1970s style ho scale layout

[Doneldon]

Everybody-

I notice that we've had nothing new from the OP for a while. I wonder if we've lost him.

                                                                                                                        -- D

[jbrock27]

Whether it's DC or DCC, if the equipment does not run properly, there is no FUN

Doc, perhaps the OP is just reading and taking it all in.

[Desertdweller]

If you are going to build a DCC-operated railroad, don't expect to save much effort on wiring over a DC layout.  DCC is more sensitive to continuity than even a DC layout.  Voltage drop is a main consideration also.  Model railroad rail is not a very efficient conductor compared to wire.

So you are going to wind up needing buss wires paralleling both rails under the layout, with feeder wires off the busses every three feet or so.  You will obviously need a DCC-type power pack, plus decoders for each loco.  Compare this to the cost of control equipment for DC: DPDT switches for each track block.  These can either be purchased individually from a place like Radio Shack, or in a handy little control panel from Atlas for $8/for 4 switches.  These panels can be ganged to provide as many DPDT switches as needed.

You will still probably want some isolated track blocks anyway, for programming locos and providing parking places that do not have current running through them.

When DCC was introduced thirty-some years ago, it was greatly oversold on the idea that an entire model railroad could be wired "by attaching two wires to the rails".  In real life, to overcome continuity and voltage drop problems, you are going to need probably as many feeder lines as a DC railroad.

Can't you wire a DCC layout with two wires?  Sure, if you are willing to accept the limitations this requires.  The same can be said for a DC layout.

DCC requires a constant 18 volts or so on the rails at all times.  On DC, if you are not moving a loco, the track receives no power.  This, to me, is a safety advantage to DC.  DCC requires decoders that must be programmed, and the power pack and decoders are involved in a circuit that cannot be checked by eye.  Yet this is held to be more user-friendly than DC, apparently because of the simple logic involved in wiring a reverse loop.

If you are going to build a 70's model railroad with 70's era model locomotives, I can see no advantage of going with DCC.  Most 70's HO locomotives were pretty crappy (except for Athearn and Atlas), and probably are not worth upgrading to DCC.  You will wind up putting a lot of money into marginal locomotives, and they are not going to run any better for it.  If you do go with DCC, I suggest you buy modern model locomotives (with DCC decoders installed) that are models of 1970's locomotives.

Either way, prepare to spend a lot of time "down under" getting power to your tracks.  You might even find that part enjoyable.  I do.

Les

[wiley209]

My previous railroad layout had somewhat of a 1970s theme to it, mostly with rolling stock, accessories and buildings:

As I am interested in vintage HO train products, that was a given. Except the only 1970s locomotive I used on this layout was that Tyco diesel switcher, the older version that used Mantua's little (and effective) motor instead of the crummy "PowerTorque" pancake motor. (Though I may get a Tyco "Chattanooga" or Santa Fe 2-8-0 Consolidation steam locomotive, mainly for collecting purposes; it's nicely detailed, but it has a "PowerTorque" motor that was placed in the tender car.)
If the OP reads this, if you're going to do a 1970s layout and you have brass track, I DO NOT recommend using it. Most model railroad manufacturers in the 1970s just used brass track (including Bachmann), and while it can be a good electrical conductor, it oxides rather quickly and often requires a lot of maintenance. Steel is a little better, but still not as good a conductor as nickel-silver (I know AHM and Tyco both offered steel track in the late 1970s; Bachmann didn't start making steel track until around 1982 or 1983.)
If you want traditional tie-and-rails sectional track for this "70s" layout, I recommend getting new Atlas Code-100 nickel-silver track. Even older locomotives will perform better on it! Otherwise (particularly if you aren't going to be using any of those old "action" accessories that require conventional track) go with Bachmann's nickel-silver E-Z track.

[RAM]

You would be better off getting a Bachmann 2-8-0 instead of the Tyco.  That is if you plan to run it. 









 

[jbrock27]

Wiley, I agree with your recommendation of nickel silver track, but not that steel is better than brass.  Also, brass is the best conductor of the 3 metals but needs more maintenance than the n/s as you pointed out.

I'll add this for anyone who looks to buy track off a place like EBay.  Watch out for the clowns who list what is really steel track, as nickel silver.  It amazes me, how many I find that do, yet I never find any seller who lists nickel silver track as steel.  Gee, I wonder why

[wiley209]

You would be better off getting a Bachmann 2-8-0 instead of the Tyco.  That is if you plan to run it. 

For running on my layout, I do plan on getting a Bachmann Consolidation. I know Bachmann made a nice Santa Fe 2-8-0 Consolidation locomotive in the "Bachmann Plus" line in the '90s. (Or maybe once I get more cash I'll get the Spectrum version instead!)

And jbrock27, when looking for track on eBay I always look closely at the pics to see if it really IS nickel-silver. Usually I would tell by the color of the rails:
Gold, copper or rust-colored: Usually brass
Completely silver: Steel
Pale-gold and shiny: Nickel-silver

At least with Bachmann's E-Z Track it's easy to tell the nickel-silver sections from steel!

Though if you're simply replacing the track from an old train set (doesn't matter if it's Bachmann or Tyco or whatever) and you want to still use snap-track, then just get this:

If the set came with just a circle or a 45x36 oval of track, this is a decent upgrade; you get a nice 54x36" oval with passing siding, except the switches are manual (you can upgrade them to remote switch machines though.)
It connects using terminal joiners; just hook them up to your set's power pack (if it still works, or a new and better power pack), put the locomotive and cars on the track, and you're ready to go!

[jbrock27]

"This" somehow did not come through.  Would like to see what you meant to show though.

I understand what you are saying about looking at pics on EBay, but oh, if only it were that easy.  Sometimes the pics are too far away, the resolution on the camera stinks, the flash on a camera changes the look on the coloring of what is being taken in the picture, etc, etc.  I am glad you are wary and know what to look for.  I was just putting a word to the wise out there as there are many cretins on EBay who sell track.  For me, when in doubt, the magnet test is the best and cooperation or lack thereof helps me weed out the rotten eggs (Sellers).  Unlike Pops, I am not worried about being blocked on EBay; plenty o' fish in the sea as they say