EZ track turnouts

[8stargazer]

I'm building my layout with Bachmann EZ track and pretty well have the track laid.  I have a few elevations to finish as well as a tunnel.  I have two questions:

[1] On the EZ track turnouts 44561 & 44562, the switch unit itself that the user actually depresses to actuate the switch mechanism ---  Are they capable of 'pairing' together?  By this I mean only for the red feeder wire that supplies power.  As far as the switching goes, I will want them to remain independent.  They will join together on the sides, but I didn't want to try without consulting experienced modelers first.

[2] Once I get everything where I want it, I was thinking about fastening the track permanently.  Would glue here and there be sufficient?  I notice the tiny little holes at each end & center of the ties, but didn't want to deal with that. 

Any advise/suggestions are always appreciated.

Lonnie

[ebtnut]

Gazer:  Go over to the General Discussion area and read through the Attaching Track item for some thoughts and ideas on attaching your track.  The Bach-man himself suggests using double-sided carpert tape, for instance.

[8stargazer]

Thanks ebtnut:  I'm leaning toward the adhesive caulk idea since it would be relatively simple to do.  I'm in construction so I'm pretty adept with caulk from time to time. 

Lonnie

[Doneldon]

Star-

If you use caulk or construction adhesive, make sure it is plastic safe; many aren't. Liquid Nails for projects is okay as are most caulks.

I'm a little uncertain about what you are asking in your first question but I'll give it a shot. You can gang the electrical switches which control your turnouts by plugging them together side-by-side. That means you'll only need one power feeder for the electrical switches as long as they will all be in one place rather than scattered around the layout near the turnouts they control. If you want to localize your electrical switches, run a second power buss around your layout and feed the individual electrical switches from that. You must have three wires from each electrical switch to each turnout if you want independent control. You can control more than one turnout with a given electrical switch, for example if you want to throw both turnouts in a crossover with one electrical switch. However, you need to be sure that your power source can handle the surge required to throw multiple turnouts simultaneously. Two usually work without problems but multiple switches, such as lining incoming trains to an arrival track in a yard, can overwhelm some power supplies. In that case, you can get a more powerful power supply or use a capacitive discharge circuit which basically stores up a quantity of electricity and then sends all of it out in one bolus sufficient to operate all of the switch machines.   
                                                                                                                                                                                           -- D
 

[8stargazer]

Thank you once more Doneldon.  I suppose my question wasn't worded properly but you did answer it.  All I wanted to do was have one power feeder to control the two turnouts.  They will be operated independently.  I simply wanted to keep the wiring to a minimum.  I have a place that is convenient to operate from.  If you remember the layout that you've advised on that is posted in the General Discussion, I only have on open end on the layout.   That's good to know.  I assumed one could plug them together since there is a male/female pin each side of each switch.

As far as adhesive, I will use DAP in the hand held squeeze tube.  It's pretty benign and it is an adhesive based caulk.

Lonnie

[8stargazer]

I did some research on the site and found in some older posts that I'm not the only one having difficulty with EZ track turnout issues. 

I've been searching youtube to learn how to file down the points since I'm certain that is the main problem from what I've read.  I haven't found an adequate video as of yet.  Perhaps one of you can steer me in the right direction.

I'm traveling this weekend and think there is a hobby store where I'm going in order to find a NMRA standards gauge.

Thanks ahead of time

[Doneldon]

Lonnie-

You are absolutely correct that Bachmann turnouts have been troublesome but Bachmann isn't alone in this regard; I've seen or heard of turnout problems with every manufacturers' turnouts. Some are better than others. Bachmann is at least as good as most others.

I think it's fair to say that turnouts are the track component most likely to be problematic simply because they have moving parts and narrow, unforgiving tolerances. Throw in that many of the cars moving over them have wheels out of gauge or not running true and it's easy to understand how modelers get so frustrated. And we create problems ourselves, either by throwing manual turnouts too forcefully or by not throwing them forcefully enough so they aren't tight to the stock rails. I know a number of modelers who use remote turnouts exclusively in order to have consistent throws.

As for adjusting turnouts with a file, the main thing to remember is to never file the sides of the points which contact the stock rails. Theoretically it's okay to do it but in practice it can lead to tiny open spaces between the stock rails and points which slim wheel flanges pick and derail. Rather, file the non-contact sides of the stock rails to sharp points so you can slide your fingernail across the contact spots without feeling anything. You can also file a very shallow depression on the inside edges of the stock rails' railheads so the ends of the points have a place to nestle into, making it harder for wheel flanges to pick the points. Don't overdo it, however, or you'll introduce gauge problems. It can also be helpful to minimally taper the tops of the points so the flanges don't actually contact the points until they have already slightly overlapped them. (This is easier to see than say.)
                                                                                                                                                                                        -- D
     

[Tammo]

Don't know if it's too late, but I would not recommend glueing down the track.  I have a layout with about 180 feet of E-Z Track and I used small nails to hold the track in place.  I have had numerous reasons to lift the track and do slight adjustments or other changes.  The nails are easy to pry out with a screw driver, glue would be nearly impossible.  I also found that E-Z Track is horribly noisy.  I am in the process of lifting all 180 feet of track and installing cork under it to deaden the noise.

[Doneldon]

Tammo-

In my experience cork isn't a great sound deadener. The foam which is used as a seal between a foundation of a (real) house and the sill plate seems to work a little better, without raising the track another couple of scale feet above the surrounding terrain.

                                                 -- D

[Terry Toenges]

I use rubberized shelf liner with the holes in it. It comes in different colors and isn't too expensive.