Codes and wheels/couplers too

[Deland]

 Len, thanks for that link. Since I want to order some phillips head 2-56 that will be a great place to shop. What other sizes will I find useful? I figure I might as well make one order and combine ship[ping.
Any other fasteners any of you would suggest?

[Len]

Deland - If you're not sure what you may need, they also have an assortment of small screws and nuts:

http://www.microfasteners.com/aststtrn-small-steel-fastener-assortment-for-trains.html

Len

[jbrock27]

Thank you both De and Len for the info

De, what is it you are cutting on the Talgos that you are breaking Xacto blades?

Some time ago, I saved that micro fasterner site from Len, but I buy my 2-56 screws and nuts from Radio Shack.  The screws are slotted and come in different lengths.  However, what I do is use a cable cutter I bought at True Value Hardware, from a lawn mower job, to cut the long screws to lengths I need.  I put a nut on the screw first, cut it and then clean it up using a file or bench grinder.  I make sure to run the nut over the threads several times to get it the cut end right.  I typlicaly use 2 sizes of hollow styrene tubing in the bolster holes to have a place to mount the trucks.  Glue the larger diameter first in the bolster hole, using Testors Tube model glue, then after dry, glue the smaller size into it.  Using the tubing with the holes in the middle, gives you an already centered (fairly) hole.  Then I tap (when I have a working pin vise, ha ha ha) for the 2-56 screw, just doing a little to get it started and then let the screw self tap the rest of the way.

For coupler boxes, I have a set of small, self tapping Phillips head screws, 3/16 or 1/14" from EBay, lots and dirt cheap.  Recently, I have taken to putting a small dab of Testors tube glue on the back end of the coupler box, away from the center hole to help keep it in place.  Alleviates the need to potentially tighten the screw down so much to keep the box from moving, that you effect the swing of the coupler in the box.

[Deland]

jbrock, I may be using the wrong term but these were truck mounted couplers which I have seen referred to as "Talgo". I cut the coupler box off of those trucks so it wouldn't interfere with the new couplers or bottom of the car. That's where I broke the blade. I used a bit too much pressure I guess but switched to a brand new blade in a utility knife and it worked easily. I then filed the cut smooth and shaped like the opposite side of the truck. I also had to file just a touch in the body right above the coupler because it interfered with the action of the coupler.
I haven't gone out to my toolbox and checked but I have a pair of stripper/crimper pliers that have threaded holes for screws to go thru. There's an opening in the other half and when you grip them firmly enough they cut the screw and when you back it out of the threaded hole it cleans the threads fairly well. They work well on #6 #8 and #10 Screws but I don't know if they go that small. Shortest length you can cut would be about 3/16 ths. I'll try to check and get number/brand off of them and let you know if they will do that. I think I gave $6-8 for the pair and have used the same ones for 10 years as a mechanic. Just another tool in the arsenal that is easier than cutting and filing such small parts. Ace may carry them and they may come smaller than the 10 in or so ones I have.
I have no way of knowing what tools you have or whether you've ever noticed this feature on strippers before but thought I would throw that out there. I find having the proper tool to do something makes it much more a joy than a chore.

[Deland]

 I had found this thread. It goes into some detail about the trucks and that's where I got the Talgo" terminology.

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18567.0.html

[jbrock27]

Thanks.  You are using the right term and I know what Talgo Trucks are.  You'll see that I posted in that particular Thread a time or two that you provided the link to 

My question to you was what you were cutting on the Talgo Trucks.  Now I understand.  You can use End Nippers for the job you are trying to do, better than using an Xacto.  I don't often reuse Talgos but when I cut off the same place you are, I use a shortened coping saw blade that I chuck in one of my other, working pin vises and cut it away.  Then do the filing sanding you are doing.

I need to ask, are these Talgos you are trying to reuse, have the molded plastic friction pin that holds the truck into the bolster?  If so, I would not bother trying to reuse them.

[Deland]

 They do have the friction pin and they did work but not to my satisfaction. That pesky budget got in my way at the Train shop and I didn't get but a couple of sets of trucks, some wheels, a Zona, Kadees, screws, and a loco cradle, some lubricant and taps and drills. I had to stop somewhere so the QOV didn't get involved. So more trucks are on the list. And styrene or dowel stock to fill the holes. I'm going to check Radio shack for screws tomorrow though. I may use one of the sets of trucks I got on this car but I think I'll do some of the better ones with Kadees and see what needs them that looks best. I did start with the lowest priced and worst practice car I had. I didn't see any reason to hone my skills on something that might make a "good" car. I need to make a trip out to the toolbox and see if I have a pair of end nippers or put them on my list. IIRC I do have a pair, just need to see if they are in my main toolbox or one of the others.

I noticed in that other thread, the discussion about screws backing out. I've worn glasses all my life and used to have a problem with the screws getting loose in them. Then I learned to put a brushstroke of clear fingernail polish on them. They stick enough to not back out but are easy enough to remove with a screwdriver.

[jbrock27]

You were smart to start/practice on a low price car.

Using the styrene tube method I described, screws will not back out.  Did you read that in relation to using screws w/nuts?  I used to employ that method, melting a nut in the bolster for the screw to go in but found 2 problems w/that method: 1) harder to get the nut to be level than when using the styrenne and filing when have to, 2) the screw would loosen from the nut (but this can be cured with Blue Thread Lock.) 

I like your nail polish trick

Yea, one big reason I don't like to use those trucks I mentioned is it limits your ability to make height adjustments to the car, to get the coupler height correct.

[jbrock27]

'nother question:  Do the cars you are working on, have the molded in roof walk?  Do you like their look?  I have modified a few, some I had on hand already and a couple a bought, until I decided modifying such cars was not worth the same trouble as modifying a car that had a seperate roof walk, just 'cause those cars look better.   Certainly work on the cars you have, but I would suggest in the future, you want to avoid buying ones with the molded in roof walk.

[Deland]

 jbrock, the cars I'm working on, I bought because they were cheap enough to learn on without risking any $$$. I figured I would see what I could do with them, then move up to better stuff. There's actually a train show here on the 18th IIRC and I may try to pick up a better car or two. The couplers actually lined up well on this one but it's too junky a car to consider putting any $$ into for trucks and such so if I run across a car with decent trucks at the train show, I may buy one to salvage trucks from. Mostly though, I'll be looking for better cars to build better skills on. I'm hoping with the better weather we're suppose to get this week that I can start some assembly on benchwork I have cut. That's the plan if the QOV doesn't sit on top of me. I have to go to Tx on the 19th to pick up a car my wife bought and will probably be gone for a week or 10 days since I have a couple of sisters and some cousins I need to visit. Sometime in the next two weeks or right after I get back, I need to do some brake work and finish some bodywork on a truck so I have a Cruise In ride this summer. I've got a new speedometer to put in it also. I have no idea how I ever had time for a job.

You're right about the roof walks, they do add a dimension of detail the ones without will never have. I haven't done a search but they make a "Nutcert" (nut insert) that is a self expanding threaded insert that can be used in blind holes when you can't tap to a larger size. I doubt they have any that can be used in plastic but a cut down version of a plastic wall anchor might be an option for the ones that are damaged though a wood screw would probably be the only thing it would hold. In fact I may try that to see if a bolster could be repaired that way if I find a cheap car with a busted bolster, just so I'll know. I'm kind of a "Mad Scientist" that way, I'll experiment.

I'll probably wait until I build a little more skill before tackling ladders and stirrup details and focus for now on the ability to get cars/locos to run smoothly and reliably. And I think I need a small compressor before I try painting, the 30 gal one I have is probably a bit large for the airbrush I have that's 7-8 years old and still in it's package. I do want to get my benchwork built so I can start trying different layouts, testing and programming trains on my oval didn't take as long as I hoped to get boring. I finally have enough track and should be able to get some of the bench done to do practice layouts on. And that reminds me that I need some better lights in the train room, on my workbench and to replace a fixture in the entryway of my house. I don't know if I like this hobby, I seem to be making my own honey-do list as I go.... lol. And I haven't even touched on scenery....

[jbrock27]

I don't like these myself, but maybe you want to consider these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280897951122?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Best advice I can give on replacement trucks is if you know you have several cars to do that you want to replace the trucks on, buy the trucks in bulk off the net, that is the best buy, least expensive way, to go about it.  Want to know more, PM me  

I also would not go on your "Mad Scientist" rampage about the bolster holes.  Really, it is piece of cake to use the styrene tubes and it will hold the screws just fine.  No need to put yourself through torturous machinations.

[jbrock27]

jbrock, the cars I'm working on, I bought because they were cheap enough to learn on without risking any $$$.

Yep, I get that 

[Deland]

 Hadn't thought of those. And I got to quit looking at this stuff. Those reminded me that I need to build a mini forge for a friend who is a knifemaker. If I don't remember I don't gotta do it. But he is a great guy and I am just building the forge because he did a solid for the family without any thought of recompense. Probably only a 4 hour project but I could use that time to play electrician or bodyman or trainman or........

[electrical whiz kid]

Deland;
My two cents worth:
I have long used 'Tichy train Group  (tichytraingroup.com) as one of my sources for parts.  Take a few minutes and visit (when you have time...).  They have parts for rolling stock as well as buildings; their parts are top quality...And the price, nine times out of ten, is right.  The instructions are clear, concise, and I think you will be very satisfied.
Tools will make or break you; if you have junk to work with, that is what you will produce.
Grandt line is another good parts company.  Cliff Grandt started it many years back, and his kid(s) are now at the helm since his passing.  Good quality parts, prices not too bad.  A lot of what they catalogue is for narrow gauge, but more are for standard gauge, and diesels.
The web can be your best friend here; there are a lot of companies. 
I got started working with plastic with an article in MR some years back, on how to build a diesel out of plastic stock.  It was, I believe, an RS-11-and that fired my enthusiasm for plastic.  Nowadays, there are a lot of suppliers; Evergreen Plastics among them. 
I have skirted brass for a good reason:  If you have no metal-working skills, try to avoid it until you have developed a level of comfort with ability.
OK; just some thoughts on this stuff.  By the way, what part of Texas do you come from?  I got stationed in Amarillo (461st bomb wing) just out of  tech school.  The people there are the greatest!  God bless them.

Rich C.

[jbrock27]

Tichy train Group  (tichytraingroup.com).  They have parts for rolling stock as well as buildings; their parts are top quality...

Rich C.

Absolutely! 

As I had mentioned earlier, their trucks are good.  I prefer the single piece ones as opposed to the ones you assemble.  They can also be found at places like MTS for a good price, in bulk and they come with their own plastic wheel sets, which I don't like myself.  As I had also mentioned earlier, I found that some metal wheel-sets do not work in them (too tight even using "The Tool") but found Intermountain wheel sets work well in them, at least for the Roller Bearing one piece trucks that Tichy sells.