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Countering Sound Stalls

Started by Irbricksceo, September 12, 2015, 01:26:58 PM

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Irbricksceo

Hello, anybody know any tips for preventing my only sound loco from occasionally stalling, especially on switches. All my locos will stall on rare occasions since I'm apparently incapable of cleaning my track, but only the 2-10-0 does it with rather annoying frequency.
Modeling NYC in N

rogertra

I have three sound 2-10-0s.  Two run perfectly and one always has trouble with stalling.  It's currently a roundhouse queen.
So I'd like to see some tips and ideas as well.

All three ran well on straight DC, the problems started when DCC decoders were installed.


Cheers

Roger T.

Len

Decoders are very sensitive to any interruption to the DCC signal, so clean track and pick-up wheels are a necessaty. Way more so than running with DC.

Len
If at first you don't succeed, throw it in the spare parts box.

richardl

Rather common knowledge when researching DCC.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm

Stay alive, keep alive. Current keeper. Different names.

Yahoo SoundTraxx DCC Group has many discussions about different versions.

Google DCC stay alive. You will find many, many links.

Super caps in series with a diode and resistor.

Powered frogs are usually a necessity.

Rich

rogertra

Quote from: richardl on September 12, 2015, 04:10:42 PM
Rather common knowledge when researching DCC.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm

Stay alive, keep alive. Current keeper. Different names.

Yahoo SoundTraxx DCC Group has many discussions about different versions.

Google DCC stay alive. You will find many, many links.

Super caps in series with a diode and resistor.

Powered frogs are usually a necessity.

Rich

Yes, I know all this but my question is,  "Why do two of my three 2-10-0s run fine and one doesn't?"

I know, there can be numerous problems one of which is the design of the 2-10-0, which has always been a temperamental model subject to manufacturing batch variations and other issues.

Cheers

Roger T.

Brewman

Make sure all the wheels that are supposed to pick up power are connected. I was having problems with another brand locomotive cutting out also. I kept thinking "this thing has 12 wheels to pickup power, why would it find a dead spot?" I finally did a continuity check with a meter and found one side of the front truck was not connected. Once I fixed that, it should work better.

electrical whiz kid

Wheels are probably less than the best way to pick up power.  If you contemplate a prototype "motor", they all had shoes which ran either on a third rail, or overhead, on the "clothesline".
To all who might be interested, two options:  You can buy a pickup system from "Tomar", or build one yourself.  These take a pretty sharp eye to see, if they are done properly.  These systems are dependable-more so than wheels, as they slide on the rail, thus making a pressure held steady contact with the electrical system.
In the past, I have used phosphor bronze sheet-metal, and etched them, then shaped and "pig-tailed" them.  Just like gang-busters, guys.

RIch C.

ryeguyisme

Quote from: electrical whiz kid on September 13, 2015, 01:32:47 PM
Wheels are probably less than the best way to pick up power.  If you contemplate a prototype "motor", they all had shoes which ran either on a third rail, or overhead, on the "clothesline".
To all who might be interested, two options:  You can buy a pickup system from "Tomar", or build one yourself.  These take a pretty sharp eye to see, if they are done properly.  These systems are dependable-more so than wheels, as they slide on the rail, thus making a pressure held steady contact with the electrical system.
In the past, I have used phosphor bronze sheet-metal, and etched them, then shaped and "pig-tailed" them.  Just like gang-busters, guys.

RIch C.

It would be neat if you could show me how to do this, I've always been tanking of techniques to improve power pickup on engines  ;D

Irbricksceo

i'm intrigued by this keep alive device you mentioned. I'd toyed with the idea of trying to use a cap of some sort but I don't know enough about decoders to feel safe just jumping in on this. I know my track could stand to be cleaner, I just havent found a good method.
Modeling NYC in N

jbrock27

Wahl Clipper Oil Brick, on a rag or cosmetic q-tip.
Keep Calm and Carry On

electrical whiz kid

Jim;
I have read several times about someone using transmission fluid-sparingly.  I was reminded of a product called "RAIL-ZIP".  It looks, and (to me) smells like a dead ringer, but I recluse myself from qualification.
I have used all three-tranny oil, rail zip, and Wahl's, all with similar results.  Use this stuff like it costs a million dollars an ounce.
-Still, nothing replaces a good maintenance record of when done last, and how; and good old-fashioned elbow-grease.
When I was a member of TAMR, one of the members gave me several emery blocks, and they really did the trick also; just use the block like a "bright boy"  and then wipe down afterward to pick up the dirt and crud.

Rich C.


jbrock27

I have read about that as well Rich, but never used or had to use, ATF or Rail Zip as I have found the Wahl's works.  Don't have any ATF around, all the vehicles I ever owned, never had a transmission fluid leak and well, the Rail Zip is pricey compared to the Wahl's.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Trainman203

Quote " my question is,  "Why do two of my three 2-10-0s run fine and one doesn't?"

I've got three operable decs also, and have fought the same battle.  The problem is certainly at a contact point in that individual  engine / tender. 

The back sides of the driver tires could need cleaning. 

The wipers on the engine frame are probably dirty too, and often get lint balls collected on them, a can of spray air usually gets those out.  Cleaning the wipers is hard. They are attached to the frame bottom plate.   You have to take the bottom plate off the frame to get to the wiper surfaces .  Getting it back on, and getting all those driver wipers back in place is like, as I heard it so well put once, "putting socks on a centipede."  Do all the other checks I've listed first to see if resolution happens.  This one is a last resort, believe me.

The tender truck axle wipers get dirty both at axle contact point and bolster contact point.  Remove them and clean those areas with a soft pink pencil eraser.  You'll be surprised how funky they can get.

One of your loco/tender plugs may not quite be in all the way, check that.

Up in the tender, one of the leads to a truck may have separated away.

I've found all of those problem places the long hard way.  I'll bet if you check all that stuff, you'll find something and get that engine running.

Desertdweller

For cleaning track, I have found Crosman Pellgun oil to work well.  While I suspect it is ATF, it comes in a small tube and is easy to apply and keep sealed up.

Put a little on the track and run the train through it.

This is sold for lubricating air guns, especially those operated by CO2.

Les

rogertra

#14
Quote from: Trainman203 on September 15, 2015, 01:06:36 PM
Quote " my question is,  "Why do two of my three 2-10-0s run fine and one doesn't?"

I've got three operable decs also, and have fought the same battle.  The problem is certainly at a contact point in that individual  engine / tender.  

The back sides of the driver tires could need cleaning.  

The wipers on the engine frame are probably dirty too, and often get lint balls collected on them, a can of spray air usually gets those out.  Cleaning the wipers is hard. They are attached to the frame bottom plate.   You have to take the bottom plate off the frame to get to the wiper surfaces .  Getting it back on, and getting all those driver wipers back in place is like, as I heard it so well put once, "putting socks on a centipede."  Do all the other checks I've listed first to see if resolution happens.  This one is a last resort, believe me.

The tender truck axle wipers get dirty both at axle contact point and bolster contact point.  Remove them and clean those areas with a soft pink pencil eraser.  You'll be surprised how funky they can get.

One of your loco/tender plugs may not quite be in all the way, check that.

Up in the tender, one of the leads to a truck may have separated away.

I've found all of those problem places the long hard way.  I'll bet if you check all that stuff, you'll find something and get that engine running.


Thanks for the hints.

Once I get over the feeling of throwing the thing against the wall, I'll give all your hints a try.  :)

Cheers

Roger T.