Upgrading a Bridge.

[jonathan]

OK folks, my scenery juices are flowing after all the posts about bridges.  So I've started a new thread as I begin the process of upgrading a bridge.  This is the one I've made reference to:



It's a Model Power Bridge over EZ track.  Here's the bridge removed--you can see how I cut the bridge deck and rolled it over the EZ track:


Here's the EZ track without the bridge--it still supports trains, so it will hold for now:


Eventually I will cut the EZ track when I'm ready to install the new track and bridge. So...

First, I need to construct the track that will sit on the bridge deck.  I like to set the railroad ties much closer together than model track.  Thus, it will look much closer to some prototypes I have seen.  I use code 100 track on this loop so I can run old equipment--Varney, Rivarossi and the like.  Anyway, here are a few shots of my progress.











As a description, I need mostly straight track, plus a couple inches of 22" radius track to cross the gap over the tracks below.  I take some scrap track and slide off the ties.  Cut all the little plastic tabs that separate the ties.  I slide all the ties together until the gap is a toothpick width.  Then glue the ties in place.  The track pieces are also soldered together, as you can see.  I jam a toothpick in the nail holes that are not needed, glue and trim them.  A little weathering will cover everything up.

I won't be able to construct guard rails until the new track is in place.

That's it for now.  I'm trying to a select a proper wooden truss bridge to install. When I get a good bridge.  I'll update this thread.  Hopefully, this will help some others who are considering some bridge work.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

not to complain but I liked the way it was before the upgrade. not too many wooden truss bridges around, but the steel ones are still a common sight.

[jonathan]

No complaint taken. 

There is a chance that I won't find a suitable bridge.  Then I'll have to put the original bridge back in place.  However, I will have some better looking trackage. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[Jerrys HO]

That first pic made me feel like I was there. Your pieces are museum quality. Love to just browse through your library of pics.

[Len]

For future reference, Shinohara makes Cd100 flex track with much closer tie spacing than most other brands. Item 669-115 at Walthers.
Not quite as nice as the Cd83 Walthers/Shinohara bridge track, but better than most standard flex for bridges.

If you removed the deck plate, and installed cross girders and framing using basswood or styrene, that MP bridge would look really good.

Len

[jonathan]

Thanks, guys, for the praise and advice.

Here's an update.  I've test-fitted the track to make sure everything runs smoothly.  First, I trimmed back the EZ track--actually more like hacked at it:


Then adjusted some railroad ties and tried to make a fairly smooth transition:






Next will be the guardrails.

It's funny how I lay track the opposite of the prototype. First, the track, then the bridge, finally install the abutments and scenery bits.  

Regards,

Jonathan

[Len]

Looking good.

Len

[electrical whiz kid]

Jonathan;
You are probably aware of this, but Campbell used to catalogue a curved trestle.  Now, I don't know if they still do, but is worth a look-see, as it is a "craftsman"-type structure.  If you have no luck, there is always evil-bay.  Just as a passing comment; the comment "caveat emptor" should be the phrase.......
Rich
SGT C.

[Len]

If Campbell doesn't, these guys http://www.blackbearcc.com/BBCC_Home.html have kits and jigs for building about any kind of trestle you can think up.

Len

[jonathan]

Indeed, I have been checking out some of the Campbell bridges.  I like the complexity of the structures... eye candy as the train passes over. 

My mouth also waters for the look of the brass bridges out there. I agree with jward's assessment of the metal bridge, as it would fit in nicely with my scheme.  They are way too pricey, however. And the plastic offerings aren't turning me on, so far. 

My first preference would be a stone bridge, but none offer a gap wide enough to allow a double track to fit in them.  I have some rather tight tolerances in this area.

If money and space were no issue, I would have found a way to install one of the B&O viaducts in my layout.  They are big and beautiful and uber expensive.  So, back to reality... Thanks Len and Rich.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jonathan]

Just a quick update:

I don't have a bridge, yet.  I have put in some guardrails and a bit of weathering.  I am waiting to solder the two ends of the bridge track, in case it's necessary to remove the track to install the bridge.

Here are a few pix.  Hard to tell there is EZ track on either side. 

Regards,

Jonathan

[ebtnut]

Jonathon:  Given any thought to using an O scale double track tunnel portal for your desired stone bridge?  I believe there are a couple of options out there.

[jonathan]

That's a good idea.  Thanks ebt!

Regards,

Jonathan

[jward]

you could also cast one in place using an old mailing tube for the arch. I have a friend who does that with plaster, and hand carves the stones.

[jonathan]

I picked up a used bridge for not many bucks.  So, if I don't like it, I won't feel guilty about replacing it.  Had to shorten the bridge about 1.5" and repair many loose joints, but I think this may work:







Along with joint repair, I also added these wire rods.  I've seen these in models and prototype photos.  I imagine they are for added strength:


Presently I am using some 600 grit sandpaper and going over the whole model.  This will remove the excess glue and lighten-up/weather the model a bit.

Don't know if you can see the difference in these two photos.  Prior to sanding:


After sanding:


The sanding will take a long time I fear.  Then a quick shot of dullcote to seal it and we're ready to install.  

I'm debating about weathering with grays and browns.  That might detract from the woodiness.  

Regards,

Jonathan