated, it's good practice to clean and remove all old lubricant before applying any new.
Depending on the viscosity of, and placement of where you are "shooting high grade lubricant" you may not be doing yourself any favors.
Many good threads both here, and on other forums, about cleaning and lubricating.
Also check out YouTube, lots of good videos on how to do it.

Are there certain readings that I should look for concerning the track and controller?

Not really unless you notice something that's just not quite right, but many of us continually monitor volts and amps on our layouts.
Pretty much a necessity on our test tracks for troubleshooting.
Current spikes and/or drops are an indicator of something amiss.

Slipping, or what appears to be slipping, has several causes.
Clean your wheels and track first and report back, and we will go from there.

Also, I do not see anything in the link provided that would indicate that the "Issue two" is anything other than an unpowered F7?B unit.

Thanks for the response. I will clean the track and all contact points using electrical contact cleaner.
Sorry, but is the engine supposed to have locomotive drive power?

..or would it be better if I cleaned the train set using isopropyl alcohol?

[Len]

As long as the contact cleaner says "safe for plastics" it will work fine for cleaning out old oil and grease. What you don't want to use is 'Tuner Cleaner' that contains a lubricant. For general wheel cleaning, alchohol works fine.

Len

[jbrock27]

One of the best, easiest, ways to clean the wheels on a loco is to spray some WD-40 or PB Blaster (my preference) on a piece of paper towel.  Then put the paper towel on the track.  Place the loco's wheels on the rails so you can power it, but have the remaining loco wheels on the paper towel that is wet with the WD-40 or PB Blaster.  Hold the loco from moving and turn the power up so wheels are touching the paper towel and being cleaned.  Then change things up so you can also clean the wheels that were not contacting the paper towel the first time around. 
The same came be done with rolling stock, but w/o the power; just roll the car back and forth over the saturated towel. 
You should see the results in black streaks on the paper towel.

[WilsonProductions2]

I'm amazed this Coca-Cola Train thread is still this popular!

[jbrock27]

Perhaps, someday, in one of your posts, you will actually add something to it.

[WilsonProductions2]

^ I do add things in my posts, according to subject in that particular thread. I just wanted to mention that I am amazed that's still in discussion. Please don't be sarcastic about my posts, jbrock27.

[manofthesea]

Thanks to everyone. I am going to clean my track today using isopropyl alcohol. I am also going to clean my loco wheels using the paper towel/wd 40 method.
The high grade lubricant that I previously mentioned is called Zepreserve, which we've found out at my work place is a much better lubricant than wd 40.

However, my question concerning the train engine remains unanswered. Is the train engine supposed to provide drive power, or just coast along like an overweight car?

Again, thanks.

BTW, I worked a 16 hour day yesterday (brain dead) and have been really busy at work so unable to correspond frequently enough with you guys. I repair traffic signals..all of my coworkers are really "physical" (yet smart), but truly admire my interest in my train set.

[WilsonProductions2]

^ Yes, the locomotive provides the power. The locomotive will always have the motor inside of it, which provides the power for it to run and pull it's wagons.

[James in FL]

I don't like your choice of lubricant simply because I don't see anything anywhere that states that this product is safe for plastics.
I don't use spray types, but rather liquid types that can be controlled drop by drop.
My choice for a cleaner:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505

My choice for lubrication either Hob e lube or Labelle lubricants.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/StandardHob-E-Lube
Here's a video from LaBelle;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQkU18WmuWw

However, my question concerning the train engine remains unanswered. Is the train engine supposed to provide drive power, or just coast along like an overweight car?

I did answer your question, maybe you missed it.

my reply;

Also, I do not see anything in the link provided that would indicate that the "Issue two" is anything other than an unpowered F7?B unit.

It's just along for the ride.