SWITCHES/WIRING

[bevernie]

Okay. How do you wire a switch without causing a short, then, how do you repower the isolated track?
                                                                                      THANX!!
                                                                                        Ernie
                                                                            Hendersonville, NC

[bevernie]

I've searched the INTERNET, and from the diagrams that I've seen, and the writing that I've read, it seems that you simply run some "bus wires" under the track, with "feeder wires" every once in a while, to the track, thereby powering the track. If this is the case, then what is the purpose of the "insulators"? Couldn't you just run the wires without the "insulators"?
                                                                                                THANX!!
                                                                                                  Ernie
                                                                                         Hendersonville, NC

[Jim Banner]

I assume you mean track switches ("turnouts.")  If they are the "all powered" type like Bachmann sells, there is no special wiring required and no insulated rail joiners needed unless you are using dc and want your layout cut up into blocks as a way of running multiple trains.  If your are running just one train or are using DCC to run multiple trains, then no gaps or insulated rail joiners are required with all powered turnouts.

But!! If you are using "route selective" turnouts with all metal frogs, then you must gap or use insulated joiners on the inside rails (the two rails that are next to one another on the diverging tracks.)  The diverging tracks are like the top of the letter "Y" and the inside rails that need the gaps or insulated joiners are the rails that join at the frog.  These gaps/insulated joiners are not needed in all cases, but rather than give a list of exception, let me say that gaping all inside rails at route selective switches will always work.  The pieces of rail that are isolated by these gaps/insulated joiners are simply connected to the appropriate bus wire.

If the above makes no sense at all, it may be because of a misunderstanding of the differences between "rail" and "track."  A rail is a strip of iron or steel on which the wheels of a train can ride.  A track is two or more rails used together to support and guide a train.

[bevernie]

THANK YOU, Jim! (Of 58 viewers, yours was the only reply??)
Yes, I do mean "turnouts", and I'm doing DC. I'd not even thought of multiple trains, until you mentioned it, but I'd really like that. I'm still confused as to how to wire it, though.If I do the multiple trains, that would require separate (power) switches, too, wouldn't it? Perhaps I'd do better to use two seperate tracks?
                                                                                        THANX!!
                                                                                           Ernie
                                                                              Hendersonville, NC

[SteamGene]

Ernie,
There are several books on wiring a layout.  Atlas does one which is quite good to begin with even if it stresses Atlas products.  I'd buy one curl up in a comfortable chair, have something nice to drink along side, and read the thing.  The second time, have a high lighter or ball point to mark important points.
Gene

[Jim Banner]

My advice is that when you reach the point that you want to run multiple trains on the same track, you should think seriously about Digital Command Control (DCC.)  If you want to run only one train at a time, or if you want to run each train on its own, isolated track, then stick to dc.  It all depends on what YOU want to do with your railway.

Getting together with friends and each running our own train on my single track layout is what charges my batteries, and DCC works very well for me.  The next fellow might want a couple of trains running around his den while he works on his computer and wants to keep it simple.  So he sets up a two track main line, each with its own power pack, and let the trains run on their own.  These are only two examples of a wide range of possibilities, but they are probably the two most common ones.   

[bevernie]

The main reason that I asked this question, on this forum, was so that I wouldn't have to buy the book! ???Being financially handicapped makes enjoying even the simplest of life's pleasures strained and stressful!!(My wife thinks the bills have to be paid FIRST!! Can you imagine??)
It looks like, though, I'll have to either buy the book or hope there's one in the local library!!
                                                                                             THANX!!
                                                                                                 Ernie

[SteamGene]

Okay, Ernie, what brand turnout are you using?  As Jim points out, it makes a difference in wiring the turnout.
Gene

[bevernie]

Wes, of OLD FORT TRAIN SHOP, OLD FORT, NC, gave me 3 PECO switches and one ATLAS, then at a train show in WAYNESVILLE, NC, we bought a box ($50) with about 15 ATLAS switches (plus some cars and a couple of engines and a lot of track. It had to be a REAL good deal for my wife to let me spend that much!!) Most of the ATLASES are remote. The PECOES could be, but they don't have the machine.
                                                                                             THANX!!
                                                                                               Ernie

[SteamGene]

One of the benefits of the Atlas switch is that it doesn't need any special wiring.  It routes the power to  both the straight and divering routes  Somebody else will need to help with the Peco,  The Atlas remote switch machines are wired to the AC terminals of your power pack.  What most people do is to use the Atlas switch control and run the wires from the switch machine to the control, hook them up in parallel, and then wire one end of the control panel to the power pack.
If you want to be able to give or take power from a siding you will need the following:
buss wire (larger size - 12-14 gauge)
feeder wire (smaller size -16-18 gauge)
electrical switches to turn power off and on to the sidings.
Run the buss wire around your layout.  I'm assuming it's a loop.  Drop feeder wires where you want to power your track.  If you have a 4x8, I'd recommend one feeder close to your power pack and one feeder opposite it.  Your mainline, unless it's large enough to need blocks, doesn't need power switches.  Your sidings do.  So mount an on-off switch (and Atlas makes these too) where you want to power your siding or yard track.  Run the feeder wire to the switch and then from the switch to the track.  You will need to insulate the siding or yard track from the mainline, normally right at the turnout.  Atlas makes insulated joiners.  Don't install them with your wife or kids around because they WILL make you say words you shouldn't. 
This is fairly simplified and assumes you can access all of your track easily. 
Gene

[bevernie]

One of the benefits of the Atlas switch is that it doesn't need any special wiring.  It routes the power to  both the straight and divering routes  Somebody else will need to help with the Peco,  The Atlas remote switch machines are wired to the AC terminals of your power pack.  What most people do is to use the Atlas switch control and run the wires from the switch machine to the control, hook them up in parallel, and then wire one end of the control panel to the power pack.
If you want to be able to give or take power from a siding you will need the following:
buss wire (larger size - 12-14 gauge)
feeder wire (smaller size -16-18 gauge)
electrical switches to turn power off and on to the sidings.
Run the buss wire around your layout.  I'm assuming it's a loop.  Drop feeder wires where you want to power your track.  If you have a 4x8, I'd recommend one feeder close to your power pack and one feeder opposite it.  Your mainline, unless it's large enough to need blocks, doesn't need power switches.  Your sidings do.  So mount an on-off switch (and Atlas makes these too) where you want to power your siding or yard track.  Run the feeder wire to the switch and then from the switch to the track.  You will need to insulate the siding or yard track from the mainline, normally right at the turnout.  Atlas makes insulated joiners.  Don't install them with your wife or kids around because they WILL make you say words you shouldn't. 
This is fairly simplified and assumes you can access all of your track easily. 
Gene

MANY THANX!!, GENE!!
However, to clarify, are you saying that I don't need to use the insulators with the ATLAS switches, except in the yard, or on a particular track that I don't want to power at a given time?
                                                                             THANX!!
                                                                               Ernie