insulating 0-6-0 split frame motor

[billgiannelli]

Hello,
I have a Bachmann "Jingle Bells Express" USRA 0-6-0.
In order to add a decoder; how would I go about insulating the motor?
thanks
Bill

[Doneldon]

Bill-

Not necessary! The 0-6-0 has a can motor which is already isolated from the frame.

                                                                                                                  -- D

[billgiannelli]

Hi Doneldon,
Thank you for the info!
Bill

[billgiannelli]

Hi Doneldon,
I am still unsure of how to wire a decoder to the motor.
The motor has 2 wires going to the headlamp only.
There are no other wires for the power pickups.
would I solder the decoder wires directly to the motor?
I see the contacts where the light wires go into the motor and other contacts not currently being used.
It seems to me that the motor gets power from direct contact to the frame halves. Do I have that right?
And if so do I need to add wires no from the power pickups to the motor/decoder?
thanks
Bill

[jward]

if that is what you have then the motor is not isolated. when you'd asked about this earlier, I had provided a link on how to do this in a split frame diesel. the procedure is similar with steam. in either case you'll have to completely disassemble the locomotive to get to the motor to isolate it.

here is the link again,,,,,,


http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html

[jonathan]

Not sure what version of the 0-6-0 you have, but perhaps this will help:

With the shell removed, if you look in the back of the motor, you will see a springy-type mechanism that rests between the motor tabs and the locomotive frame.  This is where the motor picks up current from the split frame.  To isolate, it is as simple as removing the spring mechanism and/or placing a small piece of electrical tape on the frame, where the spring mechanism touches the frame halves.

So, to visualize, the right and left (+/-) current would move from the frame halves, to the decoder, then to the motor.  In a nutshell you are wiring the decoder BETWEEN the frame halves and the motor.

Does that make sense or did I muddy the waters even further? 

Regards,

Jonathan

[billgiannelli]

Hello!
And thank you everyone for all your help and information.
I apologize for the redundant questions.
I am not seeing any springy mechanism. I just see 2 wires from the light to the motor.

[Doneldon]

Bill-

I agree with the two previous posters that your motor is not isolated from the frame halves. In effect, the two sides of the frame function as the wires from the wheels to the motor and the two wires you see carry the power on to the light. If this is so, your headlight should be on any time your loco is on a track with the power pack turned up about 30% or more.

You must isolate the motor if you want to install DCC. There are a couple of ways to do that. The easiest is to replace the existing motor with a can motor. Can motors all have isolated motors inside so all you must do is correct the decoder's orange and gray wires to it. And you connect the existing headlight wires to the decoder's yellow (front) and yellow (rear), with the other wire for each attached to the decoder's common positive (blue) wire. If you use a can motor, the decoder's black (left rail) and red wires (right rail) can be attached to the respective frame halves or wheel wipers.

In order to use your existing motor you will need to put insulating material (like some thin rubber or plastic) between the frame halves and use nylon screws or plastic fillers anywhere the frame halves are connected by metal. This can get pretty complicated. Also, connect the wires from the decoder the same as if you are using a can motor. Whether you use your existing motor or a can, you may need to mill out some added space for the motor.

Good luck.
                  -- D