strange wiring question

[doug1976]

I have been wiring my new layout using 14 awg red and black wires, and 20 awg feeders, black and red, and connecting them with posi-locks.  I have the majority of the layout wired.  I have two main lines, each connected to its own box.  I run DC.  Each run from the box is about 45 to 50 feet, and I did not connect the bus lines together, it just ends at about 50 feet and left loose at this point.

Today when wiring a few feeders near the end of the bus line I had the trains not run at all.  First thought was I shorted it somehow, but this is impossible because my red is wired to red, and black to black.  I double checked that I had placed the track in the right orientation (but this shouldnt matter if I match colors I believe).  I had wired 3 areas, one mid point and the two towards the end, and disconnected them all, then added one back at a time . The mid point one did not stall the train, so it is ok.  Either of the two end ones cause the train to stop.  I can have the reds connected on both with no ill effects, but if I attempt to connect either black, it shuts down the train.  I did notice on each I would get a spark, but this could happen with all of them if I tried connecting while on.  I normally do not do this since I have seen no issues.

These two are on either side of a turnout, one of those Kato powered guys.  I dont think this is an issue either since the same thing occurs about 5 feet further down where I wired on both sides, and no issues there.

I am at a loss, any ideas?

[Joe Satnik]

Hi, Doug.

Please let us know what your scale is, and if possible, the part number of your turnout.

Do you mean power-routing, non-power routing (all routes always connected with each other) or powered metal frog?

Is this turnout part of a turn-around (reversing) loop?

Is there any way you can post a picture or drawing of your track configuration/layout?

Thanks.

Joe Satnik

[doug1976]

Here is the offending section, the red lines are the red wire, the black are the black.  The turnouts are Kato Unitrack part 20-202.  I suspect now looking at some more sites that despite my not having a reverse section, because the turnouts face each other I might need to insulate the mainline and siding sections in the middle, and provide power separately.  Is this the case?  If so, can I simply add insulated unijoiners and then wire as I have been doing?

[doug1976]

Ok so you are not going to believe this, but I figured out why this happened, and it is really stupid.  I was messing around with one of the sections and I flipped it around then connected it back up, suddenly the train on the other line started up.  What I had done was accidentally wire those two sections to the wrong bus wires!  Anyway, it is all up and running just fine now, and I feel rather stupid with such a simple issue. 

[doug1976]

Did more research and due to the nature of Kato turnouts, insulating them is not necessary.  Guess my ordeal was going from a 50ft line to 100 and the massive drop in voltage to the loco. 

Moral of the day, dont wire a layout when you are tired!

[Joe Satnik]

Hi, Doug.

Had to run just as you replied with your track diagram, and just now returned. 

I'm glad you found the problem on your own.

Good troubleshooting.

Sincerely,

Joe Satnik

[jbrock27]

Speaking of wiring and KATO turnouts, here is an alternate way to wire up the turnouts switch motors:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wR-Y9eaIe3c

[jward]

best wiring advice I ever got was to have fun running trains while wiring. connect one set of wires at a time, run the trains in that section, then move on to the next one. if your train stops working, the last set of wires you added are where the problem is. I have seen people wire an entire layout without doing this, only to find they have a massive short when they power it up. and then they spend hours or days unwiring the layout trying to find the problem. btw, this principle of checque things out as you go, works well for wiring decoders into locomotives as well.

[Joe Satnik]

jward,

That's the fun way to do it.

You could also check for shorts across the rails (power pack disconnected)

with an Ohm-meter or continuity checker (beeper) after every wire pair attachment.

I suppose you could just leave the beeper attached to the rails while you work. 

Joe