Wiring Diagram For EZ Track DCC Crossovers and Turnouts

[kdgrant6]

I have several EZ Track crossovers and turnouts that I would like to be able to control with my control panel buttons or toggles rather than with my NCE Power Cab.  I also want to have red/green light identification for turnout position. 

Before I take apart the  bottom of an  EZ Track turnout, I'd like to know which wire operates what.

I'd appreciate an help with this matter.

[jbrock27]

Perhaps this can provide some of the assistance for info being sought:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30003.msg220978.html#msg220978

[jbrock27]

...and this, courtesy of my pal Jerry, may provide some additional helpful, info:

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,27140.0.html

[kdgrant6]

Thanks, Jim, but the instructions' link in Jerry's post is for the non-DCC powered turnouts.  Wires are attached to those.  In a DCC turnout or crossover, the wires are hidden in plastic compartments under the unit--at least for the turnout I checked.  Before I moved ahead with this idea, I was just wondering which wires did what.  The other post that Jerry had is probably what I need--the green wire needs to connect to both momentary switches.

[jbrock27]

My mistake for reading the body of your post and not the title.  How embarrassing

At least I now know what the underside of a DCC turnout looks like, so thanks for the multiple lessons.

[jbrock27]

PS: How possible is it for you to remove the screws from that metal cover?  If the machine is the same kinda coil as on "regular' switch machines, maybe there is hope...Others would know better if they are the same or not and if there can be a chance of  modifying one to work like a "regular" switch machine does, using 3 wires to operate it.

[kdgrant6]

Thought I'd post the pics I took this afternoon of the Bachmann EZ Command DCC Turnout -  Right - Item No. 44131

I removed the screws for the plate in the back that covers the physical switching mechanism on the right.  The decoder is on the left covered with tape.  The electronic switching mechanism is in the center:




This is a close-up of the wires leading from the decoder on the left into the electronic switching mechanism.  I removed the black tape for the shot.  Underneath the wires are metal frog connectors.




This is a close up of the physical switcher on the right.




It seems to me that it would be beyond my capabilities to adapt this turnover and two others, much less two DCC crossovers, so that I could control the turnout and lights from my control panel.

On the other hand, I'm fully capable of having construed all of this wrong and that the answer might be much simpler than it appears to my unpracticed eye.

I would hope an answer I can follow is posted in this thread.  

Ken

[richardl]

To operate signals or lights, you need a closure. Pair of contacts.

Usually Bachmann turnouts have been twin coil machines.
No idea how Bachmann controls twin coils with a decoder if that is what is inside the metal box. No idea if DCC turnouts flip quickly like standard turnouts.

I would remove the metal cover and see what is inside.

Rich

[Len]

First, put the plastic cover back before the mechanical parts fall out. You shouldn't have to mess with them.

Remove the metal cover next to the mechanical mechanism, and you'll see that it's a twin coil solanoid type machine. There should be a wire going to the end of each coil, and either one or two tied together going to the middle. Those are the ones you want. The rest are for getting power to the decoder.

Len

[kdgrant6]

Thanks, Len, I'll look under there.  Sounds like more trouble than I want to take on.

[jbrock27]

Glad to learn I was on the right track after all....

[kdgrant6]

Yes.  Thanks to Jim, too.  He suggested it earlier in the thread.  He also shared a video about connecting the wires. Rather than splicing them, you just remove a bit of the insulation, wrap the connecting wire around it, and solder the connection.

Very helpful, indeed.  I might be able to do that.

I guess it doesn't matter which wire controls the divergent or main.  I could just switch the connections to the push buttons on my panel. 

Jim, also made that very helpful suggestion.

Thanks, Jim.

[jbrock27]

As Rob Schneider would say Ken, "you can do it!!"

Your welcome. Glad I could help  

I guess it doesn't matter which wire controls the divergent or main.  I could just switch the connections to the push buttons on my panel.  

You are correct Ken, it does not.  The Common or Return is the important one.  What I would do, if you are going to have more than one of these set up this way, is to wire up a barrier strip that has the Common coming to it from the power source, then have the Common wires from each turnout connected to that barrier strip.  Do something similar with one set up for the "hot" coming from the power source.  Then you can run one  "hot" wire from that barrier strip , to each one of your momentary push buttons and then a wire  from each push button to the turnout (two buttons for each turnout).  Stick with consistent wire colors, like green and red (and use that same color pattern for the color of the butttons too) and black for the common, to make life easy for any potential trouble shooting.

[richardl]

A Circuitron Snapper is a very good device for operating twin coil machines. It operates 0n AC or DC.

Once in a while someone has burned out a twin coil by holding down the push button switch to long if the points hang up. The Snapper eliminates this issue.
You can hold the button down with the Snapper and the coil will not be damaged. It has current limiting.

Rich

[jbrock27]

Secret: don't hold the button down.