Wiliams True Blast horn

[crazycop]

I have a Williams GP9 with true Blast horn.  The horn works in neutral but not while moving on the track.  Any suggestions?

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Exact transformer/control type?
General- If its an old transformer and uses a rectifier disk, consider retrofitting to diode, or build/buy diode based horn button. I find my old whistles don't like the solid state, and solid state "audio warnings" don't like the rectifier disks. Or, maybe your disk may not be at 100%, the contacts on switch may need a little attention, and some have resistance wiring too.
A way to build it, even automate it some- http://www.jcstudiosinc.com/OGaugeAutomatedBellAndWhistleController

[crazycop]

Thanks.  The transformers used are a MTH 750 and Lionel 90 watt.

[phillyreading]

The MTH Z-750 should work very good with your GP-9, I have an MTH Z-1000 and it works great with my Williams engines. Is your track clean and the wheels on your engine need to be clean too, even the center rail roller needs to be clean.
I mention this because many people neglect to clean their wheelsets or tracks.

Also what type of track are you using?
Myself I have had problems with Fastrack and electrical performance or should say lack of performance!
My track preference is old style tubular.

Lee F.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

Lionel 90w, which, made more than one(?). Newer style?
I think the 750 and some L-90w may not cut it. I think they might both be a chopped sine. Try it on a full sine transformer, if you can, to test. (any old style Lionel w/whistle button, Z-1000(?,I think), or newer "ZWs").
Have you attempted reversing the track leads?
Adding/removing/changing a motor capacitor might help.
Cleaned like Lee asked?
Non can motor.. I would clean the armature/brushes too.

[phillyreading]

Lionel 90w, which, made more than one(?). Newer style?
I think the 750 and some L-90w may not cut it. I think they might both be a chopped sine. Try it on a full sine transformer, if you can, to test. (any old style Lionel w/whistle button, Z-1000(?,I think), or newer "ZWs").
Have you attempted reversing the track leads?
Adding/removing/changing a motor capacitor might help.
Cleaned like Lee asked?
Non can motor.. I would clean the armature/brushes too.

If they have the older style MPC motor it won't have true Blast 1. It would have most likely just a horn.
So is there is a difference between the MTH Z-750 and Z-1000? I thought the only difference was wattage.

Lee F.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

I believe 1 or 2 MTH are chopped sine. I thought the 750 was one, but I could easily be mistaken. If I remember right it was covered recently on an O gauge forum off site, that Philly also frequents. If your lucky one of us will remember to look it up after diner.
Patience! Its gonna be a long one!

[Chessie1971]

The z750 puts out pure sinewave but when it goes thru the mth controller its chopped sinewave.

[r0gruth]

I have the following transformers with whistle/horn buttons;Lionel CW80 and a small starter set transformer,MTH Z 1000 and Z 4000.
I have locos from Lionel,K-Line,Williams and Atlas that have whistles/horns operated by all of the above listed transformers.
I also have other transformers used for accessories.
The locos I have date from 1946 to present.

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

The z750 puts out pure sinewave but when it goes thru the mth controller its chopped sinewave.

Chopped at the track. Worth seeing if an old transformer makes a difference.
My roster ranges from "electronic" trains, to air whistles, and E-coils too. I have a couple "electronic" misfits that only respond well to chopped-sine, one that only responds to a KW (or TMCC), another that blows its whistle every 10 seconds on Super O track regardless of transformer. and two PW air/wh. tenders that need the current boost from the old transformers. I have 3-1033s that will only work an air whistle or mech. bell when reversed. My American Flyer and MARX transformers drove all electronics nuts and didn't even have horns!. My prewar whistle button works on air tenders but not on electronic anything. One of my diode add-ins doesn't always get my air whistles going, but does fine on the new stuff. Point is quirky electronics exist. You may have a bad board, or a quirky one   

[wmwalker]

I am using a Z4000 for conventional mode and that is pure sine wave which works great. I also have two TCP 300 with two 180 Bricks which puts out chopped sine wave and they work as well no issues for the horn or bell on all my WBB engines.

[phillyreading]

I have a Williams GP9 with true Blast horn.  The horn works in neutral but not while moving on the track.  Any suggestions?

What type of Williams engine do you have? The number on the engine and the box and who makes it would help to solve your problem. Like is it a Crown Edition Williams or is it a Williams reproduction or is it Williams by Bachmann?

Lee F.

[John Sweit]

I have a new WIlliams 22109, 44 Ton Locomotive and I am operating on Lionel 027 track with a Lionel KW 190W dual side transformer. When I operate the horn lever, which works fine for the coal car whistle in my 1953 Lionel steam engine, all I get is a short burb from the Williams diesel.  Are there any wiring changes possible in the Williams to get a full horn?

[GG1onFordsDTandI]

I have a new WIlliams 22109, 44 Ton Locomotive and I am operating on Lionel 027 track with a Lionel KW 190W dual side transformer. When I operate the horn lever, which works fine for the coal car whistle in my 1953 Lionel steam engine, all I get is a short burb from the Williams diesel.  Are there any wiring changes possible in the Williams to get a full horn?

John, I definitely think you need a disk replacement (or retro fit a diode in its place), but check the switch for poor contact or lumpy grease too. If you have a multi-meter check to see if you are getting the voltage boost as well as the DC offset, the switch is actually two position during the lever swing.  I use a KW too, refurbished  years back. It is the only old transformer I have that will activate a modern whistle, and an old one too. Three 1033s fail at this now, so does my pre war Z, and American flyer 18b, both with a separate pre war whistle control box. Also note my modern transformers will not activate any of my old whistle tenders, and the AF 18b has had two TMCC sound units fry on it just running, no activation. (I have smaller, early modern stuff).
Whats going on? I don't know for sure, and have heard many fixes but no real explanation other than "buy this instead" which never worked out. I suspect use of chopped sine or expectation of its use on components, to be the evil behind it all.

While its on my mind.....Does anyone know the actual "name" of the Lionel grey plastic controllers with "power bricks" from the 90s? Its not on the control or brick. While good with modern sounds, a PW W/tender or large engine will cause  power fold back("modern breaker trip") very quick.

(check the internal rollers on the KW every few years too. They are about the only thing that will totally kill that baby before its time). 

[phillyreading]

I have a new WIlliams 22109, 44 Ton Locomotive and I am operating on Lionel 027 track with a Lionel KW 190W dual side transformer. When I operate the horn lever, which works fine for the coal car whistle in my 1953 Lionel steam engine, all I get is a short burb from the Williams diesel.  Are there any wiring changes possible in the Williams to get a full horn?

Don't change anything!  You just need to hold the whistle lever for three to four seconds to use it with a newer Williams engine. The older KW and ZW have a different type of whistle circuit in it and needs to be held in the on position for a few seconds when used with Williams engines or WBB True Blast system. Or try the whistle lever at around three/fourths of the way activated for three seconds.

Lee F.