newbie to 2rail, layout ideas

[bsamot69]

1st post so bear with me?!  been playing with trains since dad gave me one in 1969. am building first room size layout.  woohoo!  father-in-law dropped off boxes of Bachmann train stuff had in storage! cool, huh? okay, have space to add a spur off main layout for an american train yard using all these new/used boxcars etc.  keep in mind the newest still in box loco is a 15 year old GE Dash 8 40 something (Walthers) so we r talking non digital.  Can you all direct me  to layout pics/designs for ideas?  thank you in advance and i apologize if my post is inappropriate.

[Hunt]

Click Here - ideas for track plan with yard.

[jbrock27]

How far back is the Bachmann stuff from?  What kind of track?  Power source(s)?

[bsamot69]

I am on the road right now but will post the type of stuff when I get home:)

[jbrock27]

Very good.  I ask, bc you may have some work to do and additional things to consider

[jward]

vest advice I can give is to only use the numbered switches in your yard. if you are using ez track, don't go smaller than the #5,  if you are using atlas, the #4 works well, and if using peco, the medium radius is a good choice. all are similar in the sharpness of curve and frog angle, and should work well with your walthers b40-8. if you are planning on running larger locomotives and cars, opt for #6 or peco large radius switches.

a 1x12 plank, at least 8 feet long, makes an excellent base for a yard.

[bsamot69]

Your advice is very thought provoking!  my research will begin with the differences between switch numbers you have mentioned.  Most of the track is old 2 rail that was stored carelessly, damage from moisture.  I took a handful and cleaned corrosion from rails using mild water baking soda mix (mix i used to clean battery posts on cars) After thorough rinsing the test loco ran on them.  I have switches(turnouts) that have similar damage. was going to try similar clean process but am 2nd guessing.  turnout mechanisms frozen on all, would WD40 on mechanism linkage be better or?  I also acquired some of the   plastic track, is that called EZ track(is my naivety about 2 rail coming out?)? 
     No switches in plastic track.  Now more questions are coming to mind, is it appropriate to restrict a post to 1 subject? Subjects like; cleaning old track, different switch number characteristics and type of track these apply to, EZ track or metal, adapting plastic track to 2 rail metal etc?  Thanks in advance for your advice. A little more about me and my trains.  The past 40 some years my train experience has been with Marklin 3 rail.  Mostly (ALL), European influence type consists/locomotives.  The boxes of Bachmann american trains my father-in-law was an eye opener to a larger train world and I have the space to start an american section!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jbrock27]

This is why I had asked the questions that I did.  

Does the EZ track have black or gray roadbed?  The other track: brass or steel?  If steel, the rust will come back, if brass, very likely the corrosion (tarnish) will come back.  I also suspect that none of the switches/turnouts you have are numbered (if so there will be a # on the ties on the bottom of the switch/turnout) but rather, they are what are commonly known as "Snap Switches".  They have a sharper curve to them than any numbered switch/turnout and are meant to simulate an 18"R curves commonly found in train sets.  They and their cousins, #4s don't equal the same geometry.  I would imagine the curves you have are 18"R.  Not that a Snap Switch or 18"R curve can't be used, but I am concerned about the type and condition of the track you inherited.

Are you asking about putting W-D40 on the switch/turnout itself or on a machine that once electrified, changes the switch/turnout from straight to divergent position?

[bsamot69]

They are manual switches with a lever.  the plastic track is gray and is actually made by Life Like, my bad.  the other track is a mix of brass and steel.  sad that it sat in damp storage:((.  guess i will start searching for the numbered switches you mentioned. any tips on where to find reasonable prices for track?  ebay or??

[jbrock27]

Ebay, Trainworld, Model Train Stuff and even Amazon.  And I would only buy Nickel Silver track and switches/turnouts.  Not to rain on your parade, but I would stay away from using the steel and really rethink using the brass.  The tops of the brass rail can be kept reasonably clean but the sides of the rails, not as easy and as it was already exposed to those damp conditions, the corrosion (tarnish) will creep back.  

And yes, you can try the WD-40 to get the parts moving.

And the Life Like track is Power Loc, if you did not already know it.  N/S since the road bed is gray.  Never had or used it so know nothing else about it.

[jward]

switch numbers apply to all switched regardless of scale or track type. the number is actually a ratio of the frog angle. expressed as the distance it takes the frog rails to spread 1 unit apart. the unit doesn't matter, it could be inches, millimeters or any other unit. for example, on a #6 it would take the rails 6 inches to spread I inch apart. on numbered switches the rails beyond the frog are straight, whereas on most of the train set type switches, the rails through the switch are curved to a particular radius as they are designed to be drop in replacements for standard track sections. in HO scale, the most common curve used on switches is 18" radius (18r) although 22r switches are also available.

on older track, beware of fibre ties, which are made of some kind of compressed paper. these were discontinues about 40 years ago, but it sounds like this may be what you have. fibre ties warp in moist environments, and this will affect the track guage. out of guage track is a major source of derailments so I highly recommend against the use of this track. as for steel and brass track, steel can rust, and both types are much harder to keep clean than the nickel silver track that is standard to-day. if you are even considering conversion to dcc control, you will want to relegate such track to yards or spurs where the locomotives will not be running on it, if not eliminate this track entirely.

[jbrock27]

...designed to be drop in replacements for standard track sections. in HO scale, the most common curve used on switches is 18" radius (18r)

As stated earlier, commonly referred to as a Snap Switch.

on older track, beware of fibre ties, which are made of some kind of compressed paper. these were discontinues about 40 years ago, but it sounds like this may be what you have.

Doesn't sound to me like the stuff he has goes back that far

...as for steel and brass track, steel can rust, and both types are much harder to keep clean

So well said.  Now why I didn't I think to have mentioned that...   

[bsamot69]

i feel i need to express my sincere appreciation to everyone, in this awesome forum,  that has taken the time to help me with all of my naive questions!!!  THANK YOU.  i m sure i will be tapping your accumulated knowledge daily, if that is okay!!?

[jbrock27]

You don't have any of those fibre (fiber) ties, do you?

[electrical whiz kid]

Like Brock, Jeffrey, and others opine, ditch the fibre tie stuff:  It is three-foot grief!!  On oiling; WD-40 contains petrol distillates that may attack whichever plastic compound the body (TIES) consist of.  My opinion: use an oil specifically for the purpose intended; or even Wahl's clipper oil.  Be judicious!
Also, as Brock mentioned; ****can the brass-it is going to give you much agita.  As a conductor, brass has less resistance than nickel silver, BUT.......  As Brock also mentioned...

Rich C.