Spectrum GP30 noise

[Len]

M V Products makes an F7 headlight lens. Walthers carries them, but they're out of stock until mid-January next year. Mfg#: 516 Item#: 11.

You can also get the window set (ATH11016) directly from Athearn and use a piece of sprue to make your own headlight lens.

Len

[jbrock27]

Thank you Len.  I knew MV made them but had previously been given the wrong part #.  Thanks for clarifying and the tip on the sprue.  I was also told Details West also makes them-this true?

[DarG]

The grease I mentioned is Teflon based and meshes very well to the point it almost looks like a liquid.

Which link would you like? 

And instead of soldering wires directly to the truck tops, I solder them to female 1/4" electrical connectors that easily fit on and off the truck tops, this way I can easily dissemble for any future maintenance.

Do me a favor and let me know in your search, if you ever happen to come across those headlight lenses I am looking for ?

Thanks and you're welcome

Will keep an eye for the lenses.

I just took the motor apart.  Piece of cake.  Cant see why it's dead but I'm missing a clip and a spring so I'm swapping parts around.   When I come across some part's I'll try it again.

Spades to the arms, great idea.  Those little alligator clips may work as well.   Definitely will give it a go with one of the locos.   Also, I do have some thinner Teflon grease I can try.  I have to check for plastic compatibility.  It's more of a cream consistency actually.  If it's compatible, I'll give it a try. 

Thanks. 

[DarG]

By the way.  Anyone know what the copper motor clips are officially called?   I'm missing one for the bottom (the one with the contact tangs) of one motor. 

[Len]

The bronze clips on top and bottom are technically brush spring retainers. They come with replacement motors, and are no longer available separately. You may find them somewhere that carries parts for old Athearn locos.

Poke around the Athearn 'parts' page a bit, the new motors [ATH84086] aren't all that expensive. You will need the new mounting pads/screw kit [ATH84028], and the 'dog bone' end drive shafts [ATH49060] to fit the flywheels though. Other than that, they are a 'drop in' replacement for the old motors. Not exactly 'can' motors, but better than the old open frame stuff.

Details West makes headlight assemblies, and lenses for them, not the slip in lenses to plug directly into the F7A body.

Len

[jbrock27]

So Len, will those still work for the purpose I am looking for?  If so, do you have a part # for that assembly?  Thanks again.

Dar, which link did you want me to provide? 
Should not be a mystery why motor did not work w/o copper clip.
I would say no dice on alligator clips.  Too big for the purpose. 
Another suggestion on motor instead of buying new and having to re-purpose to fix old drive components- Ebay.  Look for either a whole loco that has the brass flywheel motor (you did not say how many axles for the one you are working on-this is important bc flywheel size (length) varies depending on number of loco axles) and cannibalize the motor.  You can also get your springs and brushes this way if you chose.  Or, for less $$ but less parts, look for just the motor on Ebay.

[DarG]

So Len, will those still work for the purpose I am looking for?  If so, do you have a part # for that assembly?  Thanks again.

Dar, which link did you want me to provide? 
Should not be a mystery why motor did not work w/o copper clip.
I would say no dice on alligator clips.  Too big for the purpose. 
Another suggestion on motor instead of buying new and having to re-purpose to fix old drive components- Ebay.  Look for either a whole loco that has the brass flywheel motor (you did not say how many axles for the one you are working on-this is important bc flywheel size (length) varies depending on number of loco axles) and cannibalize the motor.  You can also get your springs and brushes this way if you chose.  Or, for less $$ but less parts, look for just the motor on Ebay.

No, I swapped a clip and brush spring from another motor.  I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed but I'm not that dumb   

Yep, found out the clips are discontinued.  I'll check ebay for old motors or maybe clips or a grab bag of assorted parts will show up. 

I was wondering if you had a video link on the motor disassembly but I really don't need it.   Too easy.   That motor now works by the way.  I have no idea why it didn't before but I'm going to assume it was crud on the brushes.  They were bad.

I have some tiny alligator clips that I think would work but gonna get around to trying your spade connector trick.  I have those as well.  I'll also try clipping the brush springs when I get some spares.   


Thanks

[Len]

So Len, will those still work for the purpose I am looking for?  If so, do you have a part # for that assembly?  Thanks again.

If you're just looking to fill the empty hole and get light out, no, the DW part's not what you want. They provide complete headlight assemblies, with shades, MARS light, etc., of specific road types, e.g., Southern Pacific, Nickle Plate, etc., that do not include the lens. You have to get the lens separate, and may have to do some surgery to allow a separate headlight/MARS light LEDs to be mounted.

DW's mfg# on Walthers is 229. Use keyword 'light' to see what they've got.

Len

[jbrock27]

Thank you again for the info Len.  I will pass on the DW and continuing searching for the others.

Dar I know you are no dummy, but just in case we are speaking a different language on the connectors I am referring to, I am going to post a pic from the net.  When I hear "spade" connectors, I visualize the ones I crimp to wires to put under a screw of a power pack.  With the ones pictured, I trim off the portion where a wire would be crimped to using Lineman's pliers, so that I am left with just the rectangle.  I then solder light wire to the "top" of connector were there is lots of  surface to solder to.  I have tricks as well to keep the motor mounts in place if you want to know them.

http://www.autoconsumables.com/electrical-crimp-connector-terminals-semi-insulated-spade-red-female-to-fit-63mm-tab-width-3352-p.asp

[DarG]

Jbrock.   Now worries, I knew we were talking about the female disconnects.  Thanks for making sure we were on the same page anyway.

[Len]

I've found the cheapest place to find what they call, Quick Disconnects, is the local autoparts store. Unlike Radio Shack, the autoparts place sells seperate packs of male and female connectors. And you save the shipping charge, which is often more than the cost of the connectors.

Len

[jbrock27]

Just an FYI; I posted the pic for visual reference, not for promotion of that store (I don't even know or care about the business  name.  It was the best/first pic that came up under an "Image" search).  or any other online store for that matter.  If that was the case, I would have said so. 

Buuuuuuut, since the subject came up, I have bought these at auto parts stores, Radio Shack, Walfart and Home Depot.  No shipping charges.  However, speaking of shipping charges, there is an online store that I do like: MCM Electronics, that I have bought things from (yes, they have these) but I wait until they offer a $6.00 flat rate shipping charge, which happens often and then load up on what I need.  Good place to find Weller soldering tips.

[DarG]

This is off topic but I actually used a Tenma station that I purchased from MCM over a dozen years ago and just died recently. Most of it's use was light production work for soldering passive components in circuit boards that I developed to replace those in some vintage audio gear.  Also saw a lot of repair and even some new builds and plenty of cable and wire soldering.   I just replaced it with the digital display version of the same model.  If I get the 1/2 the life out of the new one it would still make me happy.   I used to buy from MCM all the time.

At any rate, I do have the quick disconnects already on hand, several sizes including .250
I've been looking at some motors on ebay.   Thanks for the warning.  I've noticed the larger flywheel and some 6 axle versions and I'll be careful because I see that the sellers don't always list the specifics.    Definitely going to try your shortened spring idea and see if it improves slow speed performance.        

Good info in this thread.  Really helps.  Thanks again.

[jward]

unless things have changed  athearn only had two sizes of motor. the small ones were use in the switchers like the sw7 and sw1500, and the larger ones for everything else whether 4 or 6 axle. there were also two sizes of flywheels, a short one for the switchers and a longer one for everything else.

the biggest problem you are likely to run into is that the newer flywheels have a slot for a dogbone type shaft, and the older ones have a ball for a snap in universal and spline. whatever type you have, you will also need the appropriate worm for them. the two types are not compatable with each other.

[jbrock27]

Dar, I have seen those Tenma units and have wondered about them.  You would recommend I take it?

Captain, the discussion was not about motor size but only flywheel size.  I am sorry, but you are incorrect in saying the same size (really the length) brass flywheel is in the 4 axle diesel as the 6 axle-the 6 axle more often than not, has a longer flywheel.  There are at least 2 sizes of brass flywheels, I would dare say 3 ( but don't have any SWs to confirm 100% even though I think the ones in them are the shortest) when we are discussing the kind of metal flywheel outfitted on the motors Dar has and is working on.  He's is searching for and comparing apples to apples when it comes to the linkage.  No need to worry about worms and such.  If he gets a motor that matches the one(s) he is looking for the parts for, he is all set.  Didn't you say at one time, it has been a while since you bought Athearn?

You are welcome Dar for the heads up.  I would avoid any Ebay seller who comes across as not wanting to cooperate with answering questions or posting additional pics when requested.  A clear pic of the underside of a loco should be mandatory for all sellers.

This gives me reason to ask Dar, what model Blue Box locos are you working on?  GPs? F7s?