Help Need HO Scale Steam Locomotive that steams and whistles

[jbrock27]

I never heard of Wen but as I mentioned before, Weller tips are easily found, in a lot of places.  That would be my main concern with other brands-the availability of replacement tips.  That said, I do like SEARS and LOWES products.

[Jhanecker2]

Wen is sold by Menards  and  Home Depot  in the Chicago &  Rockford  areas in Illinois.  Radio Schack  was a sort of late entry into the Chicago area back in the early 1970's  having  bought out  Allied Radio at that time . There were a good number of consumer electronics companies in the area at that time most of which are now gone sadly .    I sometimes do business with a Company called Newark Electronics  , they are a nationwide distributor and may be in your area.   John2.

[jbrock27]

Thanks.  I am not in the market for anything by Wen, but a GOOGLE search does not turn up any soldering tool made by them other than the gun style.  No pencils no stations.

[Martha]

Had a fairly good weekend wiring as planned. I have run into one problem and not sure how to avoid it in the future.

One of the new Xmas trees I bought is powered by a 4.5 volt battery or adapter. It has a rheostat on it to increase/decrease the blinking.  I don't want anything powered with batteries so opted use the adapter. I didn't want it blinking either so I snipped the wires from the battery box, hooked up a 4.5 volt adapter I have. I  turned on power and bingo I have lights. Well for a short time, one by one (before I even noticed) the LED lamps burnt out. I cut the power and cursed quite a bit to be honest. What the heck? This tree actually used a resistor for each lamp. The lamps must be 1 mm, they are so tiny like a grain of rice. I figured this tree would not be a problem hooking it up to the adapter as there were resistors used. What caused them to burn out? It was a pretty tree, still is but won't be lighted any longer. I am cursed when it comes to this wiring stuff!

[Doneldon]

Martha-

Did the lights work okay when they were connected to the battery box? If so, but they failed on the transformer, they were probably getting less than 4.5 volts from the batteries. Assuming you don't have some kind of exotic batteries, there should have been three batteries in the box.

I've never seen a rheostat-like gizmo which could modify the speed of blinking. Possibly it was a real rheostat which gave less than the full output of the batteries (again assuming there were no exotic batteries and you had three batteries in the box).

Also, the lights went out one after the other because they were wired in such a way that the current increased as the load was lessened. I had some low-voltage garden lights which would do the same thing. They were just great as long as I had lights which totaled near the adaptor's capacity but they would begin burning out as soon as one failed. If I didn't notice that one had burned out I might not have noticed until more were out. The speed of the burning out accelerated as each bulb failed.

I think you need to find out just what your bulbs want for power. You can hook them up to your power pack and then slowly turn up the power to the point you have the right power. Of course, you won't know how much power that is with most power packs. It would be better to use a voltmeter in the circuit. You can also see if the load is written anywhere on the light string. Theoretically, the output from the power brick should tell you but I have a hunch that may not be so in this case.
                                                           -- D

[Martha]

Don I have attached photos of what the box looks like. I now believe there is something in that box that regulated the power. that green power board was probably it. The adjustable dial on the side is how to regulate the speed of the blinking. I used the word Rheostat maybe that was the incorrect word?



this is side view of the box showing the the power info. I bought it used on ebay so it didn't come with a box or any other literature.



and yes everything worked fine and dandy until I messed with it. It took 3 normal AA batteries.

I am just frustrated because I don't understand power, current, volts, amps ohms law, etc, etc and each and every time I wire stuff together I burn it up and it is useless. I guess I need to break down and buy a volt meter and ohms meter. Are there any out there that you or others recommend? Once I have it I can watch how to videos to know how to use the darn thing. Possible this will save me from wrecking more stuff I really liked.


I was looking at this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Ammeter-Multimeter-OHM-Voltage-Current-Tester-XL-830L-/291110298613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c786a3f5

I just remembered I want to go shop for a helping hand apparatus. any recommendations on that? With a magnifier? with a light? Will something like this be sufficient?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-Soldering-Iron-Stand-Helping-Hand-Clamp-Clip-2-5X-Magnifying-Glass-EM-01-/311057271518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item486c754ade

As I always say later gator.

[jbrock27]

The helping hands device looks similar to the one I purchased from AMAZON.  It looks good to me and a good price.

The meter: looks okay to me.  Just read the negative reviews first on that seller (I see both of these sellers have a lot and do a LARGE volume of sales).  Makes sure there are not several reviews that slam the meter.  Myself, I like to look for such meters from places like HOME DEPOT, LOWES or SEARS.  You might find a better one from one of those stores, w/o the risk of being stuck w/a bum one from an Ebay seller.  I do not like the Harbor Freight meters, in case anyone asks...

[Doneldon]

Martha-

My response under the general category applies here as well.

The VOM Meter you reference should work just fine for you. As did Jim, I'm a little concerned about the sellers' negative feedback level. Yes, he's a high-volume seller, but 75 negatives and 79 neutrals in a month is HUGE. That means a store open seven days a week is sending home five unhappy customers a day. Such a store would be out of business in no time. He can exist on eBay because the number of potential customers I almost limitless. Now many of the complaints were about shipping charges, which shouldn't be a problem with your listing as it is free shipping, but there are also negatives about items which don't work from new and which he didn't correct. I'd try to find something similar from a better seller.

Many folks on this board swear by the VOM Meters sold by Harbor Freight. They are rather modest tools but they do the job. They often have one for free with a coupon or for just a few dollars.

Good luck!
                    -- D

[jbrock27]

Doc, I thought the last time the subject of HF meters came up, you were in agreement with me to avoid them, given negative reviews by customers on those   ; mentioning something to RichG along the lines of, he may have been fortunate to have gotten ones that worked...

[Martha]

Well I am taking a chance on buying the meter on ebay, it isn't the ones I shared earlier, I found some video on youtube discussing how to choose the right one. Well it's like choosing the right vehicle! Way to many options, cost, user friendly or not, heck I don't even know have the words he was using to describe them the ONLY thing that got my attention is making sure there are 4 connections to it. Let me see if I can remember how he describe that. Separate connections for volts and amps. He said you forget and have it on amps and testing volts you could blow up what ever you were testing even blow off your hands. Well the later part of that statement got me. I actually like my hands so...... I found one that the connections(lead wires) for amps and volts were separate. I must confess I did not listen much farther on that Youtube tutorial once I noticed it was 59 minutes long! He mentioned some other figures and the one I got had those too. The only thing he insisted on YOU have is a auto reader. Probably a good thing but I am not to lazy to turn the dial to a setting. That's what I got out of that part, convenience. So we will wait and see. will be here tomorrow.

Now Don I asked this question on Jonathan's forum and realized I didn't give info that might help you to tell me the answer. The question was, I got the string of lights to work on the 4.5 v adapter. They actually will do the extra functions as well, blinking etc. How many extra things, strings of light or a mini spot light, or maybe a lighted deer can I hook up to the same adapter without problems? Here is the info that might help to get an answer. The adapter input 120V 60HZ 300mA output 4.5V 1000mA. I didn't mention either that this adapter once had 4 male jack connectors that worked with any of the battery/adapter type lights or gizmos for Christmas villages.  So if I am thinking correctly I should be able to hook up 4 whatevers?

Oh Saturday I will be joining the helping hands group! No more struggling to hold things to solder. Next investment will be a solder station but that is down the road. Someone gave me a 40 watt Radio Shack pencil soldering iron and it works okay. Better than the crappy one I had.

Later gator

[Doneldon]

Martha-

If your output is 1000mA you can go crazy connecting things. LEDs pull about 20mA so you could, for example, connect up to 50, 20mA lights to it. It's not a particularly good practice to run a circuit at its limit but you certainly wouldn't want to exceed the limit.

One problem might be that everything will flash, including things that you don't want to flash like interior lights in structures. However, you should be able to run all of the flashing lights from one adaptor and non-flashing lights from another.

                                                                          

Jim-

I mentioned the Harbor Freight VOM meters because they are available and very inexpensive. I wouldn't rely on one in long-term service myself, but they should be OK for someone who is new and needing to spend quite a bit of money on expanding her railroad right now. If she finds one of the freebie coupons she'll have something which should work for her for a while until she gets some other expenses out of the way.

It's good that you asked for the clarification. My earlier post wasn't clear on this point.
                                                                                                                               -- Doneldon

[jbrock27]

I would just hate to see $$ go down the drain for one, when the $$ could have been put toward a better, longer lasting one.

Marty, good call on the Helping Hands.  I am sure you will like using it.  Any further progress on a new soldering implement?

[Martha]

Hello all, Happy Post Columbus Day! Apparently my helping hands and multimeter just arrived on Plymouth Rock, not sure if it was the Mayflower, Santa Maria or Pinto that brought it ALL the way from Los Angles to Reno but it is showing they should be delivered today! Now normally I expect delivery to take a while however, these items were shipped early last week from LA. I could have driven to LA and back sooner than these packages are coming. So I can't tell you how I like the helping hands nor the multimeter. I have trekked on with Jamestown, always something to do on it. Rearranged the buildings and that meant moving the 2 strands of Xmas LED lights I use to light the inside of them. I just poke holes in the foam and bring two lights each for each building up from below. Simple enough to do however it's back breaking work. Bent over for a few hours well, not a spring chicken any longer! I have rewired trees and other lighting.

I have not progressed at all on the street light project. I know I will need that helping hand for that tedious soldering work and the meter! I experimented with metal beer bottle caps and wooden bowls for the lampshades. Easy choice once I shorted out one of the LED's on the bottle cap..... wooden bowls it it!  Yes I could still use the bottle caps just needing to use more caution, but not worth the extra time and effort.

LED lights - I was experimenting with I think it was 22 gauge rubber coated black/red wire but it was too thick to work with. So off to RS for some magnet wire. Three pack, 26, 28, 30 gauge. Very nice stuff but didn't notice it said in fine print, scrape off coating before soldering. NO biggie just an extra step to do. I first started out with 30 gauge, a 5 mm LED and a 150 resister. I am using a 4.5 volt adapter. It was very dim.  I then went up to the 26 gauge 5 mm Led (I am using 5 mm for the brightness I want) no resister and yes I have a burn mark from it. Holy cow it got hot. I was also at the time experimenting with the bottle cap and well...... I just stopped the whole thing. Until I get my meter today I can't tell what resistance I need or have or even ask more questions or have answers to give until I have that meter to use.

Someone gave me a RS soldering pencil, 40 watt and you can replace the tip. It works much better than the one I had. I will eventually get a work station just not now.

This post is more of what I have been up to not a help me!!!! post. I will be back with more questions and answer segment once the Conestoga wagon delivers today.     

Later gator

[Doneldon]

LED lights - I was experimenting with I think it was 22 gauge rubber coated black/red wire but it was too thick to work with. So off to RS for some magnet wire. Three pack, 26, 28, 30 gauge. Very nice stuff but didn't notice it said in fine print, scrape off coating before soldering. NO biggie just an extra step to do. I first started out with 30 gauge, a 5 mm LED and a 150 resister. I am using a 4.5 volt adapter. It was very dim. 

Martha-

The insulation on magnet wire is similar to varnish. It scrapes off easily which means it can short if the coating is scraped off during assembly or use.

You shouldn't need a resistor for an LED with a 4.5 volt power supply.
                                                                                                         -- D

[Martha]

D- Conestoga Wagon delivered FINALLY today . So naturally I have questions.

Multimeter, has me a little bit afraid of it, keep reading Warning you could get seriously hurt using it.  From what I briefly have read in manual and on line most of the bad stuff is to do with the AC which I am not interested in. It is going to be dc volts, resistance and maybe ohms. Right that I will most likely be using? Instruction manual vague on using it. 



Here is the front of it. upside down horseshoe is OHM's right? That's the only one I think I know! 

symbol V with dash and dot dot under it is???

symbol V with squiggly line is ?

hFE??

Would I need to know what F stands for?

Symbol A squiggly line is?

Symbol A dash with dot dot is?

Music symbol arrow thing is?

do I need to know what the PNP NPN top right is for? (transistors?)

Is there any good how to youtube videos out there that explains this stuff in layman's terms?

The only part I think I get is the red wire goes to the V ohms arrow connection and the black goes to COM connection.  not sure what the 20A or mA is for but I had previously read getting a multimeter with the mA separate from the V ohms connection was a good idea. Once I know what all these symbols stand for I might be able to figure out how to test for the Ohms law. Of course not even sure if I need to know about the Ohm's law is.

I feel rather foolish asking these questions but I have come to rely on you all to help me out.

One more question for the night. Why would the 5 mm LED get so darn hot? Is it the magnet wire is too light weight to care the power? D said I won't need a resister for the LED with the 4.5 v adapter. I am hooking up 10 to 12 5 mm LED's to that adapter Still don't need a resister?

Thanks, going to play with the helping hands, at least I can figure that one out! OH I also got my multicolored 3 mm lights so I can make a few more strands of lights. that will require a lot of soldering, good practice for me and now that I have a couple extras hands I sure be pooping in tall cotton as my 85 year old friend says! where she gets these phrases? I love them.

later gator