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Building an E-Z track layout

Started by Saved1, November 08, 2014, 04:21:24 PM

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Saved1

Well, since I went out and bought a new Bachmann DCC E-Z command train set (Thunder Chief set) so, I started lurking this forum after i bought the set for a while and thought it was time to come out lol.

I have already started doing a video series of the build of my layout but i thought i would also do a thread about it here as well, I'm not much into doing threads and pics and all but i do fairly well in trying lol

i'll post the videos as well as some pics and details of the build here.

I have started building a new layout using that train set with the E-Z track and i can tell you that using the E-Z track is challenging but i like a good challenge lol, so far I have build a 56x118 table that is 42 inches tall for the layout,



it is on wheels so that i can place it in the center of the room as a walk around layout.

The layout has regular left and right turnouts and left and right crossovers all are the decoder equipped type and so far they work great with the E-Z command controller.




The layout will have an old Bachmann bridge that i have had for over 20 years haha and i will make a tunnel for it as well. i will be using the woodland scenics sub terrain system for it and as you can see i already laid the 2 inch risers.



i have also laid a 2% incline set that i had to custom cut to fit the track layout.



I made a template for a riverbed, or creek bed which ever you want to call it lol that i will make and i have a pond mold that will be put somewhere in the area in the pic



here's another pic with a profile board in place just so i can get an idea of what it may look like




I soldered most of the rails together and did all the weathering on the ties and track rails, was not easy on the E-Z track but it came out good, i think haha

a couple of pics of the crossovers weathered just to give you an idea of how the rest looks. I painted the rails with a rust color mixed with a little black shade to it and painted the ties with a brownish black mixture.




here are the videos i have made so far.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQrLPbHcZ0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpAHqetOUhg

that's it for now, i will be working on the build more and more (mostly weekends) and i'll post some more as i make more progress.

Bucksco

Looks great so far! Keep us posted on your progress.

Saved1

Quote from: Yardmaster on November 08, 2014, 04:27:20 PM
Looks great so far! Keep us posted on your progress.

Hey thanks Yardmaster, i will try to keep updating this thread. It's been fun so far working with the E-Z track, some challenges but what's a layout without the challenges haha  :P

Striker1945

Hey man! Really liking what you've done so far!
Was wondering what you did to weather the track?

Saved1

Quote from: Striker1945 on November 08, 2014, 07:10:54 PM
Hey man! Really liking what you've done so far!
Was wondering what you did to weather the track?

Thanks, I used a combination of colors, for the ties i used a flat brownish color with a hint of flat soot color and a top layer of woodland scenics weathering pen.

for the rails i first painted them flat black then i used a combination of colors, first i used the woodland scenics rail weathering pen then, i used some watered down flat rust color (gunze sangyo from japan) then, as the final coat i used testors flat rust color to give it a darker look.

it was not easy weathering the E-Z track but with some patience and a steady hand it came out pretty good.

Jerrys HO

Great start S1,
What radius is the outer and inner loops?
I weathered my EZ track also but ran into a problem around the points. Had to use a little thinner to loosen them up. The paint was causing them to hang up. Have you tried throwing yours to see if they are sticking? Manually they were fine but the switch motors would cause them to hang up.

Saved1

Quote from: Jerrys HO on November 09, 2014, 09:37:40 AM
Great start S1,
What radius is the outer and inner loops?
I weathered my EZ track also but ran into a problem around the points. Had to use a little thinner to loosen them up. The paint was causing them to hang up. Have you tried throwing yours to see if they are sticking? Manually they were fine but the switch motors would cause them to hang up.


Thanks Jerrys HO, The outer loops are 22 radius and the inner is 18 i did 22 on the outer lane for better operation and it worked out great.

At first I had that same problem with the points sticking a little but once the paint dried they were all fine i think watering down the paint helped for that plus i wiped them off fairly well while the paint was still wet, in this video you could see them all working fine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpAHqetOUhg

Trainman203

Be very careful ballasting around the switches.  Put a little oil under the throw rod and don't ballast around the point rails at all until you have a whole evening for each switch to go tie by tie individually with pipette application of alcohol and scenic cement.  Don't rush this, I did and paid the price.

I'd paint the roadbed too because one rock out of place with those nice thin ties and you'll see grey plastic.  Be careful around the slot for the throwing actuator too, gravel in there can gum it up very easily.  Also, when applying anything around switch point rails, try to get the points centered in mid throw so that when everything is dry it's not hard to loosen the points back up.

I know all of this stuff because each thing was learned the hard way.  E-z track is easy to get a layout down fast and running, looks pretty good when painted and ballasted, but if you deviate from a track plan that uses standard sections, it can get rough trying to cut and fit odd pieces.

jbrock27

E-z track ... can get rough trying to cut and fit odd pieces.

This is where using standard sectional track and flex track has an advantage.  Using a pair of Xuron rail cutters, you can cut to just about any specific length you want (need), easily.
Keep Calm and Carry On

Saved1

Quote from: Trainman203 on November 09, 2014, 11:42:57 AM
Be very careful ballasting around the switches.  Put a little oil under the throw rod and don't ballast around the point rails at all until you have a whole evening for each switch to go tie by tie individually with pipette application of alcohol and scenic cement.  Don't rush this, I did and paid the price.

I'd paint the roadbed too because one rock out of place with those nice thin ties and you'll see grey plastic.  Be careful around the slot for the throwing actuator too, gravel in there can gum it up very easily.  Also, when applying anything around switch point rails, try to get the points centered in mid throw so that when everything is dry it's not hard to loosen the points back up.

I know all of this stuff because each thing was learned the hard way.  E-z track is easy to get a layout down fast and running, looks pretty good when painted and ballasted, but if you deviate from a track plan that uses standard sections, it can get rough trying to cut and fit odd pieces.

Thanks for the sound advice Trainman203, i hear you about the point area i do plan on being kinda sparing on the ballast in those areas. I also do put the points in med throw as a precaution it worked good when i did the weathering. I did not Paint the middle section between the ties because i plan on adding the ballast carefully but, i might mess it up how knows only time will tell lol

I will take apart the switch section when i apply the cement although around the point area like this




And i have already made little ballast sections to cover the manual throw area, like this



I also use this liquid electric tape to coat the electronics, been using it for years on my rc truck electronics without fail works every time. it gives a good seal to protect the electronics from liquid.


Saved1

Quote from: jbrock27 on November 09, 2014, 01:19:32 PM
E-z track ... can get rough trying to cut and fit odd pieces.

This is where using standard sectional track and flex track has an advantage.  Using a pair of Xuron rail cutters, you can cut to just about any specific length you want (need), easily.

I have not had any problems so far with the E-Z track and i did have to cut a small section of it for my bridge section which i will cover later when i get to that point, granted i do have a bandsaw and just use a micro file to clean off any burrs on the rails, i also have some sections that i will use on the layout (tunnel section) that is standard track (code 100) i did not have to cut the tunnel section and i had no problems with making it fit/match to the E-Z track but it is a challenge to get the standard track to match the E-Z track.

Trainman203

#11
Nice!  A pre made ballast cap to install over the slot on the switch.  Why didn't I think of that.  Great idea.  This is why we have forums.

I am going to install operable switch stands on my switches, Caboose Industries high level stands.  Concealing that slot has always been a bugaboo that I could not think of how to fix other than gluing a bush over it.  Thanks!

Saved1

Quote from: Trainman203 on November 09, 2014, 04:57:38 PM
Nice!  A pre made ballast cap to install over the slot on the switch.  Why didn't I think of that.  Great idea.  This is why we have forums.

I am going to install operable switch stands on my switches, Caboose Industries high level stands.  Concealing that slot has always been a bugaboo that I could not think of how to fix other than gluing a bush over it.  Thanks!

you're welcome, yes i agree that is why forums are so important. The switch stand sounds like a good idea i'm just going to get some of those cheap $2.00 fake ones to place next to the switch on each one  :P

Saved1

I made some more progress today, i put down some plaster cloth on the tunnel section and i also cut the tunnel walls and painted them flat black. right before i put the walls in place i will add some ballast and some random rocks to line the tunnel area probably only the first 8 inches or so.






I also laid down the section of foam roadbed for the tunnel section and working with this foam was so easy, it curved around the radius extremely easy.



here i added some old cork i had laying around to fill in the empty void under the track to lessen the noise and i will fill in the rest of the smaller gaps with some thin weather stripping, i have already tried this and it helps deadened the sound do to the empty void under the E-Z track a lot.



so, i want to wire up some signal lights to my switches so that when i throw each switch the lights will turn on and off respectively, does anyone know which wire does what lol or does anyone have the wiring diagram for these DCC decoder equip turnouts and crossovers?



Mr. Bachmann tech ... help!! haha i guess i could go through the motions of figuring out the wiring but if anyone know the wiring let me know.

jbrock27

Jesus Saves, And A Beauty!, never inferred you or anyone had any problems with their EZ track, just pointing out how it is easier to cut non roadbed track with Xuron cutters.  To me, that makes for an advantage for the use of sectional track or flex track, w/o roadbed.  Not everyone has a band-saw at their disposal. 
Nice work, lookin good.  The time and planning you are putting in shows ;).
Keep Calm and Carry On