Spectrum HO Baldwin 2-8-0 Consolidation Headlight

[jimmlat]

I have a Spectrum HO Baldwin 2-8-0. I noticed that the headlight stopped working. It's not an engine that run everyday only once in a while, so I doubt it would be "burned"out.  Does anyone have any suggestions on how to check the light, or what to look for first before taking the engine apart and replacing the headlamp? Maybe there is something to clean first like the contact points on the plug? Ant advice would be appreciated.

[jonathan]

The first two releases of Spectrum Connies came with incandescant bulbs for headlights.  They were very hard to see (dim), as the light has to pass through a plastic "light pipe".  It is possible for those to burn out.  The bulb on all versions sits between the split frame halves, so some disassembly is required to get at them. It is possible for the wires be pinched and cut off inside the frames, though I've never heard of that happening.

A more common ailment is the plug wire to come loose from the plug.  It is also imperative for the plugs to be seated completely in their sockets to ensure good contact.

I always replace the bulb/LED and move it inside the headlight can.  This also affords the opportunity to reposition the wiring and make sure nothing is coming in contact with the split frame halves.

I'm afraid the only way to completely check the bulb and wires is to disassemble the locomotive.

A more remote possibility is a loose wire in the tender.  That is easier to check... one screw and the tender shell lifts off.  This is where all the electronics are held.

Regards,

Jonathan

[jimmlat]

Johnathan,
Do you know what size bulb is in these 2-8-0's? for example how many volts?
Thanks

[jonathan]

The early Connies used a standard Grain of Wheat-type bulb, like the 12-16 volt kind that were once very common in modeling.  No resistors were required for their operation.

The newer Connies use an LED which I THINK handle somewhere around 2.2 volts and require a resistor. Typical Bachmanns use a 1K to 2K ohm resistor, though I've found I can get away with a resistor as small as 560 ohms.  A 330 ohm resistor seems to "pop" the LED over 9 volts of current.  That I've learned from simple tinkering.  I know there are formulas that help, but I like to play with these items to see it for myself.

I have settled for using the LEDs as they produce no heat and won't damage plastic parts like headlight cans and plastic lenses.  Though, I really prefer the light produced be a standard bulb.  The warm-white and yellow-white LEDs produce a decent color of light.

Also, LED are polarity sensitive.  The positive lead must connect to the right rail pick up to produce light going forwards, if you get my meaning.

Regards,

Jonathan