New HO 4-4-0 train set won't go

[musket]

I just got my first train set in many years, so I wanted to test it out.  It's been a while, but it's not my first rodeo.  Saying that, I know the importance of proper track assembly.

So, everything is plugged up ready to go, and nothing. No light, no movement.  The first thing I noticed is that the engine's drive wheels won't move with my thumb.  Are they supposed to be that tight or should I be able to manually move them easliy?  I didn't try to force them.

I checked continuity on the track and that's good.  Should I be getting voltage across the track?  And what should it be?

Thanks,
musket

[Len]

The 4-4-0 loco uses a worm gear drive, which pretty much locks the wheels in place unless the motor is spinning. If you hold a 9V batteries contacts against the pick-up wheels, does the motor run?

Which set do you have? There should be an item # somewhere on the box, or at least a set name.

Len

[musket]

Len, there's no number but it's The General.  I got a fresh 9v battery and it tested at 9.8v.  I put it across each set of wheels, as I'm not sure which are the contact wheels, but I think it's the front truck.  Anyway, it did not run. I tried the wheels on the engine and the tender.

To ask again, do you know if I should be getting voltage across the tracks?  I may have more than one problem, here.

Thanks for your input.
musket

[Len]

If the throttle is turned on and the speed control turned up, you should read DC voltage between the rails. If you're using EZ-Track make sure the connector on the end of the red cable is completely seated on the rerailer track connectors. Sometimes when new, it will feel like it's all the way on, but it's not. It takes a little extra push to seat it.

I believe the 'General' has the motor in the tender, with a drive shaft to the loco that turns the main gears. In which case electrical pick up uses the wheels on one side of the tender, and the opposite side of the loco.

So the 9V battery trick doesn't work, unless you have a snap on connector with wires (available at Radio Shack). In which case you snap the connector on the battery and touch one wire to a bronze pick up on the tender wheels, and the other to the screw in the back of the loco cab with a wire under it. If it runs, the problems either the power pack or the track connection.

Len

[musket]

Thanks, Len. I'll try the 9v and the track test.

[musket]

Well, I tried the 9v test and still got nothing.  I did notice the black wire from the tender to the loco was loose at the screw on the back of the loco.  I, also, was unable to get any voltage reading across the track nor from the accessory terminals on the controller.

Frankly, I think I have a bad motor AND a bad controller.  Any other ideas?

I want to get on the phone with Bachmann before I return it to the seller.  BTW, I bought it on eBay and I assume Bachmann will not cover repairs.  True?

Thanks,
musket

[ACY]

Bachmann will not service items bought on ebay unless they are a licensed dealer such as The Favorite Spot. Third party sellers are not covered, if you think it was from an authorized retailer, post the name or a link here and I can let you know for certain.
Most likely you will have to either return the item to the seller on ebay or pay the standard service fee and shipping for both items. Often times people sell defective items on ebay to take advantage of people who aren't very knowledgeable.
I am of the belief that it is extremely improbable that you have both a defective locomotive and controller. The controller is likely fine. Your problem is most likely related to a loose wire in the locomtive or a bad connection. You could also have a missing, loose, or broken part such as a universal. If your locomotive is several years old the wheels or pickups could have poor conductivity and could need cleaned even if it never was run.

[rogertra]

I want to get on the phone with Bachmann before I return it to the seller.  BTW, I bought it on eBay and I assume Bachmann will not cover repairs.  True?

Thanks,
musket

Sorry to say but there's your problem.  

Should have bought it from a reputable store.

Cheers

Roger T.

[musket]

I am of the belief that it is extremely improbable that you have both a defective locomotive and controller. The controller is likely fine. Your problem is most likely related to a loose wire in the locomtive or a bad connection. You could also have a missing, loose, or broken part such as a universal. If your locomotive is several years old the wheels or pickups could have poor conductivity and could need cleaned even if it never was run.
[/quote]

This is a brand new set and was still shrink wrapped.  That's not to say it isn't defective, however, it is less likely to have a missing part.  I think I'll call bachmann tomorrow just for any further test proceedures.

[ACY]

Do you know what a universal or worm gear is? Those can occasionally come loose or break and would be smallenough that you could easily lose them without ever realizing it when you handled the locomotive.

[musket]

I understand what you are saying, ACY, and I want to thank everyone for trying to help.  It seems that with the 9v test that I would atleast get the light to come on or hear the motor in the tender turning.

Now, I just had another thought.  If I hook the 9v battery to the track, would that be enough voltage to get some kind or response from the engine, IF it was working?

[TwinZephyr]

No DC voltage on the track with no trains on the track, and no AC voltage at the accessory terminals would indicate either a bad transformer or a bad speed controller.  You tested this with a voltmeter on the appropriate settings - right?

If you are going to test a locomotive by touching the wheels with a 9v battery you need to make sure you are applying power to those wheels which actually conduct electricity to the motor.  On Bachmann's old time 4-4-0 the motor gets power from four wheels on the tender (one truck is insulated on the right side the other is insulated on the left) and only one of the four drivers.  The headlight gets power from two wheels on the front truck and one driver.  The motor and headlight are different circuits - power to one does not indicate the other is getting power.

IIRC, Bachmann item number 736 has been on the market for less than a year.

[musket]

TwinZephyr, I didn't realize the acc. were AC and I AM getting AC power on those terminals on the power pack.  NO DC across the tracks.  But, I did get DC on the track when I hooked up the battery.

I can get the light to come on with your info.  Thanks.  After trying every combination of connections on the engine/tender, I was able to get enough juice to the motor which allowed me to turn the drivers with a little thumb help.  That's more that I got before.  They won't turn on their own.

I'll keep trying as I would like to keep The General.  They are hard to find and the eBayer doesn't have another one.

Thanks,
musket

[ACY]

A common ebay trick is to reseal a used or defective item in cellophane (clear plastic wrapping).

[Jerrys HO]

Here's a link provided by another member which used to post a lot of info....
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm

Also is this an HO and not N scale? Motor in the tender? I thought Ho motors were in the loco not tender.

Jerry