Parking

[Jerrys HO]

guslcp commetns:

You don't say what your "other power source" is.  There is a cardinal rule in DCC which states that there can only be one command station controlling a layout, whether it be  a small shelf layout or a large club layout.  Multiple command stations will soon lead to disaster...

I use only a Bachmann EZ Controller.

kd, the rule still applies. No two DCC command stations should be hooked to the same layout.

[kdgrant6]

That's what I meant: I use one controller.

[jward]

with regards to the toy train wiring book, referred to earlier.

o guage toy trains (tinplate) like lionel and Williams run off ac rather than the forms of dc which control most HO  trains. they have a third rail for electrical pickup, and because of this wiring for toy trains is much simpler than for HO. for example, since two outer two rails on 3 rail track are electrically connected, there is no need to gap the rails on a reversing loop. thus, any book on wiring toy train or 3 rail layouts will be irrelevant to what you are trying to do.

I am going to use an analogy of house wiring to explain the wiring of sidings for parking trains.your dcc command station is like the transformer on the pole outside your house. it powers all trackage. the toggle switches are like light switches. the source of the power remains the same, but by flipping the light switch you can control which lights get power. the tracks are wired through toggle switches in a similar way. flipping the toggles allows you to determine which tracks get power. in both cases this also allows you to reduce power consumption. in the case of your ez command, you only have about 1 amp of power available to begin with, and it is very easy to exceed this if you have several locomotives sitting around drawing current from the rails. remember, dcc locomotives draw current whether they are running or sitting still.

[kdgrant6]

Good analogy.  Thanks, Jeffery.

[Desertdweller]

I run a DC-only railroad, but were I to build a DCC railroad (or convert my DC to DCC) I would still want to be able to isolate tracks that I may use to store engines.  I don't like the idea of power going to sitting locomotives.
Many years ago, operating on a DC club layout in HO with automatic train advancing in hidden staging tracks, the system malfunctioned and melted the drivers on my 2-8-8-2.  An expensive and discouraging development!

My current system uses two turntables.  One is fed by only one track and is just used to turn equipment.  The other has nine storage tracks and an approach track.  The approach track and bridge track are one block that is isolated and can be run from one of two throttles.  The other nine engine parking tracks are all individual blocks, isolated and powered from one of two throttles.

If a power selector switch is left in a position other than centered ("off") an engine may creep out of the roundhouse unexpectedly!  This is rather surprising when you are concentrating on the train you are running.  I don't get upset when this happens, because this sometimes happened on the actual railroads, too.  The result is an engine in the turntable pit, tying up all the other engines in the roundhouse until the mess is cleaned up.  This was especially a problem with steam locomotives, that would slowly build up enough steam pressure in the cylinders to take off by themselves.  Engines that did this were called "night creepers".

Les

[kdgrant6]

What good information!  Even more reasons to isolate.

"Night Creeper" would be a good name for a locomotive kept in a switcher house, isolated, and let out only on schedule--except times he comes out unexpectedly when small grandkids are watching the running of the trains. 

[kdgrant6]

Question:

Do both rail joiners have to be connected in order to have the necessary current for DCC power to work?

[jward]

you only need to gap one rail for this to work. dc or dcc the wiring is the same. the on-off switch is wired around the gap, one side to the isolated rail on the siding, the other connects to the same rail anywhere on the other side of the gap. as a matter of fact, it can be connected directly to the dcc command station as long as you have the polarity correct. it can also be connected to any bus wire you may have. as long as the polarity is correct it doesn't matter. and if the polarity isn't correct you will know in a hurry as you'll have a dead short when you turn the toggle on.

[jbrock27]

Here's the added deal to this endeavor Ken: unless you buy rail joiners that have presoldered wires to them or have a terminal track for each section desired to be isolated, both of which are costly by comparison, and purchase switches that will accept spade style connectors that can be crimped, soldering is an essential skill to have if you wish to isolate a lot of sections of track.

[Len]

Soldering is a skill that will come in handy for many aspects of model railroading, and it's not that hard to learn. Just practice away from the layout for a while first. You might even check to see if any of your local Community Colleges offer an evening course on soldering.

While it may sound counter intuitive, just remember to use a reasonably large (35 - 45 watts) iron when solding directly to rail. You want to be able to get on and get off as quickly as possible to avoid melting plastic ties. Save the 20 -25 watt iron for printed circuit boards and small wires.

My personal preference for track work is the 45W Weller 1140A 'Stained Glass Soldering Iron'. It was originally made by Unger, which was taken over by Weller. It has replacable heating cartridges that can be swapped out for higher or lower wattages. The cartridge has enough mass to hold heat when applied to the track. And the chisel tip fits nicely against the side of the rail, for attaching wires or soldering rail joiners.

Len

[jbrock27]

I love my Weller WLC100.  One of the best model train (and for other things) purchases made.  Makes me say 'why did I not get one earlier?' and 'why did I waste my time with Radio Shack 30-40W irons previously?'

[Desertdweller]

The way this thread is going has got me thinking of another thread that may be helpful.  How about a thread dedicated to suggesting some basic tools that a new model railroader wishing to move beyond the "plug and play" phase of model railroad construction?

Basic soldering equipment and supplies; basic power tools for building framework and working on/modifying models; basic measuring devices, etc.  I think this would be useful for beginners wanting to take their hobby to the next level.

Les

[jbrock27]

Is this why you suggested that, Les, you sly devil...

http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18705.0.html

[Desertdweller]

jbrock,

You are giving me too much credit.  I had forgotten about that 2011 post.

I'm glad you remembered it, though, as it still applies.

Les

[jbrock27]

It certainly does Les.  I found it very comprehensive then as now.  Thanks for the list