How to Disassemble Medium Vanderbilt Tender?

[Pacific Northern]

As I have stated twice

You lift up the rear of the tank after the two screws have been removed from the bottom of the car.

Under the tank (rear) you find the circuit board.

Why I can open two of these and yours are stuck shut is beyond me.

I suggest you try prying the tank from the bottom once the two screws are out.

[rogertra]

Must admit, from the diagram Pacific Northern has hit the nail on the head.

[rogertra]

Perhaps you just need to gently squeeze the tank where it joins the coal bunker?

[GARYBEAR]

As I have previously stated

I've attempted to open not one, but two, NIB tenders after removing the two screws.  I have been unable to get the rear tank to separate, or even give hint that it is capable of separation.  The tank remains solid! 

Does any (who has gotten one of these apart) see where I could insert a screw driver, or Xacto knife, and pry it open? 

Thanks.

[GARYBEAR]

This discussion thread has come to a successful conclusion as indicated by the following image:



Close examination of the disassembled components reveal that the upper tank had been GLUED to the chassis where the back of the tank meets the chassis.

For those wishing to follow in my steps, I leave the following guidelines and cautions:

1) I used a hobby knife to gain the release of the stubborn upper tank section.  I had initially attempted to pry under the side viewed in the picture, but release did not come until I had pried on the opposite side under the rear and middle sections of the tank.  It released with a start causing me concern that the knife may have done damage to the circuit board or wiring (which is possible).  Note the lip on the removed upper tank: use care to get the knife under this lip.

2) While loose, several more steps are necessary in order to free the upper tank.  The upper handrails need to be separated from the front of the tender.  I was able to remove one by hand, but the second one required the use of light needle nose pliers.  While holding the upper tank nearly in its original position, it is necessary to back the tank away from the front section in order to free a tongue that secures that connection.   I was surprised to yet be unable to remove the upper tank.  It took some horsing around to remove the upper tank with an upwards movement.  A view of the components and fittings explains why the upward movement is necessary.  I was surprised that the leveraging motion from the rear of the tank is only applicable to step 1).

Regarding the removal of the trucks, I find that the screws to the trucks are secured by nuts that will simply spin when loosened.  Under the each nut is a thin brass washer to which a wire has been soldered.  This is capable of winding with the turn of the screw if not managed from the open tender.  It may be necessary to remove the circuit board to manage the removal of the rear truck, but access to the front truck is not as yet apparent.

I applaud the engineering of the tender light as there are no wires to frustrate the removal of the upper tank.  A plastic light straw conducts the light from the bulb that is seen aimed vertically at the rear of the open tender.

I wish more immediate success to those who subsequently attempt the disassembly of the Bachmann HO Medium Vanderbilt Tender.

-Gary

[rogertra]

Congrats.

Wonder when and why they decided to glue the thing together?

[GN.2-6-8-0]

Who can say ' with screws holding it together there i ???s absoluty no reason for glue.
also thought this post should be brought back to the fore front...

[electrical whiz kid]

Is it glue-or is it possibly paint?  A lot of this stuff is made to strict tolerances and all it would take is a hairline separation-not even-for paint to "creep" inside and dry, thus acting as an "adhesive' and bonding the two pieces together..  I had the same issues until I reasoned that possibility, and with that mindset, things then went OK.
Rich C.