Smallest radius for a large locomotive.

[Rollin Mayham]

How small of a radius can the Daylight 4449 work properly?

[the Bach-man]

Dear RM,
They were designed for 18" radius, but will look and operate better on 22" radius.
Have fun!
the Bach-man

[Irbricksceo]

As stated, it will likely run on 18inch but 22 is preferred, you will also notice certain side effects of low radius, at least if it is similar to my 2-8-4 (which i run occasionally but not most often because it looks odd), namely,  the locomotive will slow down when it enters the curve and derail if it enters at crawling speed, this is because the drivers need to acclimate to the sharp turns and as such tend to rub against the side of the rails.

[Doneldon]

RM-

I'd avoid 18" radius for this loco. It should be OK on 22" but I urge you to go no tighter than
24" This is a BIG loco and it will look weird and operate only fair on sharp curves.
                                                                                                                           -- D

[Rollin Mayham]

Thank you I will just wait then because I am running a small branch with only 18"

[electrical whiz kid]

My personal thoughts on this, which have been contrived by many a regrettable experience, are these:
If you are going to have tight radii, perhaps smaller locomotives might be more suitable.  I have seen some otherwise really nice layouts that have looked rather detractive with, for instance, a 4-8-8-4 on really tight curves, etc etc.  Even on narrow gauge layouts, wide curves will enhance a k-27 0r k-28, rather than tight curves. 
I know, if small areas are all you have been blessed with, then it really restricts you in a lot of ways; but to me, putting long rigid-base engines like 2-10-2 Santa Fes on a 21-inch radius is simply not going to look good, possible running equally as well...  I work with 30-36" radius curves and even so, am putting the emphasis on smaller engines, like Bachmann's 2-6-0, or 2-8-0.  To me, running a 2-6-6-2, which I have, is really pushing it.  It is a sad realization, but in the long run, will pay off.
Even long trains can give you grief untold, by derailing because of the tendency to pull in the straightest line, from the end of one radius to the other end of the same one; imperfect track-work exacerbating the problem.  I think you know what I mean here. 
Rich C.

[ebtnut]

I might also point out that the prototype also had restrictions on both curves and weight depending on the character of the track.  As an example, the Pennsylvania RR's lone 6-4-4-6 was restricted only to running out on the flatlands of Ohio and Indiana because it was too long and rigid for the rest of the system.  The Wabash kept a pair of elderly 2-6-0's in service well into the 1950's when virtually the entire rest of the line had gone diesel because the rated axle loading for a large bridge was so light that even GP diesels were banned. 

Now, most all of Bachmann's steam locos will negotiate an 18" curve although some of them don't like it a lot.  Compromises need to be made for truck swing and mechanism "slop".  The B&O EM-1 has both the front and rear engines on pivots, unlike the prototype. 

[Irbricksceo]

To me, on 18 inch radii, there are 3 Bachmann Medium Steamers w/ tenders that look alright, The Chinese SY 2-8-2, the Russian Decapod 2-10-0, and the largest of them all (believe it or not), the 2-8-0. You can also run the 2-8-4 (which I own), and some of the 4-8-4's (not all). The 4-4-0's, 2-6-0, and the 0-6-0's if you want smaller steam. a good model that is hard to come by (I have been searching for a bit) is the 4-6-0 actually.

[electrical whiz kid]

If you are looking for a 4-6-0, then might you try looking on E-bay under "brass".   I know that brass has the rather notorious and well-founded reputation of being rather kantankerous when it comes to smooth running.   Brass wouldn't be my recommendation for a someone inexperienced in this hobby.  it is only a suggestion, but one worth  pursuing and if the stars are right, you may latch onto a good locomotive.