Help with layout

[passport_7777]

Hi-

I have zero experience with model railroading, but recently decided I wanted to add a train to my Christmas village.  The Rail Chief set is my top choice right now because it reminds me of the BNSF trains that run here in Washington. It is also a good price point for me, as I do not need anything fancy for what I am doing.

The track that comes with the set is 47"x38" which will not work for the space I am putting it in.  I have no problem purchasing additional track pieces, but I am beyond confused as to which ones I would need. The length is pretty obvious to me, but I am unsure on which radius pieces I would need for the ends.

The space I will be working with is 26"x5ft long. If it is a little bit narrower or longer (I technically have 8ft to work with), that is fine with me.  I am not too picky. Can anyone tell me which track pieces I will need?

I'm very serious about doing this as soon as I can. We are very into the holidays, so I would love to get it setup!

Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You in advance for your time.

[jbrock27]

Hmmm, you could be up against it my friend if you are set on using sectional, roadbed track and that loco that comes with the set. I imagine the set comes with 18"R curved sections?  To use those and make a half circle, you need to use 6 of them and need to have 42" of space to work with.  I don't know if using 15"R curves gets you around that problem; or if Bachmann sells them and if they did, I don't know how your GP40 would look running on them and more importantly, effectively run on 15"R curves.

You could try using the Anyrail program which is free for up to 50 pieces of track and see if you can formulate a layout plan that will work for your space.  Lots of mention of Anyrail here, do a Search here and you will find all the info your heart could desire.  I am sorry I did not have better input to share.

[Len]

If your space is only 26" wide, you have a problem. The smallest sectional curve commonly available in HO is 15" radius, 30" diameter, measured to the center of the track. Which means it's actually a bit wider measuring to the outside of the ties.

Which means either finding a "switching layout" track plan you like, or exchanging the HO set for a 'N' scale set that has curves that will fit your space. Plugging "HO switching layout plan" into a search engine should bring up plenty of track plans.

Len

[ACY]

You need at least a 3' by 3' area to make an oval/circle layout in HO scale if you intend to run anything other thana two axle trolley or gandy dancer. Mind you, it is possible to run maybe an EMD model 40 critter but you would not even be able to run 40' cars on anything tighter than 15" radius.
So one option is to get 15" radius if you are able to manage a 3' by 3' area, if you can only manage the 26" in the one dimension, 15" radius will not fit.
Option 2 would be to buy an N scale set which has several radius options to choose from that will fit on your available space but the train is much smaller.

[jward]

note that the set you are looking at is not recommended for 15r curves. if you want to use this set you will need a minimum of 38" wide by 47" long. I would not use smaller curves than what are in the set.

[passport_7777]

Thank you very much for the info. I'm disappointed it won't work, but better to find out now.

[jward]

it will work fine, just not in the area you have allotted for it. as a matter of fact there isn't much in HO other than streetcars that will work in that space. you need to widen your allotted space to fit the curves, not try to force everything to fit in inadequate space.

[Aiosa]

Hello All:

I am in a "similar" situation. I am just starting out and going slow. I purchased the Bachmann HO Thoroughbred Electric Train Set with the F7 Diesel locomotive. The set comes with 18 inch radius curves (E-Z Track ) to complete the oval, but I would like to purchase the 15 inch radius curves to reduce my overall width. I would like to know if the locomotive and freight cars that come with that set will function nicely on a 15" radius semicircle?

Follow up question:  Can I start a turn using 18" radius E-Z track and then make the turn "tighter" using 15" radius E-Z track to complete the turn? 

All responses are appreciated.

Thank You

[Hunt]

. . . I purchased the Bachmann HO Thoroughbred Electric Train Set with the F7 Diesel locomotive. The set comes with 18 inch radius curves (E-Z Track ) to complete the oval, but I would like to purchase the 15 inch radius curves to reduce my overall width. I would like to know if the locomotive and freight cars that come with that set will function nicely on a 15" radius semicircle? . . .

No. will not function nicely on 15" radius.

Follow up question:  Can I start a turn curve using 18" radius E-Z track and then make the turn curve radius "tighter" using 15" radius E-Z track . . .

Yes, using 18", 15",15" 15", 15", 18"

[Aiosa]

Hunt,

Thank You for the quick response and for teaching me some correct terminology! 

[Aiosa]

Hello All,

I think that I understand the concept of DC Block Control and would like to run through my thoughts to see if I am correct, before I follow through on my plan.

Using the "right hand rule" where my right rail is the (+) lead and the left rail is the (-) lead, all I have to do is replace the metal joiners with plastic joiners, on the left rail of the two track pieces that bookend the segment of track that I want to "isolate", and then simply attach another power pack to the segment that I "Isolated".

Is that correct?

Your assistance is appreciated.

Thank You

[Hunt]

Aiosa,

An aside --- With most all new locomotives being factory equipped with DCC decoder, why are you wiring for DC Cab Control and not DCC control? The wiring is less expensive for DCC than DC Cab Control. Why control blocks of track instead of locomotives?

My questions are rhetorical - thus no answer expected.

[jbrock27]

Using the "right hand rule" where my right rail is the (+) lead and the left rail is the (-) lead, all I have to do is replace the metal joiners with plastic joiners, on the left rail of the two track pieces that bookend the segment of track that I want to "isolate", and then simply attach another power pack to the segment that I "Isolated".

Is that correct?

Yes, but opposite. You only need the insulated rail joiner on the + rail side of things to break into blocks.  The - side stays as the "Common".  Then you will need to bring power to those isolated sections, past the insulated rail joiner, typically routing the power through an single pole, double throw toggle switch if you use two DC power packs and the Common Rail system of wiring things.  If only using one power pack, a single pole, single throw switch would do to turn the power on/off to the isolated section of track.

[jward]

it really doesn't matter which rail you gap, as long as all gaps are on that rail. remember that with dc power, every time you reverse direction you also reverse polarity.

as jbrock has stated, the individual blocks are then wired to toggle or slide switches to kill power to the sections of track where you want to park something. by going with the single pole double throw switches, you have the provision to add a second controller if you so choose. in order to do this, the spst switches MUST have a center off position. a simple either/or type switch will not allow you to isolate a track if you have two controllers.

if done correctly, the block switches will allow either controller to connect to any track, and also allow power to be cut to any track as well.

also note that the "common" rail of the layout would also be connected to BOTH controllers.

[jbrock27]

it really doesn't matter which rail you gap, as long as all gaps are on that rail.

also note that the "common" rail of the layout would also be connected to BOTH controllers.

Thanks Jeff, but wouldn't you want the - to be your Common rail then bc you are going to be connecting the "negatives" of the 2 packs together, not the "positives" and therefore you want to keep the - rail intact and break up (isolate) the + rail where you wanted to?