Switches for Rail yard

[HODenew]

I am trying to design/layout a rail yard. So far I have used #6 right and left crossovers off a mainline for an arrival/departure line. I then used left (44461) and right (44462) switches to create a thru yard, but the distance between the tracks is too great.

I tried using #6 switches and using 1/3 and 1/2 of an 18" radius curve, but the tracks are not straight in the yard.

What switch is best to use so the yard is closer together and do I need to use a different radius curve or cut track to make it fit?

HODenew

[rogertra]

I am trying to design/layout a rail yard. So far I have used #6 right and left crossovers off a mainline for an arrival/departure line. I then used left (44461) and right (44462) switches to create a thru yard, but the distance between the tracks is too great.

I tried using #6 switches and using 1/3 and 1/2 of an 18" radius curve, but the tracks are not straight in the yard.

What switch is best to use so the yard is closer together and do I need to use a different radius curve or cut track to make it fit?

HODenew

Because you are using set track with its fixed geometry.  I suggest you buy a book or two on set track layouts.  That's the best I can help you with as I don't use set track.

Cheers

Roger T.

[electrical whiz kid]

Roger T. and HO DeNew;
Central Valley offers what I believe is a pretty good solution in that it allows one a little more latitude when planning turnouts and switching in what will probably be a fairly congested setting.  One thing I consider foremost is to sit down and LOGICALLY plan out the yard trackage as if you were in the engineering department of a railroad company.  This sort of insight and approach will in my opinion, pay big dividends in the long run. 
As I mentioned, CV has a line of tie and turnout assemblages upon which one might plan his/her systems.  Go on line and check them out.  Five or ten minutes would be a good investment, no matter how you look at it.   Also, they now have this great bridge available, as well as some pretty good structural components.  My apologies to Bachmann for touting what might be considered to be one of your competitors; but this information is well worthwhile for all concerned to know.
SGT C. 

[trainmainbrian]

Have you thought about using FLEX TRACK in your layout plans.... FLEX Track might help you with your issues

[electrical whiz kid]

Brian;
Given the already shrunken dimensions of the average model railroad, I would still use CVs tie system, as it will eliminate a lot of work, guess work, and frustration.  If you can read instructions, you will be home free.
SGT C.

[rogertra]

The OP has already stated he/she is using Bachmann set track which is why I didn't suggest using flex or hand laid track.

Cheers

Roger T.

[Joe Satnik]

Download and learn how to use Anyrail.com, a easy to learn layout CAD program.  

It's free for the first 50 track pieces.  

I'm surprised that the 10 degree 18" radius curve didn't straighten out your #6 turnout.  

That's as close as you're going to get with the HO E-Z Track that is currently available.

Joe

Edit: grammar

[jward]

if you want to stay with ez track, using the number 5 switches, along with the 12 degree curves of 33.25" radius will work a lot better for you. not only will your track spacing be closer, you will also avoid the 18r reverse curve that results from using the standard switches. those 18r reverse curves are probably the biggest mistakes I see from beginners planning their layouts. cars with body mounted couplers do not like them, and trying to back trains of talgo coupler cars is just as bad. there is nothing more frustrating than derailments due to poorly designed trackwork or equipment.

[Len]

He's using the 44461/44462 standard 18" radius turnouts with the #6 crossovers to create a yard. It would take a full 30deg 18R to bring the tracks back parallel, if that's what he wants. But like he found doing that, or combining the switches to make a ladder track, results in a center-to-center track spacing between 4.75" and 5".

The only way I've found to do a yard with closely spaced tracks (2" - 2.5" center-to-center) is to build it on a piece of plywood using conventional track and switches, then shim it to line up with the EZ-Track mainline.

Len

[electrical whiz kid]

To all modellers,
THIS is why a lot of guys aspire to crafting turnouts like that.  It gives them the flexibility to do what they want without the inherent restrictions ready-made equip, no matter how well-made-contain.  My advice to all new modellers is to use what ever will be to your comfort level for now; but also, tack "getting to better" conspicuously to the back of your mind. 
In my case, I have always desired flexibility, which is why I go the route I do; specifically, ready-made tie systems and hand made track.
...Oh, and Roger; you never answered my question...

SGT. C 

[rogertra]

...Oh, and Roger; you never answered my question...

SGT. C 

I thought I did, see my post of  February 05, 2015, 01:43:42 PM. 

Cheers

Roger T.

[HODenew]

These are all great ideas. Thank you all.

I have Anyrail and have tried other track systems with Anyrail and they work better for a close yard.

I read more on yard planning as suggested. More to come.

A friend gave me some old Atlas code 100 Snap Track and switches. They work great and result in a better yard.

Anyrail shows this too.

HODenew

[electrical whiz kid]

THis will become part of your road to experience.  Good luck to you.
SGT. C

[MrMoose]

I have used a few slightly
curve track to put the spurs closer together.

[jbrock27]

Be careful not to create any "kinks" putting track together beyond the natural way the joiners are meant to fit together.