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FM16-44

Started by Aljim54, December 08, 2016, 12:39:44 AM

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jonathan

There should be two rings on each truck;  one on the left, and one on the right.

On one of my locos, the ring was folded up too far, squeezed up in between the two metal frame halves.  This prevented the truck from swiveling correctly, AND it could actually touch the other frame half, causing a short. It obviously got caught and folded as the loco was being assembled at the factory.  ...it happens.  :)  Not the end of the world, once one can diagnose the problem.

I discovered this when I first ran the loco.  It would run herky jerky and would not negotiate a curve.  Thus, there was an intermittent short and the truck would not turn properly.

The round part of the "D" should curve up, just enough, to touch the bottom of its corresponding frame half.

Again, this may not be your problem, but I recall, when these locomotives were first released, some folks had issues with proper contact around the D rings.

Regards,

Jonathan

jbrock27

#16
You are quite welcome AJ.

Quote from: Len on December 09, 2016, 08:23:28 AM
I'm sure there are legite sellers out their, especially retailers with an eBay presence. But man, there are a lot of scam artists too.

Len

You are absolutely correct, on both counts.  But if AJ follows all of the advice generously provided to him, things will work out in his favor.  In addition, this will serve as a good learning experience on a lot of levels.  I have additional advice if necessary, but I for one would appreciate AJ keeping us informed of what happens and is happening as this plays out.

The "rings" JV speaks of, are spring metal (I would call them half moon shaped) and they make contact between the trucks and each frame half.  Here is a pic to perhaps help:

http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html

You may have to blow up the pic, but you can see them as the dark colored "arches" on the top of the trucks in picture #2.

Keep Calm and Carry On

WoundedBear

That site Jim linked to is about to disappear in the next few months. If anyone wants it for reference, now is the time to download the info to your own hard drives.

Sid

jonathan

#18
Here is one of my FM H16-44's:


Apologies for my mistake, earlier. There are FOUR screws that need to be removed, to get the shell off. Couplers can stay on.


Shell off:


Here is the pickup ring I wrote about earlier.  One of these was bound up between the frame pieces when I received mine in the mail:


Another area of concern is the gap between the frame halves.  Any stray bit of metal could wander up in here and cause a short.  It takes three screws to separate the frame.  Do this gently. You don't want parts flying into the ether, never to be found again:


The inner sanctum:


My gears look a bit dry.  I have had this thing for a decade now.


While I'm in here, might as well hook up a power source, turn the baby over and clean the wheels.


I used tiny drops of conductalube on the axles, and Labelle gear oil on the worm and plastic tower gears (tiny amounts).


An additional thought:  as I recall I did have to bend one of the motor tabs (straighten it out really) so it seated squarely against the frame half.  No big deal.

I stand ready for your questions.  ;D

Regards,

Jonathan

Aljim54

I noticed in picture #6 that it looks like there is some electrical tape around one end of the motor

jonathan

Yes, the electrical tape is wrapped around the end of the motor.  It came that way from the factory.  It must be to ensure the motor doesn't contact the sides of the frame... the frame pieces are live and carry current to the motor tabs and the lighting tabs. 

I have also used electrical tape on motors to help cut down on vibration. Some locomotives have an inherent buzzing sound, usually from the motor's vibration being transferred to the frame and shell.  Too much tape, however, can cause a motor to get overly warm.

Regards,

Jonathan

jbrock27

Quote from: jonathan on December 13, 2016, 07:10:17 AM
I have also used electrical tape on motors to help cut down on vibration. Too much tape, however, can cause a motor to get overly warm.

Regards,

Jonathan

This is where Kapton tape has it over electrical tape; it won't trap heat.  It also does not leave the sticky residue electrical tape does.

JV, you sure this was virgin when you bought it?  Bc I am not so sure the electrical tape is a factory addition; I have a split frame GP35 that did not come with electrical tape on the motor.  And I can't see a reason for tape being there, except having been put there by someone looking to reduce vibration like you touched on.  There is no metal at that end of the motor to touch the frame, it is all plastic at that end of the motor housing.

AJ, what is the latest with yours? 

Keep Calm and Carry On

Aljim54

The two tabs on the motor,should they be touching the frame.I put the loco on the tracks and it moves a little stops,overload comes on,goes off moves a little,and so on.The plastic end cap on the motor broke so I took the broken pieces and taped it back on

Aljim54

Just adjusted the two tabs against the frame,and it's running wonderfully. 😀

Aljim54

New question,The headlight on the 2 hoods come on opposite the direction of the direction of travel

jbrock27

Have the motor upside down would be my first guess (unless you monkeyed too with the light board.)

How did the plastic end cap break?
Did you follow my suggestion w/regard to the Seller?

Good news all in all.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Aljim54

Not sure if the end cap was cracked or not.The seller is out of the office until May 2017.I am guessing Florida or Arizona.What is Kapton tape

Jerrys HO

Quote from: Aljim54 on December 16, 2016, 08:53:22 PM
.What is Kapton tape

Man I love the web... you can google just about anything  ;D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton


jbrock27

#28
Quote from: Aljim54 on December 16, 2016, 08:53:22 PM
The seller is out of the office until May 2017.

I know, I heard (read) you the first time.  I commented that I thought that (automated) response you got from the Seller is total BS and suggested you do something; did you do it ???

Kapton tape is what folks should use instead of electrical tape, especially those doing DCC work.  You can find it/buy it for cheap on Ebay, w/o having to worry much about getting ripped off by a crooked Seller.  Don't need a lot of yards or feet, a little goes a long way.  It comes in varied thicknesses and widths.  Mostly comes from Chine.

Quote from: Jerrys HO on December 16, 2016, 09:58:14 PM
love the web... you can google just about anything

Agree.  Too bad most Forum posters appear too lazy to do so and would rather spend the time posting the question and have someone else do their research for them.  Not learning much by taking that approach.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Aljim54

I have contacted ebay,and they will look into it.I have seen Wal-Mart has the Kapton tape.