Relatively new - with questions

[Scott_ATL]

I'm relatively new to model trains, having dabbled in it as a teenager 30 years ago. I'm wanting to "disconnect" from modern technology overload (where everything is computer/digital oriented), so I recently purchased a Bachmann ready-to-run set from eBay. It was advertised as HO scale, new & unused. It ended up being N scale, and heavily used (run hard and put away wet). Fortunately, I paid relatively little for it, and N scale is actually a better fit for my available space. The set is the Bachmann White Christmas Express, containing a standard EZ track oval, with base power pack, three cars and an 0-6-0 Steamer. After opening up the box, and setting things up per the instructions...nothing happened. Two hours later of heavy track cleaning (denatured alcohol & lint-free rags) and cleaning the wheels on the steamer (and oiling axles & gears w/ plastic safe oil)...the train runs well. It could run better at slower speeds, but at 50, it runs smooth pulling the three including cars and I am pleased. The 34" x 24" standard oval layout is really small, and I have room for expansion - up to 36" wide x 60"long. I have downloaded AnyRail and I am playing with multiple layouts, designs, etc. (Ok, not so computer disconnected as I had hoped.) I've also been reading these forums, and absorbing as much information as I can, and have come up with a few items that need clarification.

1) Feeder track - I understand that it is recommended every 3 feet of track for larger layouts. Do you power these feeders from the same output as the primary power to the track? Or do you use the accessory outputs? (At the moment, I'm keeping the base controller that came with the set - {46605A}. ) If it is from the primary power cord to the track/rerailer - do you splice in the feeders? or are there junctions available?

2) Turnouts - which is better, the #4 or #6? I'm assuming the #6 is better, as the turn out is more gradual. These are wired to the accessory output to control the switch? And what are "frogs"?

3) I've read to avoid chicanes, and to keep inclines at or less than 4%. Valid?

4) Can the EZ Track be used with the older Bachmann/Atlas/Etc. N gauge track, once I finalize my layout and make it permanent?

5) Since my system will be analogue for now, am I able to run DCC equipped trains on my system? (Factory installed, not with aftermarket chipsets installed.) If not, that isn't an issue at the moment - there are plenty of non-DCC trains out there.

I'm certain more questions will arise later, but this should get me going.

Thanks!

[kmcsjr]

Welcome
I will take a shot at a few of these
5) yes. All modern dcc equipped locos will run on dc, unless the dc function was turned off by an owner programmi g the loco.
4) short answer. Not easily. Longer answer, if you are willing to work a little, you can make a section of transition track that will mate any 2 brands.
3) i dont know what a chcane is, but limiting inclines is a good idea. Individual locos and individual loco models run very differently on grades.
2) frogs are the common bits at the middle of a turnout. As a rule, the largest turnouts you can fit are best. The smaller the turnout, the more likely it will impede speed. In reality, if you are sticking to a small layout, 4s are fine, but you will decide as you grow in the hobby. My suggestion is dont buy turnouts, until you have a layout planned, then buy what fits.
You might power them from the acc output, or they might be manual. On a small layout, Id start with manuals, as you can reach them anyway and they are less expensive. Buy powered ones when ready.
1) feeders... best for last. You will find folks that solder feeders to every piece of track. I run a number of smaall loops, with 1 feeder per loop. I am also building a dcc layout with feeders every 3 or so feet. With your small loop, while playing, youre fine with the 1 feeder. If you go permanent,ie, gluing your track down, adding scenery etc, I'd suggest pay close attn to the pos and negative rail, and add feeders ecwry few pieces of track. There are many commercially available junctions when you are ready

[James in FL]

Hi Scott_ATL,

I'll pretty much echo kmcsjr.

1) Yes, you power from the same DC output. If you have a straight re-railer/terminal tracks opposite each other, on the oval, you can go from your power supply into one side of the terminal track and out from the other side, across the middle of the oval, to the other terminal track (check polarity). Look for Bachmann item44498. Atlas also sells terminal joiners, p/n 2539, which you can use if you don't have two Bachmann terminal/re-railer sections. Again, check polarity, failure to do this will cause a short and trip your power supply. I think the every 3 feet recommendation is a remnant from days long past. If you think about it, that means your loco will never be more than 18in. from any feed, way overkill IMO especially for DC running. Every 6 feet is plenty meaning your lokie will never be more than 3ft from a feeder. I don't want you to take my word for it, so break out your multimeter and check voltage drop for yourself. The majority of your resistance will come from the joiners between each section. Soldering minimizes this. The voltage drop in the middle of a 6ft. (feeders at each end) soldered section is negligible.
2) Depends on what you have room for. Generally, as with curve radius, the bigger the better. Yes, these are wired to the accessory out-put of your controller. It is possible to run them on their own separate power supply AC or DC, but you stated you wish to utilize your existing power supply, so run them from your AC accessory output. You can daisy chain your turnouts from this output. The frog is the place where the two lines separate (divergent/main) in the trackage. Some are plastic some are metal. Powering the frog and power routing maybe best for another thread.
3) Yes, S curves can be troublesome, but is not near the issue some make it out to be. A lot depends on the wheelbase of your rolling stock and if your couplers are truck mounted or body mounted. But in general it's just good practice to utilize a straight section, as long as your longest car, between opposing curvature. As to grade, this depends on many factors including but not limited to rolling resistance of rolling stock, head end power, curves along the grade etc. I would agree however 4% is near the upper limit and I think the advice to stay below that is good.
4) Yes, some shimming will be required and other slight modification (removal of connecting tabs), joiners, but doable.  
5) Most (not all) decoders are dual mode and unless (function) disabled are compatible with DC or DCC.                                                                                                                                                                                            

Might I suggest, your most important investment into the hobby is in your power supply. Train set power packs are just that. Look at what's available and what you think your requirements will be in the future, then buy the next step up from that.  12 volts is enough but how many amps do you need?  Are you going to double, or triple, or quadruple head? Your old ones can always be utilized in turnout control or layout lighting or animation, etc... You will be amazed at the difference.  FWIW  
Good luck