Help Need HO Scale Steam Locomotive that steams and whistles

[jbrock27]

The screws do not come out completely don't ya know. 

Yes correct, they are not meant to.  To try to turn them out all the way out can lead to permanent damage and not being able to get them back in.  This I have seen.
I agree, whoever recommended shrink tubing, is definitely a genius
Yes, Dollar Tree is around here.  Thanks for the decorating tips.
Keep having fun!!

[Martha]

Back with some update photos. In my last post I said I was resurfacing the platform and I did and it came out really good. Then I adhered the track down. The latest is adding the ambient running lights around the track. I had to redo them due to this new track. I put out the Ice Mountain and the Tower Mountain, and set the tunnel in place. I also "ballast" the track, I used my ballast creation it is a one of a kind. I tried the gravel, sand etc mix I had made originally but didn't like the effect and to be honest I would have been still doing it after Christmas. So I just mixed up the sand/gravel mix with the popcorn compound, some acrylic flat white paint and water. It matches the platform surface. I couldn't decide what to do on the inside rail ties so I dabbed it with white paint. I do need to give the track a good cleaning as I can see there is some paint on the rails. I do like how it turned out. Will take some daytime photo and post them another day.





Thanks for your assistance!

Now I need advice/help on this new development. I do believe it's called not taking care of your soldering iron! the tip is screwed up, it does not get hot, I have to melt the solder on the side of it to get anything out of it. As you can see it does come off and I thought maybe it just needs filing? I don't have any way of grinding it. Should I just buy a new tip? If I do is there different size tips or are they standard size?  I have lots of soldering ahead, now that it isn't so scarey, I ordered more of these quick disconnect plugs and some small gauge wire to go with them. Each light set, or string of lights I am using them so when it's time to dismantle every thing I just unsnap and put them away. The LED Christmas strand lights that light each house is normal UL Plug and they are plugged into my power bar. The tiny lights are all hooked to an adapter I think 3 volt and the adapter gets plugged into the power bar as well. Eventually once every thing is hooked/wired up, one flip of the power bar switch and Jamestown is lite up.  I would like to run each of these quick disconnects to some kind of power strip that all lead to the adapter but I don't know if that is feasible or not.





Connectors I am using.

[jbrock27]

Layout and track look good.

Personally, I think you would be better off investing in a Weller Soldering pencil or station.  Especially if you will be soldering often.  But, using the name of the brand of your pencil, you could look up and see if replacement trips are even made for it.  I cannot tell from your pics of it, but is there a little screw to hold the tip or does the tip unscrew from the pencil?  Can you tell M?

[Martha]

yes there is a short screw that holds it in. I know this one wasn't very expensive. Will check around for the other brands. Thanks!

[Doneldon]

Martha-

Your soldering iron looks to me like one which cannot be replaced. However, you may be able to rehab it. Here's what to do: Heat up your iron and then wipe the tip firmly on a wet sponge or piece of course cloth. That should remove the majority of the insulating slag and old solder. If the tip cleans up nice from this, put a little flux on it and then a small amount of solder -- just so it gets shiny. If there is still crud on the tip after wiping it on the wet surface, you can try using some sand paper or a fine file to clean what remains. Sand or file the tip as little as possible but do get to clean metal. This isn't ordinarily a good procedure but it is justifiable here because your iron isn't serviceable as is and the usual cleaning procedure didn't do the trick. If you are able to clean the tip this way, go ahead and flux and tin it. If the iron is still bad, take it to s hardware store where they can tell you for sure if the tip is replaceable and sell you one if it is.

Jim's suggestion of a new soldering pencil is a good one if you are unable to clean up or replace the tip of your existing iron. Tin it as before you use it the first time. You will no doubt find some cheapies on the market but this is a tool which should be reliable quality. I bought an excellent Weller gun more than 40 years ago and it still works like new. I also have my Dad's old iron from when he built our house in the early 1950s and it is still good, too. (I'm a little about the insulation on such an old tool so I will change the cord before the next time I use it.)

If all of your accessories operate on the same voltage (don't assume here, check!), you an use a barrier strip or terminal to connect everything as long as your load doesn't exceed the ampacity of your low-voltage power supply. If you have different voltage needs, use a different power supply for each. If your power supply is inadequate, split the accessories between two (or more if needed) power supplies, using a barrier strip for each. Depending on whether you have a wall-wart power supply (the transformer itself plugs into the wall) or a power brick (there is a house current cord from the wall to the transformer and either a low-voltage wire from the transformer or low voltage terminal on the transformer) you can plug into the same power strip you are using for the train. It's possible to install quick disconnect plugs and receptacles between the wall wart or power brick if you want to avoid having heavy pieces dangling by thin wires, a recipe for damage. There are various styles and colors of crimp-on terminals so you can easily make the annual connections without having to trace what goes where. There is a special tool for the cramp-ons. It isn't very expensive, it does a great job and it also cuts wire and removes insulation cleanly so it's a good tool to have around the house. They are often packaged with a selection of cramp on pieces at an attractive price. You'll probably get all of the cramp-ons you need for this project and still have several left over.

The barrier strips are designed to easily attach one wire to another. However, you can use them for multiple connections if you run a wire from screw terminal to screw terminal on one side, making every screw connected to just one (the power supply). Alternatively, you can use wire to connect just as many terminal screws as you need for one power supply and others for a second or third power source. It all depends on how many power supplies and uses you have. Here's what these look like though you can find them cheaper:

    http://www.mcmelectronics.com/browse/Barrier-Terminal-Strips/0000000678

You can also use the kind of connectors you show in your photo although they can be expensive if you are using a bunch. You can label your wires (this is a good idea in any case) with a piece of masking, adhesive or frosty cellophane tape. Just make sure you go all of the way around and double the "tag" where you write the wires' identities. That will keep them from drying up and falling off before next year's display.

It does look like you're making more good progress. I assume you have worked all of the bugs out of your track and that is very important.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    -- D

[jbrock27]

M, as you can see, the opinion of the quality of a Weller soldering iron is high.  I think it is hard to go wrong getting one.  That said, if you are going to search for a new one, I have seen some on the internet that look good. Pay attention to any reviews on them.  Trying searching "recommended soldering station " or "iron" in GOOGLE (of course right? .)
I have tried Doc's suggestion of filing/sanding a tip in the past and have not been happy with the results.  Temporaty solution at best.  Can you tell if materiel is missing from the end of the tip?  This is common on lesser expensive tips.  Never had to do that w/a Weller tip.

[Martha]

I looked up Weller irons, the soldering iron I have is a pencil type and I like the feel of it. The Weller's seem to be more like a gun, with trigger. Are they heavy? They look to be awkward to hold and use for someone with small hands? I also noticed while searching, there are different watts, what wattage would be what I would need? All the wires I use are 22 awg up to maybe 16.

This morning I told myself, where did you put that spare tip that came with my iron? and hey I found it! Until I decide what to do with either a new iron or this one, I will use this one HOWEVER I will properly prepare the tip and take better care of it. I just didn't know any better the first go around.



As for the wiring, I wish there was a place here in Reno who could give me some expert advice regarding the wiring I am trying to produce. Yes there is a Radio Shack here, but the inexperienced help is no help whats so ever. There is an electronic store and I went there and they were quite rude. Charged me $5.00 cutting fee of wire I wanted (I didn't know Ace cuts if for free). I asked about what I was trying to achieve and the guy well lets say he was more worried someone was going to steal his stool behind the counter he was sitting at,  as he kept gravitating to it.

D I get the terminal blocks, that is what I thought of but how do I supply power to it? run the adapter hot and ground to each side of the terminal? and the UL plug goes to the wall power. What the heck is a wall wart? I thought you were saying Walmart at first!  .



Here is a picture of the power setup I use. The AC/DC adapter obviously gets plugged into house current. there are four leads off of that adapter. All had the pin plug to plug into the white boxes that were attached to what ever they powered. Like a strand of lights for instance. I have wired up the quick disconnect plugs to those leads to supply power over to Ice Mountain and the stings of lights on it. Also one goes to Tower Mountain to power the trees lights and spot lights. I like the quick disconnect method as Ice mountain and Tower mountain are removed and stored separately. To hook them up next time just snap the two connections together. Where I am not sure of is, if I snip the wire off before the 4 leads and hook it up to hot/ground on a terminal block and then run from there the hot/ground for each of the quick connectors? Gosh am I explaining that okay? I also don't know how many items can I run off that adapter? obviously 4 items but how many more? I don't have an omh meter and wouldn't know how to use one any how. I just know from experience if I don't run the lights through that adapter I will fry them.

Terminal connectors I have, I need smaller ones as the wire I am using is 22 awg and crimping them to ones to big for the wire stinks! Luckily I am now schooled in soldering the joints and shrink wrapping them so most connections are done that way. The only place right now I need terminals is to the power supply for the train. If I go to a terminal block/strip I will invest in the correct size.

The track night mare is solved. Little Prairie just zips around that track like no tomorrow. FINALLY success where that is concerned. Little by little Jamestown is coming along.

[jbrock27]

Not so that Weller just makes the gun style.  Weller makes a variety of soldering irons, guns and stations, for a variety of uses and applications.
40W is my recommendation for the widest variety of uses.  I would also recommend a station over just the pencil, but they do make a very affordable, good, 40W pencil.
So, is the bunged up tip, missing material from it? If so, since you have found the spare, I would toss it and not waste any more time with it.
A wall wart is a weird term for something you plug into an AC (110 Volt) outlet (like in your home) to charge up a cell phone, kids toy, Kindle, power tools that have batteries, a myriad of elelctronic run devices around the home.  You have to check the black block where it plugs in to see what the output is, to determine if it is useable on the layout.  Then you snip the end of the wire off where it plugs into whatever, so you can strip the 2 wires to hook into what you want.  You can connect the ends to the barrier/terminal strip to provide power to the strip, then connect your wires that you want to power things, like lights for example, to the strip.  Often, you will need to make "jumpers" to bring power to the other screws on the barrier/terminal or otherwise have a lot of wires bringing power to it, which you don't want.
That has been a long standing problem with Radio Shack.  Sorry you got charged to have someone cut you some wire.  Never heard of a place like that.

[Irbricksceo]

Yeah, Radio shack isn't the den of Electrical Knowledge it once was (before my time). I'm 18, and every time I head into a radio shack I fell like I blow their minds by heading past the consumer electronics displays to their dwindling supply of components.

[jbrock27]

I know, right?
Sometimes among those draws there are good deals on clearance items, but those finds are getting less and less.
Brick, have you noticed too that anytime you go in there, there is never the same staff as the time before??

[ebtnut]

If you've read the financial press recently, you will see that Radio Shack is deemed to be on th brink of bankruptcy.  Frankly, if there are any components you think you might need, consider stocking up. 

[jbrock27]

I have been aware of that eb and have been doing so where and when able.  Thanks.

[Irbricksceo]

I was not, in fact, aware of that! Given that come next summer, depending on my Financial Situation (College has that unsure as of current) I am planning on performing the next step in getting my layout in a "Finished" (If you can ever use that term with model Rail) State, I might need to check again as they do, on rare occasion, have some harder to find components. It's a shame that they no longer have the walls of part but, in all honesty, I can't blame them. It isn't as profitable as it once was and, no matter our feelings, They are a business. Many markets, Electronics and Model trains Included, are becoming the domain of Internet shopping. I find that for bigger purchases I'm more likely to go to a store but for the small bits? Online tends to be cheaper. Case in point, I recently Built a new computer (6-7 months ago) I got those parts at a Brick and Mortar Store as their customer service and experience was valuable. But when I need a cable, or a flash drive? Internet it is.

Martha, it is looking amazing. I cannot speak on Weller irons as I have gotten away with my fathers 20 dollar Radioshack soldering iron this far but these folks tend to be knowledgable. That said, with spare tip in hand, good care of the iron you posses will do wonders. That said, let me just add this in case it has not yet been mentioned. When soldering, keep a metal object nearby (assuming you don't have an actual Stand with such a feature built in) When you aren't Actively using the iron, rest the tip against said object (I use a hammer) This will help prolong your iron's life.

I remember your layout last year and can't wait to see it this year, it is looking splendid. Sometimes, there is something uniquely charming about a little loop and some nice scenery!

[Jhanecker2]

To Martha :   Checkout  Micro-Marks website  for a host of products for modelers .  I would also recommend  get a HO  reference catalog from Walthers . They are the largest distributors  of model railroad equipment in our hobby .   I would also suggest getting some of the fine books from Kalmbach Publishing addressing various  aspects of our hobby . These are listed in the  Walthers  reference catalog though most LHS  also stock them for sale . No one starting any endeavor  knew everything .  Good Luck  Jojhn2.

[jbrock27]

Brick, I had a 30 or 40 Watt Radio Shack soldering iron that kept doing the same thing that Martha's is at the tip.  That is when I replaced it with the Weller WLC100.  No regrets.
I agree with JH2s suggestion about knowing at the very least, about the existence of MircoMark.  I have ordered some items from there for a reasonable price and reasonable shipping.