TRUCKS AND POWER SOURCE

[rabbibgr]

I purchased some new Bachmann, very inexpensive box cars, they have plastic wheels which seem to have excessive side to side motion. Some of them derail when going over a switch. I assume I should replace the trucks with better ones, but which ones and what size? the trucks are secured with a single screw. 

My eight switches are powered by a Bachmann non DCC transformer, I would like to add lighting and other electrical accessories, is that transformer powerful enough for the load. It does not operate any engines as that is done using the DCC transformer. If necessary, what should I replace the transformer with

[Doneldon]

rabb-

I'll try to answer your questions one at a time. First, however, a word about terminology. A transformer steps down your wall current to the low-voltage we use for our model trains. In some cases -- most notably three-rail O-gauge trains like Lionel -- that's all that's necessary. Most other trains, including HO, N and two-rail O use DC. Power packs (PP) have both AC and DC available because they either have a transformer on board, or a wall wart which steps down the current before it gets to the PP itself. But a PP also converts some of that low voltage AC to DC. (Yes, some wall warts do this, too.) That is why you can run non-DCC trains on the DC current from the PP and also run switch machines, lights and some animations from the fixed AC terminals found on the back of the PP near the variable DC terminals. Some PPs also have terminals for fixed DC but most don't. Since this is the HO section of Bachmann's board, I'm going to assume that you have a power pack, not merely a transformer.

The PP you are using for your turnouts is probably powerful enough for quite a few lights and animations as well. You do need to be sure that anything which requires DC gets DC and anything which uses AC gets AC. You can tell how much power you have by looking at the label on the PP which gives the output statistics. Just how many lights you can run or how many turnouts you can throw simultaneously will be determined by your PP's output. Keep in mind that you can also run lights, animations and turnouts from the fixed DC output, if you have them, or the variable DC output on your PP.

One thing you must be careful about is LED lighting. It uses much lower voltage than many of the lights and accessories we have with our trains. If you pump 12 or 14 volts into them you'll be treated to a display of just how bright LEDs can be, but only for an instant. I know some people who run LEDs from the variable DC outputs of their PPs, but they keep the controller carefully taped so it doesn't get changed and burn out the LEDs.

If you are looking at the back of your DCC system you may be wondering what I'm talking about. I'm unaware of a DCC system which has an output for anything other than the DCC itself. You won't find AC outputs, or outputs for either fixed or variable DC. Someone on here will correct me if there are DCC systems which have such outputs and that's fine. I'm merely commenting that I haven't seen them myself.

It's a good idea to change the wheelsets in your trucks but it isn't necessary to change the whole assembly. The wheels and axles pop out quite easily. You can purchase replacement wheelsets in bulk. Most freight cars, other than some of the newest prototypes, use 33" wheels. Passenger cars generally use 36" wheels. You do need to ensure that the wheels are correctly spaced (in gauge). Out-of-gauge wheels do cause derailments.

Good luck with your layout and welcome to model railroading. Please keep us up to date on your progress.
                                                                                                                                                              -- D

[jbrock27]

Rabbi, I would check your switches (turnouts) and not assume it is the cars' causing the problem.  Do all cars have trouble with all turnouts?  Only on some turnouts?

And these Bachmann cars have plastic wheels but their trucks secure with a screw, not a plastic pin?  Were you under the impression you were buying Silver Series cars?  Were these new in the box, or did someone before you do some work on them?

[electrical whiz kid]

HI;
I would like to add some info to your answers.  Buying bulk wheel-sets is a good idea if you are looking for running consistency-which most of us are; unless you are looking for grief untold-which you will probably get from running plastic wheel-sets.  To add, there is a little tool that you can pick up from "Micro-mark" that can ream out the trucks before install new wheel-sets.   Also, use a squeeze-bottle of dry graphite (not oil) in the reamed-out axle housings.  In my opinion, it would be better in most cases, to just remove the trucks, and install a good-quality truck like Kadee@ trucks.  They have a very compressive downloadable list of what you will need to do this.  A rule of thumb will be that you should use 33" wheels for most freight cars, and 36" wheels for most passenger cars.  Make sure [that] the trucks sit squarely on the car bolsters.  This time, research, and purchase would probably be one of the best investments you could do for your collection of rolling stock.  You can also pick up an NMRA gauge; again, one of the best investments, etc etc etc...

Rich C.

[jbrock27]

I always 2nd the suggestion to get a NMRA gauge.  In this instance, it would also be helpful to use it to check the turnouts.  And I agree, bulk buying wheelsets makes the most sense if the number of cars you have on hand that you want to convert is relative to the number of wheelsets you get buying in bulk.

Rich, with regard to the Truck Tuner and Kadee trucks-are not the Kadee trucks you speak of, made of metal?  If so, the Truck Tuner you also speak of, should not be used on metal trucks, only delrin or ABS plastic, as the tuner will get ruined on metal trucks.  

[richg]

Remember, Kadee wheels are not solid metal. The are sintered metal. Compressed powdered metal. They can attract dirt also. Rivet counters do not like them because of the black thread, not shiny.
My favourite ate Intermountain, machined. Same with our club.

Rich

[jward]

one thing that might also help is added weight. I've never had a problem with wheelsets having side to side play to the point it makes them derail. but cars that are too light will derail more often than properly weighted cars.

another thing that does affect tracking is the ability of the trucks to swivel. if they are too tight, and can't rock a little they will derail.

you may also want to carefully observe your cars to see just where they climb the rail. this may or may not be the same place they derail, but if the problem is in your trackwork this will be where the problem is. you should find this spot, and checque the track guage, look for any kinks in the track or misaligned rail joints, and use a level to make sure the track doesn't have a twist in it. all of these can cause derailments, especially with light cars.

[richg]

If you are going to start messing with wheelsets, get a dial caliper and truck tuner. Reboxx and NWSL sell wheelsets with different lengths.
I suspect the OP has track issues.
It would be a good idea to check all the rolling stock and set up the truck for three point suspension.
I have done that many times.

http://modeltrains.about.com/od/customizingmodeltrains/qt/Fixing-A-Wobbly-Train-Car.htm

For electrical, I suspect the OP will have to do some research, depending on exactly what he wants in the rolling stock. I suspect passenger car lighting. For someone new at this, it can be a challenge.
There is, DIY or purchase stuff on the market now.
DIY. metal wheels, Kadee #5 coupler springs cutin half and flexible #30 wire.

Rich

[richg]

Pickups and metal wheels.

http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/

Rich

[jbrock27]

Yes indeed, Intermountain wheelsets are very nice.  I have some 36" ones.

[jbrock27]

Question RichG: if KADEE wheelsets are made of sintered metal, how come they are not magnetic like the sintered metal wheels are, that Athearn Blue Box locomotives are made with?

[richg]

Question RichG: if KADEE wheelsets are made of sintered metal, how come they are not magnetic like the sintered metal wheels are, that Athearn Blue Box locomotives are made with?

No idea on the manufacturing process.
Kadee advertise them as non-magnetic probably because of the uncoupling magnets that are place between the rails for the Kadee couplers.

Rich

[jbrock27]

Thanks. 
Not sure what the 2nd sentence of your answer is supposed to mean, but they must be sintered then with a different metal than iron.