flex track questions

[billgiannelli]

Hello all!
I am thinking of buying flex track. I have 2 questions:
I assume I would need to purchase roadbed for it, correct?
Would I be able to cut the track to a desired length?
thanks
Bill

[jonathan]

BG,

Some thing to consider with flex track:

You can match it to EZ track by using cork roadbed, if you use code 100 fleck track, and you will still have to shim a bit to get it to the right height to match with the EZ track.  Easy to do. I did it a bunch.

You can cut flex track to fit by using a razor saw or cut off wheel on a motor tool.  Again, I have done both. I prefer the razor saw... easier to get a more perpendicular cut.

If you are working around a curve, it is easier to join and solder the flex track, then work around the curve... Makes a smoother transition as you work around the turn.

Save the extra ties you will have to cut off as you lay the track.  The extra ties can be trimmed and laid under the bare spots where you joined track pieces.

I have glued downed the roadbed, and I have tacked down the roadbed with spikes, prior to laying the track.  Both work well.  With the roadbed spiked instead of glued, it's easier to make changes when or if you change your mind about track placement.

Just a few thoughts.

Regards,

Jonathan

[ebtnut]

Jonathon pretty much covered it, but here's a few thoughts:  I prefer the cutoff disk in the Dremel for its speed.  A few swipes with the file will true up the cut end if needed.  Remember that when laying flex around curves, the inside rail will extend a bit further than the outside and will need to be trimmed to join up the previously-laid section.  Here's the process - lay the flex down, trimming a few ties at the end to clear the rail joiner.  Best to begin on a straight section.  Tack the track down with small nails or spikes.  Solder the next length to the first.  When you enter a curve, as noted you'll need to trim back the inside rail a bit to be about even with the outside rail.  Bend the next section of flex to the curve, trim the inside rail, then solder both to the previous section.  Tack down that length and continue around the curve in the same manner.  You'll soon get the hang of it. 

As for roadbed, a lot of folks use cork since it is generally available at most hobby shops.  I prefer a material called Homasote.  It's a type of pressed paper board that can usually be gotten at your big box home store.  But it comes in 4 x 8 sheets and cutting it is a bear.  There is an outfit that sells it pre-cut under the name Homa-bed.  Google it for info. 

[Len]

Personally, I prefer the Xuron track cutter http://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/3/13 for most track cutting jobs. It's easy to get square cuts, and there's less clean up of burrs than using a saw or Dremel.

You can get them from Micro-Mark, Amazon, Walthers, and a number of on-line hobby shops.

Len

[jbrock27]

I have both the Xuron and the Dremel and 2nd the Xuron.  Using the Xuron, you don't have to worry about flying bits from the Dremel which I have had happen to hit me in the eye even when wearing both safety glasses and a pair of prescription glasses.   
The Dremel is good for "cleaning up" any rough edges on the rails that you may have left but it is common for the Xuron to make a nice clean cut on the end of the track you want to "keep", the other end, not so much.  The Xurons are one of the best train tools I have ever purchased.   

[Len]

The Xuron tool gives a flush cut on one side, and pinches the rail like a wire cutter on the opposite side. If you want to use both pieces after cutting with the Xuron, just turn the tool around and clip 1/16" off the pinched rail to square it up.

Len

[jonathan]

Yep. How silly of me. I have one those track cutters too... Been a while since I laid track.😀

Still it's economical with a razor saw... 3 dollar tool.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jbrock27]

Personal preference, I would rather "snip" and be done than have to bring the teeth of a saw back and forth and risk inadvertently bending a rail or breaking a rail free from a tie that I did not want to.  But I am speaking of cutting track that had not yet been locked down with ballast and glue.  I would imagine when using a saw in those situations where the track has been locked down that way, there is less risk of that happening.   I have a saw, but it is still in its packaging.

[electrical whiz kid]

I have an Xuron tool for track cutting, but have gone back to the Dremel "Mototool".  I have two versions-120VAC, and battery powered.  Armed with a resin type cutter, this cut is fast, clean and ready to install.  No worry about tearing rail from plastic tie strip. 
I have also done a lot with Jack Parker's "Central Valley tie system".  My roadbed, as aforementioned, is 1/4" underlay ply. on top of 1" Styrofoam.switch machines mount directly from underneath, wiring is a breeze, and the turnouts I want to be manually operated get hooked to a piano wire run in flex tube out to the layout edge.
All in all, I am pretty happy with this.  To each his own I say.  Whatever way you so desire, good luck, and happy motoring.

Rich C. 

[Jhanecker2]

Happen to have all the above mentioned tools and they do work .  Was informed that the diamond wheel Dremel wheels are superior to the abrasive cut-off wheels in the fact that they don't break and shatter ,   Always wear eye protection  when doing any kind of cutting . John2.

[jbrock27]

Sarge, I don't worry about tearing rail from plastic tie strips using a Dremel either.  It's using a razor saw back and forth over the rails, that I worry a rail may break from a plastic tie.

[electrical whiz kid]

Jim;-
As I stated, my choice of tools for cutting rail is a "Mototool".  the level of-comfort while working with one, especially the batt-powered unit, especially the satisfaction makes it a choice for me.

Rich C.

[jbrock27]

I'm comfortable using my Dremel as well; I just think the Xuron rail cutters do a better job when cutting the track when it is not locked down, making it my choice.  For when the track is socked down and you have to make a cut for a repair, to isolate a section or whatnot, I am with you, the Dremel is the way to go.

[rogertra]

I'm comfortable using my Dremel as well; I just think the Xuron rail cutters do a better job when cutting the track when it is not locked down, making it my choice.  For when the track is socked down and you have to make a cut for a repair, to isolate a section or whatnot, I am with you, the Dremel is the way to go.

I agree.  When laying track, Xuron cutter and when cutting gaps, Dremel.

Cheers

Roger T.