wheels and truck

[jward]

the proper terminology would be a end and b end. the b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.

the method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side. the 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.

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The proper terminology would be a end and b end.  The b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.

The method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that it can pivot but not rock.  The truck on the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.  The 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.

All right then there now.  That clears that up once and for all.  Thanks.  So I take it that the car should roll forward in a certain direction.  I would guess that the b end should trail.  Is that right?  Is that the way it is with Real Trains?  Break wheel on the trailing end?  No brakes on the front (a) truck?  That would make sense.  When I drove the big truck, my trailer breaks were way more effective than my tractor breaks.  When I didn't have a trailer, it was hard to stop.

[rogertra]

the proper terminology would be a end and b end. the b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.

the method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side. the 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.

I did use 'A' and "B" end in my post on how to tighten screws.  "B" end tight enough to pivot not rock, "A" end loose enough to rock.

However, I should have explained the "B" end is the brake wheel end.  Sometimes I forget not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology.

Cheers

Roger T.

[jbrock27]

LOL !!  What difference does it make, which truck it is that is the looser of the two?

My apologies to you Ruf for my description not being clear enough for you to understand I was describing the process of how to tighten the screw for each of the two trucks.  Mea culpa.

[jbrock27]

the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.

Never would have thought to describe it like that ...

...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right.  The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.

Comical

[jbrock27]

not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology

Personally, I don't view this as being essential to successfully running and enjoying model trains.

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I hope I'm not belaboring the subject, but I'm aiming for a Thorough Understanding.  So, it seems that it doesn't matter which truck wobbles, or what direction the car is rolling.  Is that right?  Also, what is the benefit of the 3 point suspension, as opposed to having both trucks not wobble?  Or both trucks wobbling?  Seems like wobbling would be a Bad Thing, even for one truck.  I've had some cars literally topple off the track because of their wobbling.  (I'll have to admit to also having them improperly weighted, making them top heavy.)  (Made me laugh when it happened.)

[rogertra]

the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.

Never would have thought to describe it like that ...

...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right.  The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.

Comical

jward's explanation is perfectly logical and correct, nothing humorous in it at all.  

Cheers

Roger T.  

[rogertra]

I hope I'm not belaboring the subject, but I'm aiming for a Thorough Understanding.  So, it seems that it doesn't matter which truck wobbles, or what direction the car is rolling.  Is that right?  Also, what is the benefit of the 3 point suspension, as opposed to having both trucks not wobble?  Or both trucks wobbling?  Seems like wobbling would be a Bad Thing, even for one truck.  I've had some cars literally topple off the track because of their wobbling.  (I'll have to admit to also having them improperly weighted, making them top heavy.)  (Made me laugh when it happened.)

(1) Yes, you are correct when you say it doesn't matter what truck is 'tight' and which truck wobbles.  But it makes sense to standardise on one end as it's easier to trouble shoot if there's a problem with the car tracking correctly.

(2) Doesn't matter which direction the car is moving.  Besides, freight cars move in both directions. 

(3) The 'Three Point Suspension' helps your freight cars track better and not wobble along the track.

(4) Your cars falling from the track because they are wobbling is because both trucks were too loose.  Make one not wobble and one allowed to wobble will correct this tracking problem.  See note (3) above.

(5) When you weight your cars, ensure the weight is as low as possible, like glued to the car's floor.  For open cars, where the weight is visible, glue something like lead shot up inside the centre sill, which is usually open.

Cheers

Roger T.

[rogertra]

not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology

Personally, I don't view this as being essential to successfully running and enjoying model trains.

No but it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise.   

Cheers

Roger T.

[jbrock27]

the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.

Never would have thought to describe it like that ...

...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right.  The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.

Comical

jward's explanation is perfectly logical and correct, nothing humorous in it at all.  

Cheers

Roger T.  

Your'e right.  There is nothing humorous about it at all...

[jbrock27]

The 'Three Point Suspension' helps your freight cars track better and not wobble along the track.
Cheers

Roger T.

Never would have thought to point this out either ...

...set the trucks using the "3 point method" which keeps it rolling on the tracks better.

[jbrock27]

...it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise.   

Cheers

Roger T.

I don't disagree.  But I think having a concept and a halfway decent command of the English language goes a much longer way, especially when seeking advice.

[electrical whiz kid]

All I was doing was tossing in my two cents-oh, and Jim; that ISN'T where I was taking that...  By the way, might I congratulate you for pronouncing "rigmarole" correctly.
For my money, I have a drill press-not just hanging around-It gets used quite a bit.  I do not, by the way, go out and by second-hand crap.  I may come off as quite a snob, but I do not do blue-box type kits.  No challenge.  The kits I have-ALL of them-can be considered high-end type kits. 
Roger, not all trucks mount out that way.  I want the bolster screw to be as straight and plumb as I can get it-and using a drill-press is one way to do it.
Closing, whichever way you do it, it is your money.   This HAS to grab you by the fanny in order for it to be rewarding; and a lot of frustration isn't any way for it to go. I have said it before; whichever way you choose to enjoy this hobby, to me, is your business.
SGT C. 

[rogertra]

 
Roger, not all trucks mount out that way.  I want the bolster screw to be as straight and plumb as I can get it-and using a drill-press is one way to do it.
SGT C. 

Yes, you are correct some trucks, usually the cheaper models, do not have the centre boss.  Those are the ones that use the plastic push pin.  However, I still find with those that a screw just screwed into the original hole works well without the need to tap the hole first.  As I mentioned, it's just plastic so I see no need to tap a thread.

As the screw is never tight anyway, the bolster is free to level itself though every attempt should be made to drive the screw in vertically and, as I use the original hole, that's usually not a problem.  But, as usual, YMMV. 

Cheers

Roger T.