Metal Wheels vs Plastic Wheels

[jbrock27]

also don't forget the Cadillac of metal wheels, nwsl. those have to be the best on the market, but they are pricey.

I didn't but you can keep them for that reason .

as for the Bachmann silver series cars, most of them are just train set cars with added weight and metal wheels. I know places where I can buy the non silver series cars for 6 or 7 bucks, and invest a couple more bucks for metal wheels and weight, and have a nice running car for about half the price of the same car in silver series.

This must represent a sea change for you:

there are a few old train set cars, like the 60 foot boxcars tyco made, that I could see upgrading. but the days when everything had to be built are over, so there is no incentive for me to buy cars that need to be upgraded when I can get good running stuff that's ready to roll when I take it out of the box.

I recall your suggesting more often than not, validly, that to spend money to upgrade old cars was a foolish investment when you can buy the above and have it run well right out of the box, as you stated above.  And for large part I would agree with you, unless you can get a decent looking car inexpensively or you purchased it a long time ago. 
I also, know places where I can get a Silver Series car for just few more bucks that what you're finding the old Bachamann cars for.  I would also point out that not all "old" Bachmann cars are created equal; just bc they came out before the Silver Series, doesn't mean they are all the same quality (see candy colored shiny cars with talgo trucks and horn hook couplers).

And even though the major differences are weight and wheel sets,  I do think the detailing of the Silver Series is better, w/o being over the top.

[Trainman203]

Don't Bachmann wheelsets have a different shape axle end than intermountain, Kadee, or Proto wheelsets?

[jbrock27]

Are you really asking, why, for example, would a Proto wheel set, fit a Bachmann plastic truck?

[electrical whiz kid]

Trainman;
Not in an essential way.  There is a tool you might want to check out:  It is a reaming tool, you can find it on "Micro-mark".  You take out the wheel-set, insert the tool, and rotate it.  I use a rubber pad about a foot long, and just run the whole along that once or twice-it is usually enough.  I then check the bore for bits of swarf; then, after a puff of graphite powder, insert the new (or old-what-have-you) wheel-set, check for smoothness, and if all is well, you are set.

Rich C.

[jbrock27]

A Truck Tuner can also help to get any wheelsets you have trouble getting rolling, to roll better as long as it is not a matter of the wheel set axles being too long for the truck. 

[rogertra]

Must get me a truck tuner.  I've three or four cars with wheels that squeak.  Hotboxs in the making.   

Cheers

Roger T.

[jward]

as for the Bachmann silver series cars, most of them are just train set cars with added weight and metal wheels. I know places where I can buy the non silver series cars for 6 or 7 bucks, and invest a couple more bucks for metal wheels and weight, and have a nice running car for about half the price of the same car in silver series.

This must represent a sea change for you:

there are a few old train set cars, like the 60 foot boxcars tyco made, that I could see upgrading. but the days when everything had to be built are over, so there is no incentive for me to buy cars that need to be upgraded when I can get good running stuff that's ready to roll when I take it out of the box.

I recall your suggesting more often than not, validly, that to spend money to upgrade old cars was a foolish investment when you can buy the above and have it run well right out of the box, as you stated above.  And for large part I would agree with you, unless you can get a decent looking car inexpensively or you purchased it a long time ago. 
I also, know places where I can get a Silver Series car for just few more bucks that what you're finding the old Bachamann cars for.  I would also point out that not all "old" Bachmann cars are created equal; just bc they came out before the Silver Series, doesn't mean they are all the same quality (see candy colored shiny cars with talgo trucks and horn hook couplers).

And even though the major differences are weight and wheel sets,  I do think the detailing of the Silver Series is better, w/o being over the top.

there is no sea change for me here. once again you are misinterpreting what was said. the cars I refer to upgrading are not the old cars with horn hooks couplers mounted on the trucks. those are still not worth my time and effort to upgrade. no, the sea change came when Bachmann retooled those cars for body mounted knuckle couplers and rp25 wheels. once they did that the hard work was done, and it is now simple and inexpensive to bring them up to silver series standards.

[jbrock27]

I don't think I misinterpreted what you said, bc above, is exactly what you had said.  What was misinterpreted was what you meant and I thank you for clarifying you mean those kind of "old" Bachmann cars.

You must also replace the couplers on those too, no?

[jward]

on the newer cars I run the plastic knuckle couplers until they give me problems, then I replace with metal  (usually kadee 5 or 148)   as long as the couplers are working well I leave them alone.


btw, my preference for metal wheels on my cars stems more from the sound them make rolling down the track than anything else.

[jbrock27]

How long before the plastic springs on the older version of the EZ Mates gives out?  Have any issues getting Kadees to fit in those stock coupler boxes?

I agree, the sound is very cool

[Len]

The original EZ-Mate plastic springs seem to fail depending on the phase of the moon. I've had some fail in a couple of months, others took years. I got tired of trains seperating in the middle a while back, and went completely to metal spring couplers.

My preference on metal wheels is Intermountain for most things. In part, because they sell 'bulk' boxes of 100 wheelsets. For a few cars with odd ball axle ends or lengths, I get them from Reboxx.

For a lot of cars that come with thin plastic couplers, the box cover has 'lips' so it sets down into the box. To use Kadee's, or other couplers with thicker shanks, all you do is flip the coupler box cover over so it sits on top of the box insted of into it.

Len

[electrical whiz kid]

Hey Jeff;
If you want to hear something really cool, take an Athearn streamline passenger car, change the wheels, couplers, etc., load about four or five ounces of weight in it and run it.  It will pick up imperfections in your track-work, and sound hauntingly similar to the real McCoy.  That "thump-thump" thud does sound good.
Rich C.

[jbrock27]

Thank you Len for underscoring my point and for the add'l info.

Sarge, not certain you are addressing me, bc you called me Jeff but I think you are bc of how you used the word "cool":

       -Don't have any passenger cars or service on the layout; too small for them;
       -Happily, don't have any imperfections yet in our trackwork.

I do agree with all who like the sounds of metal wheels on the track

[jbrock27]

Must get me a truck tuner.

Roger T.

Roger, I have the Micro Mark version and I was curious today to compare it to the one Reboxx sells, so I did some snooping online.  One guy on the MRR Forum made the statement the Reboxx one was longer and the Micro Mark version was too short to fit in Accurail and Athearn trucks.  Someone else on the MRH Forum said just the opposite, that the Micro Mark one was longer.    Finally, someone on that Forum measured the 2 and reported the Micro Mark one was longer.

[electrical whiz kid]

You know, Jim;
It works-and if used properly (not like me), it will give great results.  I turned out a "double-ended burnisher" on my trusty Southbend.  This works well, as it fits snugly into both axle sockets. Makes 'em nice and smoooooooooooooth.

Rich C.

PS:  Jim; I was basically talking to Jeff.   No offense, really.