Gapping Track with 44597 for basic sidings and "parking" locomotives

[jmbergland]

Hi -

I am somewhat newer to this and am having a bear of a time getting my head around the wiring I need to create a simple "gapped" siding section where I can park a DC Locomotive.  I am running all straight DC Locomotives and will have a staging area which includes one or two turnouts so that I can simply "park" trains and then bring others onto the mainline without needing to derail / decouple other trains, etc.   Based on what I am reading, I can use Bachman's 44597 - insulated Gap Track to create the non-powered section(s) for parking.  (Yes, I understand this is also an expensive way to go, as Atlas sells insulated rail joiners, etc. for a fraction of the cost.   Anyhow, supposing I go with the Bachman 44597 - does this include any wiring with it? I am assuming it does include a red power wire, but am hoping someone can confirm.   Next, I understand that I need to rig a simple controller (SPST) such as the Atlas 205 between the gapped section and the power pack. This will then allow me to turn on / off power as needed.   I am assuming that I will need some wiring for all of this, that Bachman does not provide any of this.   

Any help or recommendations on which parts / wire gauge, etc I will need are very helpful.   Thank you. I expect to be ordering the parts I need through Hobbylinc.   Thank you.

[bapguy]

That's an expensive way to go as this track is meant for a DCC auto reverse loop and does not come with the wire. You could use part # 44510 a 9" straight with power terminal. Just cut a gap in one rail with a cut off disc in your motor tool. use an OHM meter to find out which wire goes to that rail. That wire goes to one side of a SPST switch. The other side of the switch goes to the power pack Use 20 or 22 gauge wire for this. Or use a standard 9" straight cut the gap in one tail and solder a wire to the rail that's gapped. If you use regular power  terminal track, make sure the gap is past where the feeder wire is.  Joe

[jward]

if you are going to use the atlas wiring components to control your track blocks, I'd suggest you use the #215 selector instead of the #205 controller,    the reason is simple.    the selector has a and b input terminals, so you can connect a second power pack to it and run two trains at the same time.   the connector has only one set of input terminals.   

even if you don't want two power packs right now, it is better to make provisions for it because in the future when you do get that second power pack it will save the hassle of replacing the components and rewiring everything.

[jbrock27]

jbl, to Jeff's point of setting up with the idea of the future addition of a 2nd power source, if you don't like the look of or the space the Atlas selectors take up, you can use SPDT toggle switches to accomplish the same thing.  These might be an option to consider, especially if you are set up with a Control Panel as they take less space.

[jward]

if you do decide to go with spdt toggle switches, make sure they have a center-off position. that way, you can kill power to that block, rather than passing it back and forth between power packs.

[jbrock27]

Thank you Jeff for pointing that out (On-Off-On).  I probably should not have assumed jbl would know that not all SPDT toggle switches are created equal even though he mentioned looking for something with an "off" feature.

[electrical whiz kid]

Hi;
there is, in Kalmbach's "libarary", a good little book for wiring railroads.  If you have never done wiring before, it is a good book to grab the whole concept of what you will be doing.  I don't know the title, offhand, but have seen it.  Being a master electrician, I (should...) know a little about wiring, but boy, sometimes that doesn't mean a randy rat's hinie, because, I can get myself into unbelievable messes too.

Rich C.