Bachmann Spectrum Model # 81705

[Wincoll]

Hi Joe:

Thanks for this further update. I really appreciate your persistence in helping me identify the problem with this loco. At this point I think I'm going to ship it back to Bachmann for warranty repair.

Thank you again, and happy railroading!

Will (Wincoll)

[Joe Satnik]

Hi, Will.

Just know that if they choose to replace it instead of repair it,

you may not get a DCC-ready Decapod back, as they are not currently being produced.

What track voltage does it take to get it moving?

What track voltage does it take to keep it moving? (Before it blows the breaker.)

Is the dummy plug in its proper location/orientation?

Thanks.

Joe Satnik

[rogertra]

While I am a great fan of Bachmann Spectrum engines, I own 30 or so of them, the worst has been the 2-10-0.

My two older ones are currently out of service due to pulled wires from the plugs and circuit boards and the newest one, purchased in January of this year has had numerous 'issues', mainly with wires becoming detached from the circuit board when the tender body shell was being removed for kitbashing and adding weight.  On the latest model, the tender drawbar is longer than the older models which results in the fall plate between engine and tender dropping down between the tender even when close coupled.  All my engine tenders are close coupled.   On this engine, the wiring harness is way too long, longer than the usually overly long wiring harness.  It's so long it drags along the ties.  Yes, that can be fixed by stuffing the wires back into the tender but that also has resulted in detached wires from the circuit board and, of course, all that wire stuffed into the tender just exacerbates the constant issue with the Bachmann wiring harnesses lifting the front of the tender.

My loco also suffered from the 'sitting on the tracks, making all the noises, bell, whistle, hiss, chuff etc.,' while not actually moving syndrome.  It also has really poor electrical pick up for a ten coupled steam loco.  However, keep at it.  The drawbar can be replaced with a home made one, a friend soldered the wires on the tender back for me, thanks Sid, and now the loco is running, albeit with poor pick up, which is the next issue to work on.

Cheers

Roger T.

[Wincoll]

Hi Joe and Roger:

Again, many thanks for your ongoing feedback and recommendations. Your info, Roger, is not very encouraging! - but I guess I shouldn't make impulse purchases while on vacation! I think I will proceed with sending the loco back to Bachmann for repair.

To answer Joe's question about track voltage etc., I don't know as I only ever got the loco moving once, and on each subsequent occasion the power supply circuit breaker trips as soon as I engage the throttle.

Thanks again, and happy railroading to all!

Will (Wincoll)

[electrical whiz kid]

Visually check the tender trucks.  Look at the wheels.  If it worked on the test track at the hobby shop, then it should work on yours.  Drivers don't magically go out of phase with each other; the trucks on the tender (I OWN TWO) can swing on one another, and if you don't check that, everything will appear to go haywire.
SGTC. 

[Wincoll]

Hi SGTC:

Thanks for the suggestion; but the trucks on this tender cannot physically swing. Also, the insulated wheel hubs on each tender truck are on opposite sides from the front truck to the back truck. I believe this is the correct configuration.

Thanks again,

Will (Wincoll)

[rogertra]

Hi SGTC:

Thanks for the suggestion; but the trucks on this tender cannot physically swing. Also, the insulated wheel hubs on each tender truck are on opposite sides from the front truck to the back truck. I believe this is the correct configuration.

Thanks again,

Will (Wincoll)

The front truck should have the insulated wheels on the Right/Engineer's side and the rear truck should have the insulated wheels on the Left/Fireman's side.

Cheers

Roger T.

[Wincoll]

Dear Friends:

Thank you; I checked the tender truck alignment. It is as it should be, per Roger. So I finally got this puzzle solved and the loco running. Removed the bottom drive wheel retaining plate from the loco and found that one of the copper wipers which is part of the copper bus on the inside of the bottom plate, and which contacts the drive wheels, was not quite aligned correctly and was shorting to ground. Tweaked the copper wiper very carefully - boy these are delicately made - reinstalled and guess what? No more problems and the loco runs great! still a mystery though as to why the loco ran in the hobby store and not when I got home - was very careful in handling at all times!

Thanks again to all!

Will (Wincoll)

[Bill Baker]

Ahhh, Life is good!!!!