Empire Builder Engine

[jon65]

Just purchased and put together an Empire Builder set.  The back hook up on the engine comes unlatched from the other cars.  But, the other cars stay latched together.  Do I need to have the latch replaced or what can be done to fix the problem?  Also, looking for a dummy engine and a caboose for the same set?  I know that other models have sound, is that possible with this set?

Thank you,
John

[jbrock27]

Does the "latch", which is a coupler, have a tiny spring in it?  Does the coupler that unlatches, look exactly as the other coupler, on the other end of the locomotive?

[Doneldon]

John-

There aren't a lot of dummy locomotives sold anymore, and the few which are available tend to cost too much. For example, The Favorite Spot, a bricks and mortar hobby shop which sells on eBay, has a powered Great Northern F7 A+B set for $60 Buy-It-Now plus $9 shipping. They have the same thing on an auction which closes in two days and a current bid of $10. Their dummy F7-B is $38 B-I-N with shipping. The Favorite Spot, by the way, has an excellent record with eBay and is well regarded by most of the people on this board.

If you want to run an ABA or ABBA set but don't want to burden your power supply with four motors, it's very easy to remove the motors or disconnect them from the drive train so the trucks freewheel. Then you'll retain the option of returning them to powered service in the future.

Dummy locomotives used to be quite common and inexpensive compared to powered models. Changes in manufacturing processes and the structure of the model railroading industry, however, have in turn changed the economic picture to the point that dummies have become something of an inventory problem, as well as a bad financial bet for manufacturers and retailers. Another caboose shouldn't be hard to locate; many manufacturers make them and you don't have to stay with just one brand.

Jon gave you some good information about your coupler so I won't repeat it. However, you might also have a problem with your coupler mount. If the knuckle spring on your coupler is there, check to make certain that the head of the coupler is at the exact same height as the couplers on your other rolling stock, and that it moves freely from side to side. Let us know if you have problems there and we'll try to help you straighten it out.

You can add sound to your locos but you would need to upgrade to what is called DCC (Digital Command Control) to make full use of it. Decoders for DCC are reasonably inexpensive and fairly easy to install. Sound decoders, on the other hand, will run about $75-100 and be a complicated installation, especially the speakers. There just isn't a whole lot of space inside of an F7 once you fill it up with a motor, gears, IC board and lights. You could, of course, put a sound decoder and speaker inside of a dummy loco but you would have to remove the motor, not just disconnect its drive shaft. And, you'll need a DCC system which will run at least $80 on eBay for a very no-frills, entry-level Bachmann EZCommand. It would be far better to look at the Bachmann Dynamis or a starter set from another manufacturer so you have room to grow and the ability to really take advantage of what DCC has to offer. Please let us know if you'd like to learn more about DCC before you make a significant investment, and we'll try to help.

Welcome to the hobby and to this board. I can promise you that model railroading is a richly rewarding activity which will teach you many, many skills and introduce you to some great people.
                                                                                                                                                                       -- D