Berkshire conversions...NKP to B&A A-6

[electrical whiz kid]

With regard to Bachmann's Berkshire model.  Would anyone have an idea as to much work would be required to get a fair representation of a Boston and Albany A-6 Berkshire.  I have looked for good photos that could pass for decent elevations to no avail. 
I have always loved the DVD photo of them in action. 
Rich C. 

[ryeguyisme]

Hey Rich,

actually from the looks of it, it's not too far off, I've also toyed with the idea of converting the Bachmann Berks into something.

[electrical whiz kid]

Rye;
Yeah-I used to see them when I was visiting out this way as a kid.  They were pretty impressive.  Never saw them around home (Boston), and used to see a lot of BA stuff back then.

Rich C.

[ebtnut]

The one big difference from the Bachmann to the B&A is the driver size.  IIRC, the B&A locos had 63" drivers; the NKP/Erie/C&O locos used 69" drivers.  There is a visual difference. 

[electrical whiz kid]

EB;
I was referring to things like valve gear, superstructure, etc.  For instance, I know about the Elesco feedwater heaters, and the bulbous sand dome.  The four-inch difference in driver size I am honestly willing to live with; especially if I remove my specs.
RIch C.

[ryeguyisme]

If I'm remembering correctly Precision Scale  makes some parts that may be of some use to you... if you want to borrow my catalog, you're more than welcome to!

[electrical whiz kid]

Rye;
Thanks-I have both Cal-Scale as well as Precision.  Got me a whole mess of brass parts too, thanks to the shows, etc.  That sand dome I could probably do without though...  It is as ugly as a bowl of mud.  I figure what is good enough for John Allen, etc...  Oh, I also found me a great pilot on evil-bay a while back; this might look good on a C&O heavy Mike; the one with the (yep) Elesco heat exchanger and cross-compound pumps on the nose.
Oh, sometime this winter, I am going to do the "Americanization" to the other SY Mike-"Green Card Mike #2"!  I have one problem with the first one, and that is the brass pony I put on it shorts out.  I \will NOT put on plastic wheels, so I will cast another pony-in epoxy.  That should do the trick.

Rich C.

[Irbricksceo]

OH THE HUMANITY! CUTTING APART A BEAUTIFUL SY! Nah, I know you don;t like the Chinese look. Do you have something you did to yours that improved pulling power? My SY is my favorite loco (so much so that it will eventually get sound when I can splurge that kind of cash) but it is so light that it can barely pull a small set of cars. This isnt that big an issue on my CURRENT set up but Eventually I want to have it pulling a decent set.

[electrical whiz kid]

There is one thing I have found out over the years:  John Allen did this to his engines and so do I.  I stick lead in every nook and cranny I can find; whether it is fishing weights, lead wool, etc.  The more you can install, the better things will run!  I (*try to) keep everything lubricated  also (except the track-work) keep movements as smoothly as I can.  I have installed those Tomar pickups on a couple of units and it helps.   Also, I have become fiendish about good track-work-smooth, plumb, and even; the great accent upon track not becoming skewed when installed.  I have learned (the hard way) that even the slightest twist/distortion (which is fine for playing music) will raise hell with operation.  Murphy likes to hang around my layout; maybe he likes yours too...
RIch C.

[rogertra]

OH THE HUMANITY! CUTTING APART A BEAUTIFUL SY! Nah, I know you don;t like the Chinese look. Do you have something you did to yours that improved pulling power? My SY is my favorite loco (so much so that it will eventually get sound when I can splurge that kind of cash) but it is so light that it can barely pull a small set of cars. This isnt that big an issue on my CURRENT set up but Eventually I want to have it pulling a decent set.

I've attacked quite a few steam locos, and diesels for that matter, over the years.  My wife says the same thing that you wrote.  I think half my steam fleets has at least modified tenders and others have all weather cabs etc., etc..  It's a fun part of the hobby.

As for weight, as Rich C says, cram as much as you can into every nook and cranny but my extra advice is to try to keep it balanced around the centre of the driving wheels for better pulling power.  My Athearn 2-8-2s, notoriously poor pullers when released, can easily manage 20 car freights with added weight.

Cheers

Roger T.

[electrical whiz kid]

Irbricksceo and Roger;
The late Bill Schopp was not one to dawdle over a brass (!!!!!) model; rather it was "Damn the torpedos, etc; etc; etc...".  As far as doing the "great hybridization", I TRY never go into a project with not more than a gleam in my eye.  Ruining an expensive locomotive-waste bothers me also-is a place I choose not to go.  As with other endeavours, plan it out before-not afterward...
That SY isn't a great puller, but then what would you be likely to be doing with it?  More than likely, it is being used on a local with not too many cars; a pedlar run, etc.  I wouldn't class it as a road engine, but that is me.  Proto roads did tandems, so will I.
In terms of weight:  A good point brought up by Roger T.  Balance, especially in a  rigid frame locomotive where there is always a bit of vibration, should be of a priority.  Many hairs will stay fastened to one's scalp , as well as less cuss words uttered if you do..  He also brings up enjoying this hobby.  This should be the ultimate goal; no matter what you are doing here, be happy doing it.

Rich C.
 

[Irbricksceo]

you are certainly right in that the SY, in real life, did work on short lines and a lot of switching on industrial plants (there are neat videos of them moving molten iron) The fact that it struggles so easily bugs me a bit is all. Then again, once I get the new layout (or rather the money for the new layout) I'll more than likely have the SY spend most of its time doing just that.

[ryeguyisme]

Rye;
Thanks-I have both Cal-Scale as well as Precision.  Got me a whole mess of brass parts too, thanks to the shows, etc.  That sand dome I could probably do without though...  It is as ugly as a bowl of mud.  I figure what is good enough for John Allen, etc...  Oh, I also found me a great pilot on evil-bay a while back; this might look good on a C&O heavy Mike; the one with the (yep) Elesco heat exchanger and cross-compound pumps on the nose.
Oh, sometime this winter, I am going to do the "Americanization" to the other SY Mike-"Green Card Mike #2"!  I have one problem with the first one, and that is the brass pony I put on it shorts out.  I \will NOT put on plastic wheels, so I will cast another pony-in epoxy.  That should do the trick.

Rich C.

I can relate to you on shorting problems especially considering I run brass with brass brake shoes. John Allen did have a C&O styled berkshire made from a H0bbyline static kit with a drive kit made for it. This engine was plastic so it melted/burned away.

Heaven forbid I start learning how to cast my own parts, I'm already delving into 3D printing technology and 3D concepts.

As far as ugly domes, I cut the dome off and try to save it for possible future projects and try to get a nice smooth surface using bondo and sanding away the excess:






Though the dome for the berks is rather big , you may have better results using sheet styrene.

I have been contemplating on getting a few of the Bachmann Berks to kitbash them into a generic freight/passenger hauler for my freelance road, I've already done the visualization in my head.

[electrical whiz kid]

Rye Guy;
I like the NK Berkshire sand dome, so it stays.  Like I said; if it worked for John Allen..I am, at present, building some of the older car kits I have accumulated over the year(s).  The one thing I am disappointed with is the lack of good kits like there used to be, but  I guess that is the evolution process in action.  Building kits is one of the things I enjoy the most in this hobby.
Rich C.