Advice wanted for shortening a car.

[Flare]

The saw that I like is made by Zona.  Atlas makes one for about $5.  Check with Walthers.  I would not want to use a power saw.  It would be fast, but I think you have more control with a hand tool.

That Zona one looks like the best option with 52 teeth per inch.

I've decided against cutting the car with a power tool, but what about sanding?  Will that overheat the plastic if I use a light touch?

[jbrock27]

...what about sanding?  Will that overheat the plastic if I use a light touch?

No that will not.  Lots of options there-needle files, sand paper, emery boards.  

X-Acto also makes an extra fine razor saw.  X75350.  Got mine at an Ocean State Job Lot for $3.99 .  But one thing what would concern me about using a razor saw is working on the plastic of a box car is not like cutting a 2 x 4 and I would be very careful about applying too much downward pressure with the saw, like when cutting a plastic shell so to avoid cracking the shell somewhere I did not want it cracked.

Heck, for what you are planning to cut, the ends of a flat car, you could probably get away with a fine toothed hacksaw or coping saw, then clean it up with your sanding.  I would clamp what you are cutting to a wood block so it does not move around.

[James in FL]

All the suggestions so far are good.
I agree with making the cut as close to the end as possible rather than in the middle if the car, it's easier to hide.
Personally I like a Zona or Exacto razor saw, used with a miter box.
Blades I use are upwards of 40 TPI, get a 54 TPI if you can.
It's what I use.

As @jbrock27 mentioned the more TPI the smoother the cut will be. This also helps to keep the car body from vibrating as you cut it.
Go slow and easy, a very minimum of down force is necessary, just enough to keep the blade in contact with the work.
Then use a flat needle file to very delicately clean up the cut edges.
I like to file a small bevel on the inside of the cut.
I'll then tack the inside seam with Super Glue in several places.
Then on the outside of the seam, I will apply Bondo Glazing putty, from a syringe, directly down into the seam.
This method eliminates sanding the putty completely.

A few links, please note I model N scale, so your miter box and saw blades will be larger.
But just to get an idea, look at these links;

Miter box; http://www.micromark.com/miter-box-for-razor-saw,6752.html

Saw blades; http://www.micromark.com/razor-saw-blade-1-1and4-inches-x-5-inches-54-tpi-pkg-of-2,11846.html

Example, if cut filled with glazing putty, no sanding afterwards; (note tender body is not fastened down to frame, just placed in position for photo, cut was right down behind rivet line;  

Heck, for what you are planning to cut, the ends of a flat car, you could probably get away with a fine toothed hacksaw or coping saw, then clean it up with your sanding.  I would clamp what you are cutting to a wood block so it does not move around.

^^^ Probably almost exactly what I did on my first bash, used a GP9 body and made an RP-E4D slug from it.
Make due with something you already have at your disposal if possible before allocating funds for specialty tools.


Good luck

[Flare]

Okay, the Gondola and tender shell I'll be gluing on it arrived yesterday.  The tender is exactly the same width as the 'flatcar' so I'll probably be able to get away with hiding the seam along a stake holder.

The razor saw and miter box are still on order, but while I wait for them what color and brand of touch-up paint should I look for that matches Bachmann's black plastic?

And does that Bondo glazing putty work on plastic or should I look for something specifically made for plastic?

[jbrock27]

Ever hear it said that while there are many shades of white, there is only one shade of black?

Does what you are going to paint have a flat or glossy finish?

[rogertra]

Ever hear it said that while there are many shades of white, there is only one shade of black?

Does what you are going to paint have a flat or glossy finish?

And weathering covers many a slight mismatch in shades of paint. 


Cheers


Roger T.

[jbrock27]

weathering

Cheers


Roger T.

One step at a time, old boy...

[Flare]

Ever hear it said that while there are many shades of white, there is only one shade of black?

Does what you are going to paint have a flat or glossy finish?

Nope.

The finish appears to be flat, possibly semi gloss.  Kind of hard to tell because most of it's textured to look like wood.

[James in FL]

And does that Bondo glazing putty work on plastic or should I look for something specifically made for plastic?

It works excellent on plastic, it's all I've used for well over a decade now.
Never a problem with shrinkage or cracking.
I quit with the Squadron green and white putties long ago.
In my experience they go on too dry and are very grainy.
Others love the Squadron and use nothing else.
YMMV

From Wally world.
Bondo Glazing and Spot putty #907 here;

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-4.5-oz/16927984

Read the customer reviews on that page.

[Flare]

And does that Bondo glazing putty work on plastic or should I look for something specifically made for plastic?

It works excellent on plastic, it's all I've used for well over a decade now.
Never a problem with shrinkage or cracking.
I quit with the Squadron green and white putties long ago.
In my experience they go on too dry and are very grainy.
Others love the Squadron and use nothing else.
YMMV

From Wally world.
Bondo Glazing and Spot putty #907 here;

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-4.5-oz/16927984

Read the customer reviews on that page.

Says it's not available at that particular retailer in my area, but my local auto parts store carries it!

[J3a-614]

Says it's not available at that particular retailer in my area, but my local auto parts store carries it!

No surprise, that stuff has been used forever in auto body repair!! 

Back in the bad old days when rust was more of a problem than it is now, there would be jokes about how much of some cars was still steel and how much was Bondo!!   

[J3a-614]

At least one real railroad used Bondo, too.  

This was the Chicago, North Shore & Milwaukee, an interurban that ran between its two namesake cities.  

What was likely its best known equipment were two articulated trains called the Electroliners.  Both have survived into preservation, one at Orbisonia, Pa., as a Red Arrow Liberty Liner (the sets were sold to Philadelphia after the North Shore was abandoned), and one that was returned to its native territory at Union, Illinois.

In the process of restoration, the paint was stripped from the Union set, and it was found the end cars had considerable rust and collision damage.  Supposedly there was something like a hundred pounds of Bondo in each one!

This has since been properly replaced with steel.

[brokenrail]

Roger,a VERY VERY slow Dremel speed ought to be ok, right?

I'm getting ready to kitbash a Bachmann 1860 wood combine, and a similar Mantua one,  into "drovers" (sometimes called "long") cabooses, and will be removing roof areas for cupola placement. Need to know.

Wrong tool ,Please do not advise this way.If the correct precision cut tool is available like Roger advised why steer someone the wrong way .Amotor tool may be used for rough cuts only.  I found a old miter box at a yard sale and a 10 inch precision cut hand saw ultra fine tooth Japanese made with a wood handle on sale at Harbor Freight and it will cut so fine that you cannot see the cut seam of a painted item when joined together sitting there without being bonded .A tool lke this does make good work easier.But you still have to clamp the part down and work slow. This is the correct tool to advise.
Johnny