16 wheel tender

[Irbricksceo]

The largest CNR Locomotives I could find were the 2-10-2 T-4's unfortunately, and they all had 12 wheeled tenders.

Canadian pacific had the T1 selkirks, 2-10-4's But once again they used 12 wheeled.

[NBDAVE]

Been searching but not have found any CN locos with the 16 wheel tender.

Rich

Thanks but I have been looking for days and have come to the same conclusion. Now to find what railroads did use the 16 wheeler. I know the Santa Fe did.

[Irbricksceo]

PRR had some, as did the Atlantic Coast Line. Not sure but i think UP had a few as well.

[NBDAVE]

PRR had some, as did the Atlantic Coast Line. Not sure but i think UP had a few as well.

Thanks. I'll look for some photos of these lines.

[richg]

Try searching Google Images for 16 wheel tender. I have done that a little while ago.

Rich

[NBDAVE]

Try searching Google Images for 16 wheel tender. I have done that a little while ago.

Rich

I have tried that and 16-wheel tenders, just about any combination I could think of. I think what I will end up doing is removing the CN logo from the tender and and go with A.T.&SF for both because there are photos of this combo. Thanks for all the help.

[ALCO1000]

Thanks for your help. Now I have a 4-10-2 with the AT&SF removed and a CN 16 wheel tender. Now I have to get another CN 4-8-4 for the tender and a Vandy tender and decals for Central Vermont. I'm trying to stick with CN and/or affiliate lines and CV is the only CN affiliate that used a 2-10-4

From Detroit metro area, we have a lot of history with them with the Windsor tunnel in Detroit to Canada COULD BE A GRAND Trunk also!

[NBDAVE]

AT&SF is the only RR that I could find that used the 16 wheel tender. Most others are 12 or 14.

[richg]

AT&SF is the only RR that I could find that used the 16 wheel tender. Most others are 12 or 14.

PRR had the 16 wheel also. Believe it was called a "Coast to Coast"
One example below.

http://www.trainweb.org/wnyrhs/tenderFrame1Source1.htm

The experimental PRR S1 had a 16 wheel tender.

Rich

[NBDAVE]

This is what the tender looks like, not very common in my opinion.
http://www.vectis.co.uk/AuctionImages/87/4720_l.jpg
I have the 2-10-4 and the tender but the tender has Canadian National logo. To me the easiest thing is remove the CN logo and I ordered some AT&SF decals so I will make it an AT&SF unit. Would like for it to have a been a CN unit but in reality CN never had a 2-10-4, Central Vermont did but they used a Vandy tender.

[Irbricksceo]

The ACL had them according to this article, not many but it is something.

http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1787&dat=19380408&id=oiAhAAAAIBAJ&sjid=hmQEAAAAIBAJ&pg=3988,611002

[NBDAVE]

Excellent find, thank you very much.

[Irbricksceo]

I think the biggest issue you are running into is that Locomotives in the North east were smaller that those on the west coast and, to a slightly smaller extent, the south. Because they tended to follow the general routes of earlier line, a lot of the area was limited in what it could take. That is why the NYC's largest Steamers (the Niagara's) which still required modifying some of the trackage (turntables especially) were smaller than the UP FEF, SP GS-4/5/6, NW J class, ect. Some of these railroads did make the changes to accommodate larger equipment, some deemed in not cost-effective, especially once diesels started showing up.

[NBDAVE]

I'm going to make the 2 units AT&SF but first I have to remove the Canadian National logo from the 16 wheel tender, what is the best stuff to use to remove it without damaging anything else? Nail polish remover with acetone?

[Doneldon]

NBD-

I don't know enough about the paint and materials used in your tender's construction but I caution you against using nail polish remover or acetone to remove the CN lettering unless you either have tested to see the effect of those substances on the paint and structure of your model or you know for a fact that acetone won't adversely affect it.

I'd start with less powerful stuff, like goo gone or even water. I light scrub with one of those fiberglass weathering brushes to cut any surface coating on the decals and some water might just take those decals off while leaving the underlying paint intact.

Whatever you decide to do, good luck. And tell us what worked.
                                                                                                                          -- D