Mixing brands

[Jerrys HO]

Big D,
You are probably right about pushing my luck . My comment about Myth Busters was actually supposed to be taken jokingly.
Although I have run that many on the EZ Command, I can say I did not do it all the time. Sometimes I forget how many live loco's I have on the track.
Anyone who can keep up with that many loco's running is gifted. I have trouble keeping up with 2 .
Since I have added the 5 amp booster, I still don't run that many but I do have a habit of leaving some parked without muting or turning power off to the siding.
Bringing that up, I have to say that  the only drawback to the Sound Value loco's is not having the start up feature as most do complain about causing a drain in power unless removed from the track or parked on a switched siding.

Irbricksceo,
I realize the EZ Command is a low amperage system and I am stretching it a bit when I do it but I did not have any signs of power loss when I did it.
I will say or I should have said, it is not recommended to run that many but has been done luckily without  any devastating consequences.

Jerry

[Elnovato]

So it seems that with EZ Command 3 locos tops. any recommendations for a good value starter power booster (to connect switchers too)?

[Elnovato]

I looked up the coupler height gauge (Kadee) and they have one that comes with a No 5 coupler and #58 scale coupler, and another insulated multi purpose with the 148 whisker coupler and the 158 scale whisker coupler.... Which one should I get?!?!

[Irbricksceo]

\
Anyone who can keep up with that many loco's running is gifted. I have trouble keeping up with 2
Jerry

What, you mean you don't have 10 arms and eyes on the back of your head?


Elnovato, There is a 5 amp booster available from bachmann, that is more than enough to power a layout of small to mid size given the EZ command's loco limit and the whole "I can't control that many anyway". Jerry is right in that dead Sidings are a good way to further reduce power draw, and Is something I've been planning to add in when I finalize my trackwork (I know what the layout will look like, College took all my money is all)

On sound value, you will have all the functions (there are only 8 I believe including mute) However what you will not have is CV programming, a feature the EZ command lacks. This means no reassigning buttons, changing chuffrates/volume, and no whistle selections. I hear that there are "Program only" Systems around and although I don't possess any as my NCE unit does it for me, I'd look into them If you want to get into CV adjusting, something I've found to be very useful in fine tuning decoders plus reseting when somethign goes wrong.

[rogertra]

I have the NCE DCC system that can, I gather, call back up to five or maybe more locos?

I don't know exactly how many as I rarely use the call back function.   Although my railroad has through staging, in other words, it's a big 10 x 30 foot loop, for now, I don't run trains that way and only ever have one "locomotive" running at a time, it's prototypical and as many of you know, I'm a prototype freak.   

Remember, "locomotive" in the real world also means a "consist" so my "locomotive" can be three diesels pulling a 20 car train, though two diesels in the normal freight train consist.

Yes, I must admit, that if I'm working at my work bench, it's not unknown for a train to be orbiting the room.

However, I have a friend who has a large, 20 x 50 foot, single track, point to point (no loop, just return loops at each end) railroad in his basement that is single track and he can sometimes have three trains running at once, in opposite directions.  He has no automation and how he does it is beyond me. 

Cheers

Roger T.

[Elnovato]

What about the coupler height gauge?

[Jerrys HO]

El,

That is the gauge you want. It comes with instructions on how to use it. Most use #5 or I believe #158 or 148 which is the same as the #5 just has whiskers. Somehow I prefer the #5's as the whiskers are very thin compared to the #5  gearbox spring.
I mounted mine on a separate piece of track long enough for my longest car and pull it out anytime I have a problem with derails.

[Jerrys HO]

What, you mean you don't have 10 arms and eyes on the back of your head?

I think every modeler would love to have these qualities. Sure would be easier when I am under the table wiring.

[rogertra]

I mounted mine on a separate piece of track long enough for my longest car and pull it out anytime I have a problem with derails.

Jerry.

I have the same thing, only mine is a 34 inch piece of flex fixed to a three inch wide piece of ply with two 2 x 4 blocks screwed to the bottom as feet with a insulated coupler coupler height gauge on both ends.  This is also my programming track so also have the required NCE throttle and computer interface input/outputs attachments (For JMRI) fixed to the side.  Hence the 2 x 4 blocks as feet underneath for clearance.  It's a really handy tool.

Cheers  

Roger T.

[Doneldon]

I looked up the coupler height gauge (Kadee) and they have one that comes with a No 5 coupler and #58 scale coupler, and another insulated multi purpose with the 148 whisker coupler and the 158 scale whisker coupler.... Which one should I get?!?!

Elno-

It doesn't matter, at least very much. The #5 coupler is sort of the all-purpose Kadee coupler because it can easily fit or be fitted to just about anything. However, the #5 is larger than scale size which some modelers find objectionable. The other three couplers are "scale," meaning they are closer to the size the couplers would be if they were built to exact scale. They all work with one another although I think perhaps the scale couplers might play together better than they play with the over-size couplers, and vice-versa. I have so many cars and locos with the larger Kadees that I stick with those. If I were starting in the hobby today I suppose I'd go wit the scale couplers.

The other considerations in coupler selection are the range of different Kadees for special applications and how well the Kadees work with other brands of couplers. The regular Kadees offer a wider variety of special couplers for specific purposes than do the scale Kadees. That means you can save a lot of work by using a special Kadee instead of modifying your rolling stock for a #5. It's not like that will come up daily but when it does, a special Kadee can be very welcome.

In regards to compatibility with other manufacturers' couplers (like Henry, Bachmann, etc.) I have to extrapolate a little. Model Railroader studied knuckle coupler compatibility a few years ago. If I recall correctly, they used the regular Kadees, not the scale ones. MR found that all brands of couplers worked pretty well together though the best performance was when couplers from the same manufacturer were used. The only place they found difficulties was when trying to connect different makes of couplers on curved track. The thing is that, to my recollection, they didn't test the scale Kadees with the other brands. If I am correct, that means that their general finding that most couplers work pretty well together overall can't be generalized to include how well scale Kadees work with other makers' couplers.

The bottom line is that the Kadee coupler gauge you choose probably doesn't matter very much. By a small margin, select the #5 if you expect to mainly use the larger Kadees and one of the others if you think you'll be using the scale ones. You can use any of the Kadee gauges to position other brands of couplers so that's not an issue.
                 -- D

[ACY]

It doesn't matter, at least very much. The #5 coupler is sort of the all-purpose Kadee coupler because it can easily fit or be fitted to just about anything. However, the #5 is larger than scale size which some modelers find objectionable. The other three couplers are "scale," meaning they are closer to the size the couplers would be if they were built to exact scale. They all work with one another although I think perhaps the scale couplers might play together better than they play with the over-size couplers, and vice-versa. I have so many cars and locos with the larger Kadees that I stick with those. If I were starting in the hobby today I suppose I'd go wit the scale couplers.

The #148 coupler is not scale, it is actually the same size as a #5 except it has built in centering springs to replace the gold drop in piece used in the draft gear box. The other two are scale head like you said.

[Doneldon]

ACY-

You are absolutely correct. I meant to list the #5 and #148 together. Maybe I should fact check more thoroughly.

                                                                                                                                                              -- D

[Elnovato]

In case you were wondering, I bought extra Bachmann couplers (overshank/medium) and the random uncoupling of the Bachmann F7 loco with the other brand that starts with Ath passenger cars was resolved.