wheels and truck

[Jerrys HO]

Wow did not realize I had to get a college degree in grammar to post on this board, guess I will have to post somewhere else.......NOT.

I do agree with the front trucks being able to swing more freely than the rear for tracking and stability. It's like your  automobile, the front wheels turn the direction you want to go and the rear wheels follow. Try making a 1:1 auto with the rear wheels free and see where you wind up, ask Sid he should know.

Ruf, I can say this if you absorb half the knowledge I have from this board you will have one of the best running layouts around. And I Ain't Foolin' ya. Leave out the grammar class and we are good.

[jward]

All right then there now.  That clears that up once and for all.  Thanks.  So I take it that the car should roll forward in a certain direction.  I would guess that the b end should trail.  Is that right?  Is that the way it is with Real Trains?  Break wheel on the trailing end?  No brakes on the front (a) truck?  That would make sense.  When I drove the big truck, my trailer breaks were way more effective than my tractor breaks.  When I didn't have a trailer, it was hard to stop.

freight cars are bi directional. it really doesn't matter which end leads or trails. both trucks have working brakes on the real ones. remember, the current standard is a gross weight of 144 tons per car. you need all the braking power you can get when trains routinely run 10000-15000 tons. the a and b end designations are used by railroaders to identify parts and defects on the car. example, defect card for bent stirrups on the left side a end of car. or...replace air hose on b end of car.

we as modellers can readily adapt those terms for our own use.

[rogertra]

...it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise.   

Cheers

Roger T.

I don't disagree.  But I think having a concept and a halfway decent command of the English language goes a much longer way, especially when seeking advice.

Guilty as charged your honour. 

I should have known better.  Rats!

Cheers

Roger T.

[electrical whiz kid]

Roger;
A lot of resin type kits do Not come pre-drilled.  This is what  ideal with.  I have no problems.  I just do what I have to do.
SGT C.

[rogertra]

Roger;
A lot of resin type kits do Not come pre-drilled.  This is what  ideal with.  I have no problems.  I just do what I have to do.
SGT C.

Thanks for the update. 

Cheers

Roger T.

[jbrock27]

...I still find with those that a screw just screwed into the original hole works well without the need to tap the hole first.  As I mentioned, it's just plastic so I see no need to tap a thread.

Cheers

Roger T.

Agree.  Not sure why anyone would bother to tap for a thread where there had already been a screw.

[jbrock27]

Wow did not realize I had to get a college degree in grammar to post on this board...

I think that ship has sailed for you Bubba.

I do agree with the front trucks being able to swing more freely than the rear for tracking and stability. 

...and speaking of boats, I think you missed this one-it does not matter which truck does which.

[jbrock27]

Guilty as charged your honour.  

I should have known better.  Rats!

Cheers

Roger T.

It's ok Roger, don't beat yourself up over it

Sarge, I don't need your plastic wheels, but I would be glad to take your 2 cents

And what?  No points for mea culpa?

[jbrock27]

Len, after re-reading your post, I now understand you.  I always found it more difficult to drill a hole through the weight while it is attached to the car and have found it easier to remove the weight (after marking it through the underside where I want the holes) and drilling through it.  I have never found the adhesive the original manufactures used, to make it that difficult to remove the weight.