HELP with conversion to DCC

[ACY]

Bachmann has an 0-6-0 with tender that is DCC ready, and I could likely ask for as a Christmas present, but the description that they give doesn't say anything about sound.  Does anyone know if it comes with sound, or is that something that needs to be added?  Also, if it does come with sound, what's your opinion of it?

The Bachmann 0-6-0 does not come with sound or a speaker nor does it come with any provisions for adding sound. Also Bachmann does not make a DCC ready 0-6-0 with tender, just a DCC equipped version (no sound of course) and an analog DC version with smoke. And in my opinion it would not be a project for someone without a great deal of experience to attempt to add DCC and sound. Adding DCC without sound might be something you might want to try but adding the sound makes it more difficult of an install.  If you are a beginner the better move would be to purchase the Bachmann 2-6-0 Mogul with DCC and sound,  these can often be found for a little over $100 online.

[jonathan]

Can't remember the name, but I once found a guy on line (had his own site) who took the 0-6-0 and used two decoders; one for the motor and lighting (inside the loco), and one basic sound decoder (a digitrax I think) which he installed in the tender.  He installed all wheel pickup on the tender wheels for the sound decoder and kept the locomotive electrically separate from the tender.

Seems like a project that would be easier to handle than trying to completely rework the whole locomotive.  Just sayin'

Plus, Bachmann USRA 0-6-0s with DCC on board also come with smoke generators, with an on/off switch.  Again, just sayin.

Regards,

Jonathan

[ejseider]

I've got 2 tenders (short haul & sloped) for the 0-6-0, which I change out for different run scenarios.  I keep the one that's not being used on a siding.  So, if I wire both of them for sound, do I need to assign different ID nos to each of them?  Where can I get information on setting up the tenders for sound, as described above? Where can I get the wheels, power pick-ups, etc that are needed?  Also, if I want to go against the advice above and try to convert the engine to DCC, how can I get a wiring diagram for it?

PS: I used to build electronic kits (amps, tuners, etc.), so I'm used to wiring and soldering, and I've had the shell off of the 0-6-0 several times already, just looking at what's under the hood.

[ACY]

I've got 2 tenders (short haul & sloped) for the 0-6-0, which I change out for different run scenarios.  I keep the one that's not being used on a siding.  So, if I wire both of them for sound, do I need to assign different ID nos to each of them?  Where can I get information on setting up the tenders for sound, as described above? Where can I get the wheels, power pick-ups, etc that are needed?  Also, if I want to go against the advice above and try to convert the engine to DCC, how can I get a wiring diagram for it?

PS: I used to build electronic kits (amps, tuners, etc.), so I'm used to wiring and soldering, and I've had the shell off of the 0-6-0 several times already, just looking at what's under the hood.

You will need to either store the other tender on a track with a toggle switch or give it a separate address. To put sound in each tender if you are as skilled as you claim to be, it is pretty simple, simply wire in a sound only decoder with speaker like normal, nothing is any different than a "normal" installation. It would be advisable to create a baffle for the speaker and create holes for better sound quality. Any metal wheels with one side insulated will suffice for this, for pick-ups some use brass strips while others prefer other methods for pick up, perhaps someone may suggest their favorite method. As far as a specific wiring diagram goes, I don't think one exists as far as I know, so unless someone here draws one up for you, you may need to figure things out on your own. Good luck

Also there is nothing to the tenders for the 0-6-0, there are no electrical components inside unlike most Spectrum locomotives and other with DCC which generally have tender pick up and a decoder with speaker if applicable inside.

[richardl]

I've got 2 tenders (short haul & sloped) for the 0-6-0, which I change out for different run scenarios.  I keep the one that's not being used on a siding.  So, if I wire both of them for sound, do I need to assign different ID nos to each of them?  Where can I get information on setting up the tenders for sound, as described above? Where can I get the wheels, power pick-ups, etc that are needed?  Also, if I want to go against the advice above and try to convert the engine to DCC, how can I get a wiring diagram for it?

PS: I used to build electronic kits (amps, tuners, etc.), so I'm used to wiring and soldering, and I've had the shell off of the 0-6-0 several times already, just looking at what's under the hood.

Your LHS will carry much of the stuff. Also many online shops.

You will need #30 wire. You can buy the wire online and has the NMRA DCC wire colours. Also 1/16 colour, shrink is nice to insulate wire to wire solder splices. I have done that with a Vandy sound install.
Wire from an old PC mouse is very nice.

The new SoundTraxx Econami decoder is a good choice.

Below is what I did to convert the tender to metal wheels and pickups.

http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/

Miniatronics sells some nice two pin and four pin connectors.

I buy a lot from Litchfield Station. They sell much of the stuff.
For the installation, just follow the NMRA connection instructions. Quite easy with your skills.
There are times you just have to use your imagination.

Google the names I have put in the message. You will get a lot of info with links to store in your PC.

This guy has a lot of good DCC info. He prefers Soundtraxx as does Bachmann.
http://mrdccu.com/

When testing, don't leave any wires loose that might short. Decoders are sensitive and can smoke rather fast.
If new to DCC, take your time. There are Gotchas if you jump too fast. At about seventy to ninety dollars a decoder, you have to0 be careful. SoundTraxx does repair decoders for a decent fee.

The below site has many persons experienced with using DCC and SoundTraxx products and they are discussing the new Econami decoder.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/soundtraxx/info

Rich

[richardl]

Just remembered, decoders come with instructions. Same for all the locos I have done.

Use a nine volt battery to find the proper terminals on the motor for forward direction.

Rich

[richardl]

About five years ago I put a DZ125 decoder in a 0-6-0T but not a Bachmann loco. Just followed the wiring instructions on the decoder. Had to unsolder one motor wire going to the frame. The other motor wire came from the tender. Typical DC setup.
Later I bought a old Bachmann tender and put a SoundTraxx LC decoder into it. I later put a Micro Tsunami into it. The deocder needs a load so I put a 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor across the orange and grey decoder wires for a motor load. That issue is covered in the MR DCC link. A decoder has to have a load for your DCC system to recognize it.

I used two wires between the tender and loco to simulate hoses. Those two wires were from the loco pickups. In addition to the tender pickups, it worked very well.

Rich

[ejseider]

Rich,

Thanks.  This is a big help.  Hopefully I'll have the time to work thru this and do a decent job.

[richardl]

Took me a few weeks as I took my time. Careful planning pays off. Our inner child can be impatient. lol

If you do not have one, get a Photo Bucket account to post pictures here. A picture is worth a thousand words and can help solve an issue much quicker at times if everyone has a clear idea of what you want to do and show results after.

http://photobucket.com/\

Scroll down to General Questions forum for details.

Rich

[ejseider]

I've removed the shell on my Bachmann 0-6-0, and gone thru the insides with my VOM.  The motor shows that it's insulated from the body and the body is in two halves with each half connected to a wheel pick up (right & left) with each half electrically insulated from the other.  There is a red and a black wire from the circuit board (H597X#PCB02, Rev A) to the motor.  Each lead has an insulating sleeve where it attaches to the respective motor terminal.  I assume that I can clip each lead between the circuit board and the motor and solder the respective leads to the decoder.  Correct?

[richardl]

I did not know the 0-6-0 had a PC board. The ones I had at one time, there was no PC board. Exactly which 0-6-0 do you have? I just looked at the three DC only 0-6-0's and there is no PC board inside. The motor terminals connect directly to the frame halves. Maybe Bachmann has changed the design.

Rich

[richardl]

I just remembered, do you have the 0-6-0T? The saddle tank loco.  If you the 0-6-0T, it comes DCC ready. Remove the clips and solder the decoder wires according to the NMRA leads for DCC. I have that loco also and remember seeing the PC board with two clips. The instructions are on the diagram page. I just looked at them. Very easy.

Rich

[ejseider]

I've got the 0-6-0 with tender, not the T.  It does have a pc board.

[ejseider]

It occurred to me that I sent the original loco, which was a gift, into Bachmann for repair.  I sent it without the tender, but received back with a new tender and, I suspect, a new loco instead of the one sent to be repaired.  Could the PC board be a DCC decoder that was included with the replaced loco?  How do I check this?

[richardl]

Not trying to talk down to you. This is part of model railroading. Open up the loco. Do a visual. Use your VOM to verify connections.

Being a retired mechanic, I have had to do this thousands of times over the years.

I looked at all three diagrams for this loco and I do not see a PC board in the loco. I suspect this PC board is a tie point for the wires and headlight in the loco. Two wires for each item. DC is simple.
Bachmann never shows the wiring diagrams except for installing a decoder in the tender and only the seven decoder leads.
I suspect the loco will have a light bulb instead of an LED but I could be wrong on the part. You might see a resistor on the PC board. This is why a picture makes it so much easier for troubleshooting on the Internet.
Your VOM will easily determine that. A light bulb will be under 100 ohms resistance. If your meter shows max resistance, an LED. Then you use a 9 volt battery and 1k, 1/.4 watt resistor to verify an LED. LED's are polarity conscious. I am assuming the LED is ok with a new loco.
If it has a smoke unit, I think it is directly connected to the pickups, maybe via the PC board or might be directly connected to each frame half. To use the decoder for smoke, you need a small relay from Radio Shack. Decoders usually do not have enough power for smoke units.

The NMRA wiring for decoders spells it out. Hope you have taken time to look that up. All decoders come with instructions.
All you have to do is to make sure, no wires going to the motor terminals.

Rich