removing sound board

[Irbricksceo]

So I've just about had it with my 2-10-0. Its constantly disappointed me with its relatively poor running, low speed (WAY too low), frequent stalls, and the fact that to get it moving at any decent rate when pulling just 8 cars, you need to throttle it to max (which defeats the purpose of sound since the chuff rate is ridiculous). Now, I love the 2-10-0, but its driving me crazy. On a whim I plugged it into the tender from a 2-8-0 and the running quality improved dramatically. Now, I like the sound and all, but its not worth this headache. I happen to have a decoder from a 2-8-0 that had an... accident, and as such was wondering how much wwork I need to do to swap the sound board in the 2-10-0 with a plain decoder.

[electrical whiz kid]

The tender for the 2-10-0 is pretty straightforward, so it shouldn't be too difficult for anyone who has had a nominal amount of hands-on here.  I bought mine sans decoders a while ago, and have acquired a couple of them since.  I am doing some work on the newer stuff, say-"modernizing" them into a 2-8-2-and by George, it is working; even installing that delta trailing truck.  Now, I have some old DCC modules from NCE and am going to install them, along with as much weight as I can  possibly get into it's bod.  In one of those tenders, I installed the decoder-on it's side!  Just installed some double-faced "100MPH' tape, and slammed it in.   Everything sits nice and comfy...  Made a  few other minor changes...as well.
SO......If I can do it...
As an aside, I like to tinker with this stuff; I am no slave of prototype, and have a stable full of "customized" iron horseys.

RichC.

[Irbricksceo]

Opening the tender is not the hard part, what I'm confused about is what I have to leave in and what I can take out for the sound. Granted, I could tear the whole lot of it and hardwire but I'd rather not.