EZ Command and remote turn out

[tim2009]

Hi folks.  I just purchased the Digital Command Train set and the expander set.  I notice there is a remote turn out in expander set.  I didn't find any information in how to connect remote turn out to the Digital Commander.  Is it possible to use those remote turn out or I need to get the DCC turn out?  This is my first train set and I was hoping to set it up for my kids for the holiday.  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

[Doneldon]

Tim-

I believe the turnout in the expansion set is a non-DCC remote turnout. Your DCC system will not control it without some changes. It would be easier and cheaper to find another power supply like an old power pack or a wall wart from a cell phone or some other expired low-voltage device. You are looking for about 12-25 volts at about an amp. Either AC or DC will work. Connect the output from your low-voltage device to the two wires which enter the electrical switch for the turnout, and the switch to the turnout with the provided three wire cable. Then you can operate trains with the DCC system and the turnout (or multiple turnouts if you purchase more, just gang them onto the right side of the first electrical switch and connect the three-wire cables) with your auxiliary power supply.

Operating turnouts with your DCC system will mean either purchasing DCC turnouts or finding a DCC accessory decoder which you can use to run your existing non-DCC remote turnout. That will require some surgery and a bit of a hassle. I'll predict you'll do better in the long run sticking with operating remote turnouts with an auxiliary power supply, even if that means purchasing an inexpensive used power pack.

Welcome to the hobby and this board. I look forward to hearing about your progress. Good luck!
                                                                                                                                                      -- D

[tim2009]

Hello, Doneldon.  Thanks for the reply.  I have a few follow up questions.  When you say using a old power pack, do you mean I need to cut out the end or the tip of the power supply and expose the wire.  Then hook it up to the red wire.  It doesn't matter which one is positive or negative.  The min volts is 12 and max 24, is that correct?  Furthermore, I can also use a 12V battery and it doesn't matter positive or negative.  Is that correct?
Thanks again for the info, it really help!

[Doneldon]

Tim-

You will have to use bare wire ends to supply power to your turnout's switch, or the parade of turnout switches you'll have if you add more of them. The easiest thing to do is to use the two-conductor wire that comes with the turnout. Use the plug end at the switch and bare ends where you attach to the terminals on your auxiliary power pack (assuming you are using a power pack). If you are using a wall wart you'll have to splice the low-voltage two-conductor wire from the wall wart to bare wires on the end of the two-conductor wire supplied with the turnout, and plug the supplied plug into the port on the switch. You'll need to do something similar if you use a battery for power; cut one end off of the two-conductor wire supplied with the turnout and attach it to the battery. You are correct that polarity doesn't matter. If your turnout doesn't throw the direction you want just turn the three-conductor cable over at either the switch or turnout end. Usually the switch end is more readily accessible.

I hope I understood your follow-on questions correctly. By the way, please let us know how the battery works as a power supply. That's something we don't often see except possibly for LED lighting.
                                                                                                          -- D

[tim2009]

Hello, Doneldon.  Thanks again for the help.  It has proven to be most helpful.  However, after hours playing with the old power supply and different type of batteries.  I have not make any progress.  I just place an order for the Power Pack 6607.  Hopefully that will get the remote track going.  Thanks again and will let you know how it goes when I get all my supply together.  I also order 2 DCC remote turn out just in case this one doesn't work out.
By the way, the DCC commander train set come with a manual turn out but it keep derailing the train.  Is there a fix to that problem?

Thanks.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Tweaking the points on turnouts with pliers is a long standing HO tradition ! Some are better than others, but no one seems get it even close to 100%. Searching turnouts, derailments, and points should get you a few threads .

[tim2009]

Thanks for the tips on the turnouts.  I will start doing my research.

[Doneldon]

Tim-

I can't say as I've ever had the temerity to tweak my points with pliers. However, I've found that careful file work frequently yields significantly improved operational characteristics.

I avoid filing on the side of a point which makes contact with the stock rail unless the point is so bent that I haven't any choice in the matter. I do taper points by filing the side away from the stock rail. I also file the tops of points if they are higher than the stock rails' railheads. And sometimes I file a tiny "pocket" on the inside edge of a stock rail's railhead so its point has a little nest to settle into. That works better for me than bending the points with a pliers.
                                                                                                                                                 -- D

[Tammo]

I have a slightly different but related problem.  I have a layout with about 12 DCC On Board turnouts and crossovers.  They don't work properly with my Digitrax DCC system (they refuse to remember their address and only work intermittently).  Tech support at both companies point fingers at the other company so I've given up trying to make it work.  What I want to do is wire the turnouts to a central console to control the layout.  I have a spare turnout that I experimented with and I thought I had it solved.  After a few months of not working on it, I now can't seem to make it work again.  I don't remember exactly how I got it to work.  Should have documented my findings    

My question is, does anyone know what voltage pulse to send to the turnout solenoid?  I've tapped into the wiring between the DCC controler and the solenoid.  I've checked the grey, orange and brown leads for continuity and the ohm meter shows it as a short, as I expected.  So, the coils seem to be OK.

I would appreciate any help you may have on this.

[tim2009]

Hi folks.  I finally get my power pack to use with my EZ command set.  I learn the hard way that I should connect the switch to the DC side of the power pack.  I think I burn out two switches before I realize why it is not working.  I have 2 questions in regard to the remote turn out:
1. Is the switch only work one way?  When I slide the switch, it will move the track.  However, when I slide the switch back to the original position, the track doesn't move.
2. Is there a cool off period for the switch or turn out?  In other word, once I am able to move the track with the switch, even I manually move the track back, sliding the switch back and forward doesn't move the track anymore.  However, if I wait a few minutes or unplug the power pack, I am able to move the track again.
Can anyone who use the remote turn out with the power pack give me some insight how it should work?

Thanks in advance.

[Hunt]

Bachmann non-DCC turnout wiring and powering

Use the accessory AC terminals of a DC model train power pack^** to power the switch machine (solenoid) in the E-Z Track Turnout. This is the terminals labeled ACCESSORIES 16 V AC when using a Bachmann power pack and speed controller.  DC terminals of the power pack connect to the track to run the trains unless the trains are being powered and controlled with DCC system.

When using more than one turnout, you can connect the controllers (black slide switch) together and connect the red wires from the AC terminals to one turnout controller. The green wires connect from each turnout to its controller.

You line the turnout (move the rails) with the remote controller (electrical slide switch). You have to very briefly press down the controller supplied with an unnumbered remote turnout once you slide the switch to change the route of the turnout.   DO NOT hold it down or you will damage the switch machine in the turnout. It is not necessary to press down the controller supplied with numbered turnouts.


^** Instead of a power pack you can use  either AC or DC output wall wart transformer rated 12 to 16 volts output at 500 milliamps (mA) up to 1 amp to power the turnout. 

[tim2009]

Hello Hunt.  Thanks for the help.  Pressing down on the controller is the thing I didn't do.  It works great.  You mention numbered turnout, is that a different kind of remote turn out?

[jward]

numbered as in #4 #5 or #6.

much friendlier to your equipment that the standard ones, and a little better made as well.

[Hunt]

Hello Hunt.  . . .  You mention numbered turnout, is that a different kind of remote turn out?

tim2009
Example of two of Bachmann HO right turnouts

Remote Turnout – Right

There are two paths through each of these turnouts. The straight path is called the 'through route'. A  path to the left or right of the 'through route' is called the 'divergent route'. Notice the #5 turnout,  the rails of the 'divergent route' are straight passed the turnout's frog and the rails passed the frog of the unnumbered turnout are curved. 

Turnouts with a divergent route having curved rails past the frog are by definition not numbered while the ones with straight rails are numbered based on the angle of the divergent route from the through route.

[tim2009]

Thanks jward and Hunt for the reply.  I should have read more before I purchase more tracks.  I now know why it cost $5 more for the numbered tracks.  Thanks again for all the help.