Track Pins

[Fxguy1]

Grrr....    lol. I got the Masonite because it's light and I could fit 2 x 4 sheets in my tiny Cavalier. It was also cheaper for that than plywood in same size sheets. Oh well, guess I'll have to get the plywood before I proceed any further. At least all I've done was attach the cork track bed which won't be too hard to rip up and redo.

I had another question but it escapes me at the moment.

[jward]

if you've already laid out the roadbed on the Masonite why not laminate it to the plywood?

btw, Masonite does work well for control panels and fascia around the layout edges.

[jbrock27]

I have seen masonite used for facia; even soaked in water first to be able to shape to any curvey contour the benchwork has.  I have only ever seen it at a mninum of 1/4" though thick like what FX has.  They make it thinner than that, to be able to be used as a control panel?

[mabloodhound]

You could also laminate your hardboard to 2" foam base (either the blue or pink stuff).  This will give it the support it needs and keep it light weight.
And using an adhesive caulk to attach your track is the best method and easily comes up if you make changes.  Caulk also works best for gluing down the cork.

[JerryB]

No matter what the substrate, I would definitely NOT nail the track down.

Model RRs are subject to maintenance (example: changing a defective turnout), changes (example: adding a siding) and expansion. Having nails holding the track usually means that the ties will be damaged either during installation (nails driven too far and either breaking the tie or changing the gauge) or be destroyed when it is time to make a change or addition.

As suggested above, put the track down with an adhesive that can be removed later. You do not need much adhesive to hold the track in place, as the forces are very low.

You can use the 'pins' (not nails) to hold the track in place while the adhesive dries, but even this is not necessary if you use a contact adhesive.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

[Fxguy1]

So using a caulk adhesive to glue it to the cork road bed is better? I was afraid of doing that because I didn't want to permanently attach it. I'm starting out with building the Cripple Creek Layout from HO Start to Finish but figured eventually I will want to rearrange things or do something else entirely.

The biggest frustration at this point is trying to find the time to go and get the plywood. Anything bigger than a 2' X 4' piece and I have to use my wife's car which means its no longer a stop at the hardware store on the way home from work deal anymore.

I do remember my question from earlier though! If I completely redo the cork bed, are there any tips or tricks to penciling in the layout for the center of the track?

[jward]

did you know you can get many diy stores like lowes to cut the plywood for you at a modest cost? you could buy the full sheet and have them cut it into 2x4 panels that would fit in your vehicle.

jb, I use 1/8" Masonite for control panels. it also makes a good backdrop with its smooth side out.

[jbrock27]

Thank you Jeff, 1/8" would work.  I will have to check HD for it again; I am pretty sure the last time I was in there the only 1/8" stuff they had (at least that I saw) was Luan.

FX, nails vs adhesives is one of long standing debates.  You can find places like the NMRA site that suggests using nails or rail spikes to secure track and other sources that talk about using adhesives.  I have been told white glue will work to hold down cork to wood and to remove, it just needs to be whetted.  I know some like to mark the outside of the tracks to set the lines for the cork, but I have been told the best way is to take a Sharpie (or other marker) and make a dot in between the ties in the center of the track to mark you center.  Rather tedious, but I am told it works.

[Len]

The dots along the center line work best. You only need a couple for straight areas, then use a straight edge to connect them. When you lay the cork, it's easier to keep the vertical edge of the first half strip aligned with the center line as it's put down. Once it's in place, just butt the second strip against it, no hunting for the outside line needed.

When you lay the second strip, offset the end a couple of inches from the first strip, so there's no joint completely across the cork. Having a track joint directly above a cork joint that goes completely across can become a trouble spot. Wrap some sandpaper around a block of wood, and sand the top of the cork smooth after it's all down to get rid of uneven spots. Vacumn the dust up, and you're ready to lay track.

Personally, I use a dab of Aleen's Tacky Glue, available at most craft and fabric stores, on the cork every so often to hold the track until it's ballasted. Map pins between the ties keep the track from moving until it dries. Once dry, remove the pins and the ballast is set in place with diluted glue, the tracks not going anywhere.

Len
 

[Fxguy1]

All great suggestions! Thank you all! What about marking the centerline of curves ?

[Len]

More dots and connect freehand. Or take an old yardstick and drill small holes for a pivot point and pencil to make a trammel beam to draw curves with.

Len

[Fxguy1]

Ok, so I got 2 - 4'x4' pieces of 1/2" ABX Plywood for the track subsurface. Replace half of it tonight and have the other half ready to go. So I know Len mentioned not having a track joint and cork joint directly above each other, but I want the layout to be able breakdown into two sections for storage.

So how do I do the joints in the track and cork to be able to come apart? I know with the layout already that the existing joint does not fall directly above the joint in the bench.

[Len]

Ah! From the earlier posts I thought this was just a regular 4x8, even if the plywood came home in pieces.

With a layout designed to break down, about the only way to avoid the track joint over cork joint problem is to use a removable "fitter" piece across the section joint. Something along the lines of, ==][== , where a piece of sectional track is added across the joint as the sections are put together, and removed when they are seperated. If you search for HO layout module building techniques, you'll find various ideas for using alignment pins on the ends that join together, and hinges with removable pins, to keep the sections lined up and locked together.

Also, don't forget to make provisions for seperating the wiring between sections if it's designed to break down. This can be as simple as jumpers between terminal blocks on each section, or more complex involving using various types of connectors.

Len

[jward]

http://ntrak.org/man2pg.pdf

the link shows the way ntrak does things. they are an n scale modular club, but their ideas apply equally well to HO.

what they do is to run the roadbed right up to the ends of the layout, and the track to 1/2 section of the end. a full section of track bridges the tables, half on each side of the gap. this section should have the ties trimmed back on one end so that a rail joiner can slide completely onto the rails. once the track is in place the joiners are slid back onto the adjacent track section to make the connection. they also use electrical connectors to jumper between tables, not relying on the rail joiners to conduct across the gap.

over the years their system has proven itself to be reliable and simple, and has been used by ntrak chapters all across the country.

[Fxguy1]

Len thanks for the idea. Never thought to split the difference since I'm going to have to cut track anyway to fit the joint. I've already used the hinges on each side to lock the modules together but there is still quite a bit of "flex" over the joint. I'll try and snap some pics tonight if I get a chance. It seems each end of the table in the 8 ft direction can flex upward about a 1/4". I haven't actually drilled through the two pieces of wood yet to lock them together, just the hinges on each side.