Electrical wiring

[rookie123]

Is it acceptable to use unsheathed wiring for a 12v DC bus for all my many lights? That away I could just tack the light wires to the buss wires with minimal work. The bus would be under a piece of 1/4" plywood and not exposed.

Thanks,
Rookie

[jward]

yes, you can do it that way, but make sure to keep the conductors separated so they don't touch and cause a short circuit. it is much safer to have at least one conductor insulated.

[rogertra]

Or use insulated wire and "insulation displacement connectors."

What modellers sadly and incorrectly call "suitcase connectors."

Cheers

Roger.

[Desertdweller]

If I were you, I would not use any uninsulated wiring on the model railroad.  I think it is a poor practice, and a potential safety hazard.  A bus wire arrangement to power lamps, especially incandescent lamps, is going to draw a lot of current.

You could run a two-conductor insulated wire pair around the layout as a bus.  Wires connecting this pair to your lamps could be attached with "insulation displacment connectors"(suitcase connectors, brandname Scotchlocks).  I use common-rail wiring on my DC model railroad and connect my common rail side of the circuit to a bus wire using them at several locations.

These things are quick and simple to use, but they do have their drawbacks.  You have to be sure you get the correct size for the wire you are using, they are rather expensive, they are bulky, and it is possible to install them incorrectly and spoil them.  You would need a lot of them to do what you are describing.  What may be worse, once you have done this, all your lamps will be hard-wired to your bus.  Any changes (like replacing a burned out bulb, or moving a lamp location) will involve cutting a wire, wasting a connector.

I think a better solution would be to run your lighting busses to a distribution terminal consisting of a barrier strip like those sold at Radio Shack.  Then all your lamps can be wired individually to this strip, the wires held to the terminals by screws.  Then, if you have to change a bulb or location, all you have to do is loosen the screws to the lamp leads.

My previous model railroad had full layout lighting.  I did not include it on my present one because it was such a maintenance nightmare.  Also, incandescent lamps draw a lot of current when you have a lot of them, requiring a dedicated power pack just to supply them.  Also, believe it or not, they heat up the room: both the heat off the bulbs and the heat off a hard working power pack.

My present railroad models a passenger terminal that saw almost all activity during daylight hours.  Problem solved!

Les

[electrical whiz kid]

From the stand-point of being a 45-year veteran of the electrical trade, I am puzzled as to why, with the exception of doing catenary work, you would want to use uninsulated wiring for busses, or any other general current-carrying application.  At practically any voltage, AC or DC, bare wiring in any kind of construction  runs a very significant risk of a fire, injury, or at the very least, ruining electrical components.  I urge you to use insulated conductors-I have used #12 THHN stranded for years as busses; your choice.
RIch C.

[Doneldon]

rookie-

Most folks on this board believe like I do in terms of respecting everyone's right to make decisions for his/her layout but I'll break my own rule here: Don't do it! It's not worth the risk.

Here's why I'm not cool with running bare wires for lighting busses, track busses or any other purpose. While you don't need to worry about electrocuting anyone, bare wires always have the potential for a short circuit and, more important, a fire. Once a fire starts under the bare lumber of your layout it can easily spread to threaten other nearby flammables and even your whole house.

This is not to say that you have to do the most difficult things to wire your layout. Suitcase connectors work very well if you get the right size and don't mind the cost. You can also run a buss to which you connect terminal strips. Or you can roll your own if you use screws and washers. Attach your actual feeders to the screw posts by crimping on a U-shaped or circular terminal connector. Because your feeders are likely to be a bit longer this way, use at least 20 ga wire, not anything finer. You can also use insulated but not sheathed wire for your busses. Keep the two wires a couple of inches apart. Connect your feeders to them by scraping a short bit of insulation off, solder the feeder to the buss and then paint liquid electrical tape on the connection. If you later need to replace a bulb (highly unlikely if you use correctly installed LEDs) you can cut the feeders and splice the new bulb or whatever to them. You can use solder or crimp connectors for that.
                                                                                                                                                                                -- D

[Jhanecker2]

Having been a Q.C. inspector doing electrical testing  for  more than 20 years , I must agree with Doneldon  and electrical  whiz kid  that bare wire are dangerous and should never be used .   Wires heat up under use and could over time char your wood and  scenic materials . Terminal strips are a much safer & better and allow for changes that may become necessary over time .  The electrical codes in your area also come into play , and insurance companies do not have a sense of humor  about  "accidental fires " .   Real heavy  duty buss bars   are shielded  in metallic  raceways   to shield   them  from  their environment and personnel , John2

[peter c]

  if your into diy there,s directions for building a low voltage lighting   circuit on  spookshows homepage. i,am sure there,s other plans out there.

[richg]

  If your into DIY there's directions for building a low voltage lighting  circuit on  spookshows homepage. I am sure there's other plans out there.

I will jump in. Everyone, store the link in Favourites. He has some good info.

http://www.spookshow.net/trainstuff.html

Rich

[jbrock27]

Pete, I found and read the directions on the site-pretty cool stuff!

[richg]

While the OP might know what to do safely other newbies might not.
Potentially dangerous.

Some here might remember I posted a link from another forum about repairing a Bachmann power pack. Someone here asked about what is inside. The Bach-Man removed it. Good thing.

There are people who "thought" they knew what they were doing and got in trouble.
How many times over the years have you heard someone say, Oh, that does not look very hard!!

Rich

[jbrock27]

I would question someone, who would take the time and/or resources as part of an effort to revive a B-mann power pack.

[richg]

I would question someone, who would take the time and/or resources as part of an effort to revive a B-mann power pack.

Some have the electrical experience and like the challenge. Even striping out the transformer to power stuff on the layout. Many have the experience to do this.
I have been working with electrical/electronics since 1953 and would not hesitate. Done similar repairs over the years.
Started out with high voltage way before transistor circuits. US Navy training, NASA contractor.
those who have never done this will never understand.
Same thing with rebuilding a car. Yes, some will question your sanity.

Rich

[jbrock27]

I think it is terrific that you have the impressive background and extensive experience to do that, but was that why you brought the subject up? Because before you did, I did not see anybody here mention or ask, about taking a power pack apart.  The original question and subsequent answers have revolved around setting up wiring for lights on the layout.