making non DCC locomotives DCC ready

[billgiannelli]

Hello!
How can I convert a Bachmann locomotives from non DCC to DCC ready?
I purchased the "Jingle Bells" train set.
thanks
Bill

[ACY]

To make your locomotives DCC ready, ensure that the motor is isolated from the frame and then simply install a 8 pin or 9 pin socket if space allows. However you will need to install a decoder at which point you want to actually convert them to DCC which will be a simple task if you have already installed a socket to make the locomotives DCC ready.
Note that there is a difference between DCC ready and DCC equipped/on board. The former just means the motor is isolated and generally there is an 8 or 9 socket present. The latter is the locomtive actually has a DCC decoder already installed.
One thing I should probably add is that adding DCC does not include sound unless you purchase a sound decoder and speaker. This particular locomotive you have does not lend itself to installing DCC of any kind much less a DCC sound decoder. This locomotive also in my opinion would be very difficult for a beginner to install DCC due to the space limitation, the limited power pick up (no tender pick up) just to name a few of the barriers.

[billgiannelli]

Hello ACY!
Thanks for your reply!
The locomotive I have has no 8 or 9 pin socket and no DCC module onboard. It is not DCC or DCC ready.
thanks
Bill

[ACY]

Hello ACY!
Thanks for your reply!
The locomotive I have has no 8 or 9 pin socket and no DCC module onboard. It is not DCC or DCC ready.
thanks
Bill

I know you asked how to make It DCC ready,  not how to install a DCC decoder. If you see my addendum,  I explained the difference in the terminology and went on to explain that this locomotive was not a good candidate for DCC conversion especially for a beginner.
However if you are really set on the conversion, I can list off everything I would do to convert your locomotive to DCC.

[riff99]

I always find it better to actually SEE what is being explained, rather than try and guess at what is being explained.  Here's a few basic idea-clips for converting to DCC:

http://youtu.be/Hgr3l_CkaDc  -  *TIPS* How to DCC a non-DCC Ready Locomotive

http://youtu.be/xMnY_5ORxT0   -  How to Convert a DC lococomotive to DCC Made Easy

http://youtu.be/p-CyiPhvEds  -  DCC Corner: How to Install a DCC Decoder into a Locomotive

These are just a few of many I've seen on YouTube about getting you locos to DCC Ready or converted fully to DCC with decoder, but I always come back here to talk with the experts when I experience difficulties, as these gents are very good at explaining their crafts.  Good Luck!

[jward]

your locomotive is a usra 0-6-0. i searched the net for step by step instructions for adding a decoder to this locomotive but the decoder manufacturers don't have installation guides for this particular loco. but i was able to find this:

http://www.girr.org/girr/girr_ho/girr_ho.html#dcc

scroll down the page, and you will find an 0--0 with a different tender than yours. don't be fooled, mechanically, it is the same loco. this loco will need a z scale decoder due to a lack of space, and this page shows how one person was able to get a decoder to fit in place of the smoke unit. this is not a simple install by any means, but doesn't appear to be overly difficult if you have some soldering experience.

[Doneldon]

BillG-

There isn't a reason to make a locomotive DCC Ready except in the process of converting to DCC. A DCC ready loco won't run any
different on DC than will an unmodified loco. 
                                                                    -- D

[billgiannelli]

Hello!
Thank you all for all your help and info!
I am thinking of installing the decoder into the tender and hot-wiring it to the engine.
Any suggestions or instructions on how best to run wiring from the tender to the engine?
I would have to drill several small holes.
thanks
Bill

[Irbricksceo]

Keep in mind the following: Those 0-6-0's use split frame pickups (at least the older ones did). this was changed when they started adding DCC. Now, I mention this because it is a good idea to add either/or metal wiper pickups on the drivers or, if you can, tender pickups. I haven't done tender pickups on 0-6-0's as I don't run them but I know jonathan has and has had success with it as the added pickups will help prevent dead spots stalling your 0-6-0, a common issue with them.

[billgiannelli]

Hi Irbricksceo,
Thanks for the advice!
The wheels and axles of the engine are all metal. But I am not sure if the motor is insulated. I don't think so.
What would I need to do to insulate the motor? I do plan to add pickups to the tender.
thanks
Bill

[jward]

another of my favourite links shows how to do this on  split frame diesel. the procedure should be similar on your steam loco.
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html

the author used to be a regular on this forum.

[billgiannelli]

Hello Jward,
Thank you for the info!
It seems to me that the motor on my engine is getting power just from direct contact with the split frame without wires to the pickups. Is that correct?
So I would need to add wires from the pickups to the motor and then insulate it from the split frame as shown in the link you provided?
Do I have that correct?
thanks
Bill

[jward]

yes, that should be the case. when i did my diesels, i removed the copper brush caps from the motor and soldered my wires directly to them. that way, i didn't melt anything when making the connections. just be careful not to lose the motor brush springs as the motor won't run without them. only do one side at a time and test the motor before you put it back in the locomotive. as a matte of fact, it is a good idea whenever doing dcc conversions of any locomotive to work slowly and carefully, and test each connection with an ohmmeter before you go on to the next step. that way you can correct any mistakes before they become a problem that could fry a decoder.


as i had mentioned before, comverting split frame type locomotives to dcc is not difficult, but it does take a little time.

[billgiannelli]

Hello,
Thanks to everyone for the information.
I am starting with looking at adding pickups to the tender and install the decoder and speaker in the tender also.
There are to weight plates at the bottom of the tender.
Would you advise I remove them? Or is it possible to cut a hole through this steel weight for the speaker to project sound through the bottom of the tender?
thanks
Bill

[Doneldon]

bill-

You can loosen the weights in the tender and perhaps reinstall them on the sides. I urge you not to make your tender lighter than
NMRA standards (1 oz. plus .5 oz. per inch of length). You can certainly add power pick-ups to your tender if it has none, install your
decoder in the tender and drill holes through the floor to let the sound out.
                                                                                                                 -- D