0-6-0 Porter w/side tank

[laser3957]

I want to start a new HO layout themed in the '30's or 40's and "backwoods" type branch line setting using the side tank porter 0-6-0 in a logging and/or mining type scene. But this new layout would have limited space (32" width) requiring 15" radius curves at two ends. Does anyone know if the 0-6-0 porter side tank will consistently and safely negotiate 15" radius curves? I know is states "runs best on 18" radius" but that is usually stated as a most preferred radius for any locomotive. I really don't want to order 2 of the unlettered 0-6-0's only to find out they are constantly derailing on 15" radius. Anyone have any first hand experience with them operating on anything less than 18" radius?  And yes, I know if they do operate on 15" radius that I would be limited to short rolling stock, 40' and less with 4 or 5 car trains, and slow speeds. That is exactly what I want.   Thanks.   Jerry

[RAM]

You did not say how long the layout will be.  If it is long enough, you could make a two layer switching layout.  With a mine on the upper deck, and a interchange yard on the lower.  Now if you only have 8 feet this will not work.,

[J3a-614]

This is just speculation, but I think you'll be safe with the Porter 0-6-0T on 15" radius curves.  I have the Backmann 2-8-0 (doesn't everybody?   ), and I've run it on curves that tight on a Christmas exhibition layout, and it didn't have problems and is much larger than the Porter.  

In fact, the main problem regarding rolling stock on the tight curves on that tiny layout involved the brake gear on the 40-foot cars that were used.  At least one car, perhaps several, has the wheels turning so far under the car they started to rub some of the brake rodding.  It did make for something that sounded like flange squeal!    Unfortunately, I also wound up with some of the rods coming loose and the wheels wearing a notch in a plastic rod on one car.

Real main problems on that railroad--both caused by the high "mileage" the equipment ran up--included  very heavy dirt buildup on wheels ("inside" set), and some amazing wear patterns in the track (outside rail on the curves) and on the one switch.  The latter was an old Atlas Snap Switch with a plastic frog, and the locomotive and cars all had metal wheels, and the wear on that frog was simply amazing at the end of the season.

A lot like what the prototype deals with, actually!

If you can, borrow a small 0-6-0 or other similar engine from somebody, say something like the Bachmann USRA 0-6-0.  That engine can run without its tender, and you can test it on some of your tighter curves in mock-up form.  If it will take them, you can bet the Porter will, too.  

I would be surprised if it couldn't!

[J3a-614]

One other thing to keep in mind--even with a small industrial style layout like what you are planning, try to work in "easemented"  or "transitioned" curves.  Basically this means not going directly from straight track to 15" radius, but using a short piece of greater radius to lead into it.  The prototype does this with a cubic transition spiral, doing so not only on main lines, but in industrial settings and even on street railways.  You can actually duplicate that with flex track, approximating the spiral with somthing that naturally flexes (like a thin stick), or even just eyeball it, and it makes a world of difference in that you don't have some of the extreme coupler angles between cars you would get without such a transition.  In fact, there are cars that will negotiate a tighter radius with a transition curve than a direct curve for just this reason.

[Skarloey Railway]

The need for 15" curves is predicated on this being an oval or 'roundy-roundy' design. There is absolutely no reason why this need be so. In fact, it's really a lot better if it isn't a roundy-roundy because real railroads actually went somewhere.

Consider this map of one of the most famous mining RRs in the US, the Gilpin Tramway.

Then do some maths and consider how much real estate your layout covers, add in some (probably a lot) of compression, and see what you come up with.
Depending on the length you have, you might have a switchback at one end rather than a 15" radius. You might, in the depth you have, get a switchback at both ends as the RR climbs. Add in an ore chute or mine, a water tank, a siding for trains to pass and you have operations to perform.
Small staging yards at each end deal with the 'rest' of the railroad and will allow you to work trains in a realistic manner. There are some excellent compact designs for staging yards out there. The cassette system might work well for a line with few locos and cars.
You also get to see the whole layout from one side and have a lot of depth to the scene allowing space for really impressive scenic work.

You'll also, and this is important, have the kind of layout most people don't have because most people unwittingly design their model railroads to look like other model railroads.

[laser3957]

Thank you. I really do appreciate the helpful information. This is not my first layout but I will also be the first to admit that I don't know nearly as much or nearly as skilled as many in the hobby, but I do know what I want and enjoyed previously. I enjoy some switching operations and I also enjoy watching that "roundy-round" now and then. To me it's sort of like standing on a bridge watching the stream below flow under that bridge. For me it's just kind of peaceful and relaxing. I can hide a good portion of the "roundy-round" affect in scenery but still get to hear and see traffic moving by now and then while I'm in the process of setting out and picking up other cars.

@J3a-614.....Thank you for some good info. Once you mentioned the easement curves I immediately remembered back to my dad telling me that same thing many many years ago. He always referred to them as compound curves. This was consistently done in railroads to "setup" a train for sharper curves ahead. And space will allow me to work that into the curves. So thank you for the good info as well as the good memories involved. And yes, I am fully aware of some of the concerns I will be dealing with as far as the trucks, axles, wheels, clearances and whatnot. I love a good challenge and I also love scratchbuilding some unique equipment that might be necessary to "fit the bill" of this particular operation.

Actually what I'm shooting for in this layout is something comparable to some of the small On30 layouts you see. Small and short equipment in tight areas.  But I don't have enough space to do what I want with the O scale structures, so that is why I am trying to recreate something similar only in HO scale which will allow me just a little bit more structure space.

And again, I hope I did not upset anyone who did offer me any alternate suggestions. That was not my intention. But all I really want to know was if anyone knew if Bachmann's little 0-6-0 will get around 15" radius. And following a couple suggestions I'll probably just carry some 15" track around in case I come across one somewhere and give her a road test. Thanks again.

[Len]

Another option for really tight space would be HOn2-1/2 (a.k.a. HOn30), 2-1/2 foot (30inch) narrow gauge. This is HO scale equipment running on N-gauge track. Similar to the On2-1/2 (On30) 'O' scale narraw gauge equipment, running on HO track, Bachmann makes.

That would let you bring your curves down into the 9-3/4" to 11" radius range.

Len

[J3a-614]

Thank you for the kind comments, Laser, I am looking forward to seeing what your track plan looks like, and what your other rolling equipment will look like (some of that industrial stuff can be as interesting as the motive power)!  Hope to see plans and photos soon!