My Layout

[Len]

Ouch! Sounds like time to try the freezer trick to crack the glue.

In later years, some roads added a door and diaphram to the 'boat tail' end of obsv cars and just stuck them in the middle of the train.

Len

[Desertdweller]

I think the enginehouse is Revell.  This kit went back to the early 1960's and maybe even older.  This series of building kits featured really nice, detailed die work.

Les

[on30gn15]

One thing about these cars that I like is that they can go around my inner curve which is just 18 inch radius

I forget the vintage of Athearn's design for them, but it may well be late 50s, maybe early 60s when layout design practice was generally somewhat different from today's layout design philosophy and practice and tighter curves were more often used, which necessitated shortened cars. They still look good though. And like the rest of their products of that time through the early 90s were solid, sturdy items. Simple, but sturdy. Which was okay by me, the kind of person who enjoys adding at least a few extra details to good basic models.

[electrical whiz kid]

Observation cars did-usually-have a rear coupler; like the "drop-down' mounts on the fore end of locomotives-both passenger steam and diesel.  They were set up on a few different ways, most common was the "drop up" for lack of a ..... coupler, which was swung up from the underside, and locked into place.  In my travels, I had seen more than one observation carting a car-or-even part of-a train astern.
I have never done it, and I've only one lone Athearn streamline observation, which almost would never be used, but like almost anything else, it CAN be done.


Rich C.

[Irbricksceo]

Oh I've no doubt it can be done, and I know it was done in real life, but since I really can't fit it on the layout, I see no reason to undertake it. whenever I feel like running it, I just put it on and take it off when I'm done.

[Irbricksceo]

well, on a hunch I tested the resistance to rolling of the observation car (which has no lights) to the others (with lighting) and the observation one rolls MUCH better. Guess the lighting kit is causing a great amount of the issue. I don't know this freezing trick but I'm pretty sure I can figure it out. I must say... I ran the full set of four earlier behind one of my 2-8-0's... It is a damn handsome train.


One other thing that you guys might find interesting before I let this all go, the layout was how I discovered that my room is not level. See, the table wasn't built for the room, it belonged to my grandfather, then it was mine many years ago, then it went to his storage when I moved to GA, and now its back with me. Anyway, I noticed that my weaker locomotives were slowing to a crawl or even stalling if they were going slow, when going around a certain section of track. More specifically, the curve that leads to the back part of the layout. It Let me tell you, if I though the chuff per revolution dissonance annoyed me off my only sound loco before, this is far worse. Anyway, I had a suspicion I knew why so I set just one car on the back part of the curve, it rolled to the front. Out came the level to confirm, yep, the foundation is higher in the back than towards the front. there is a grade and it is causing my locos trouble. I'm sure if I wanted to go through the process of leveling the track I could, I just don't have the energy to figure that particular thing out atm.

Anyway, just something neat.

[jbrock27]

I don't know this freezing trick but I'm pretty sure I can figure it out.

If you do, let us know. I am curious to learn how the freezing trick doesn't cause the plastic to become so brittle that it does not break when you are trying to separate it.  The freezing trick did not work for me when I tried to remove a stubborn flywheel from its shaft   (In fairness, I say this not knowing what,  if any, adhesive had been used, an Ebay buy after all ).

[Len]

Freezing is the wrong method for flywheels. For brass flywheels you want to use a hair dryer, or heat gun, to warm up the brass so it expands. That opens the hole, making it easier to remove with a small gear or flywheel puller.

Len

[jbrock27]

Funny, that is what someone suggested, would have to look up to see whom.  Somone else suggested heat.  That didn't work either, but life went on.  The only reason I was looking to remove it in the first place, was to  clean the slots in the commutator with a #11 Xacto blade and be able to chuck the motor portion only in a drill to properly clean the commutator with a softer version cleaning block.  The motor still runs great even for not being able to do that part of the cleansing process. 

[Len]

When my shop was still open, I used one of those Woodland Scenics heat guns (gets VERY hot) to heat the flywheel. I clipped leads to the motor to make it spin so it would heat evenly. The heat would loosen the flywheel glue, if any, and expand the brass enough so the flywheel came off fairly easily using a NWSL Puller. Definately need the heat resistant glove that comes with the heat gun to handle the motor while it's hot.

Len

[jbrock27]

Thanks for the info Len.  What brand motor was this?  I know about the wheel puller, could not justify the cost for one flywheel.  If I had a paint remover heat gun, I would try that but don't have one; can't justify buying the WS gun, again, for just one flywheel.

[Len]

As this was part of my repair shop business, before I retired, several brands of motors were involved. HO mostly involved Athearn, pulling the flywheel for remotor jobs. But also some 'S' and 'O' can motors with flywheels I had to pull for reuse. Mainly because the customer didn't want to pay the extra few $$ for a new motor with a flywheel already installed.

Len

[James in FL]

I am curious to learn how the freezing trick doesn't cause the plastic to become so brittle that it does not break when you are trying to separate it.

Yeah the plastic does get brittle and probably everyone that attempts freezing to separate parts has experienced broken plastic away from the joint. It happens, but just once or twice before you can pretty much know how much stress you can inflict on it before that happens.
I generally freeze about 2-3 hours, although I have left parts in the freezer for days.
I find that when frozen its best to try to break the bond rather suddenly rather than by a slow bending or flexing.
The object of the freezing is to get the plastic not to flex.
I've tapped on parts with a nylon rod, a sharp strike, but nowhere near hard enough to crunch or crush something.
I've also dropped parts, from about a foot, onto the workbench or a kitchen counter.
Prying, twisting, flexing at the joint as needed.
If you don't break the bond within the first minute or so, re freeze it before trying again.
In Irbricksceo situation, were it me, I would remove everything possible off the car, couplers, trucks diaphragms and any other detail parts ladders, grabs, etc.
Then I'd freeze it for a couple hours after which I would take it out and drop it on its roof, and/or sides to start.

I don't know this freezing trick but I'm pretty sure I can figure it out.

You will and in short order.

Good luck

[jbrock27]

...several brands of motors were involved. HO mostly involved Athearn

Thank you Len.  I was hoping to gain some insight from your answer into this statement:

I clipped leads to the motor to make it spin so it would heat evenly.

But I am not following which part of the motor (or which kind) you are referring to here.

James, thank you for the explanation and information .

[Len]

I removed the motor from the loco and connected wires with alligator clips from an MRC power pack to the power connections on the motor. Then applied enough voltage to get the motor spinning slowly so the flywheel was rotating when I applied the heat. That way the flywheel heated evenly, instead of only getting hot on one side.

Len