Bachmann engine "picks' points on one particular EZ-Track turnout

[RCtrax05]

I just bought a new B23/B30-7 engine, and it seems to "pick" the points on one particular turnout... It never does this on any of the other turnouts (all track is Bachmann EZ-Track)... But 9 out of 10 times, it will de-rail on this one turnout...

No other locos have an issue with the turnout (Athearn Blue Box, Atlas yellow box, Atlas Classic/Silver, even other Bachmann engines...)

So.... Ideas?

I have checked track joints, the turnout points feel smoooooth... I'm lost on this one...?

[Joe Satnik]

Check the gauge of your wheels (indirectly) by measuring the wheel back-to-back using a caliper:

According to nmra.org,

http://nmra.org/sites/default/files/standards/sandrp/pdf/S-4.2%202015.01.19.pdf

0.566" to 0.575"

Metric:

14.50mm to 14.73mm

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[rogertra]

Maybe the switch points are not closing correctly as it only happens on one switch.

Make sure the points fit snugly against the stock rails.

If they do not, gently tweak them with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Also gentle file the gauge side of the points to make them a little sharper.

Cheers

Roger T.

[RCtrax05]

First - THANKS for the responses... Let me respond...

I have an NMRA gauge, and checked the engine's wheel spacing - all were within spec...

So - I did a close-up inspection of the switch... Since this section of the layout does not have the EZ Track glued down yet, I was able to temporarily remove the switch and take it to the workbench... Nothing was actually "binding', but the points did not move as freely as I thought they should - this contributed to a less than "clean" closing of the points. I took the time to follow the posted advice and gently tweaked the points to ensure that they could close completely and that any burrs or sharp edges were removed from the tips of the points. At this time I also noticed that the plastic "bar" that connects the points seemed to rub/bind slightly where it moved under the rails, so I lightly "shaved" a tiny bit off the top surface to ensure ease of motion. Then I noticed that the "pin" that sticks up through the plastic roadbed to allow manual movement of the switch points seemed to "hit" the end of the slot in which it moves a bit too soon when the points were moved in one direction - I found some "mold lines", etc. and used an X-acto knife to shave the end of the slot to allow the full range of motion...

I re installed the switch and tested...

The problem seems to be resolved... I will do some more testing, but the engine made several passes over the "fixed" switch with no issues of any kind...

Thanks again for your input...

[Len]

Good troubleshooting.

One thing I've learned is switches can be trouble spots, so I don't fasten them down. Before installing them, I removed the rail joiners on the switch and connecting tracks they attach to. I trim off the first plastic 'spike' on the connecting tracks, so the rail joiners can slide farther on to the rail than normal. Then I replace the joiners with Atlas #170 NS joiners that have been shortened slightly.

When I install everythings, I fasten down the connecting tracks, but not the switch. That way if there's a problem, all I have to do is slide the rail joiners back out of the way and lift the switch out. Just don't get real heavy with shrubbery or ballast around the switch.

Len

[Jerrys HO]

Good troubleshooting.

One thing I've learned is switches can be trouble spots, so I don't fasten them down. Before installing them, I removed the rail joiners on the switch and connecting tracks they attach to. I trim off the first plastic 'spike' on the connecting tracks, so the rail joiners can slide farther on to the rail than normal. Then I replace the joiners with Atlas #170 NS joiners that have been shortened slightly.

When I install everythings, I fasten down the connecting tracks, but not the switch. That way if there's a problem, all I have to do is slide the rail joiners back out of the way and lift the switch out. Just don't get real heavy with shrubbery or ballast around the switch.

Len

AWESOME advice Len, where were you when I was building mine. Doesn't matter I can still do it.

[richardl]

Good troubleshooting.

One thing I've learned is switches can be trouble spots, so I don't fasten them down. Before installing them, I removed the rail joiners on the switch and connecting tracks they attach to. I trim off the first plastic 'spike' on the connecting tracks, so the rail joiners can slide farther on to the rail than normal. Then I replace the joiners with Atlas #170 NS joiners that have been shortened slightly.

When I install everythings, I fasten down the connecting tracks, but not the switch. That way if there's a problem, all I have to do is slide the rail joiners back out of the way and lift the switch out. Just don't get real heavy with shrubbery or ballast around the switch.

Len

AWESOME advice Len, where were you when I was building mine. Doesn't matter I can still do it.

\

Nice reminder. I remember reading about not fastening down switch tracks many years ago in a couple mrr magazines but it slipped my mind over the years. Great advice.
The emphasis was to let the switch "float".

Rich